Member Since: 19 Oct 2015
Location: Belfast
Posts: 131
2nd gear crunch
My d3 manual crunches 1st to 2nd . All others are fine.
But it only happens on the first change when I leave home. Once I've gone up the gears it doesn't do it again. Any ideas. Gearbox oil was changed about 3k ago.05 D3 SE
1st Feb 2017 9:15 pm
john watson
Member Since: 10 Nov 2011
Location: lanark
Posts: 957
Have a similar problem but only in cold weather. After the car has been running a few miles no problem. I think it is a combination of a high oil level in the gearbox and low temperature causing a high level of drag on the synchromesh. Also have noticed that going up the box from first to second there is a distinct movement to the left which I cannot remember it being there before! Don't know if it's all related. It also does it going up the box from first to second. Hope this helps but I doubt it
1st Feb 2017 10:24 pm
plocker
Member Since: 14 Mar 2016
Location: Preston
Posts: 828
Synchromesh has gone. Cheap part but expensive fix05 V8 HSE Bonatti Grey
1st Feb 2017 11:05 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
What oil did you put in?
I ask as my previous landrovers had r380 and lt77 gearboxes and crunchy 2nd gear synchro was a std feature with them, annual oil change kept them going and you could tell when it needed changing again, with the 380 I ended up using difflocks syn gearbox oil, absolute mutts nutts and worth the money.
2nd Feb 2017 6:29 am
john watson
Member Since: 10 Nov 2011
Location: lanark
Posts: 957
Oil in gearbox LR recommended. Reason I think oil level is high is topped it up to the filler hole not to the recommended quantity. This was after the breather pipe was replaced due to it becoming detached from the pipe on top of the gearbox. This morning the temp is 7c so no crunches and as I said when it runs a few miles no problem. Will see if my analysis is correct when Mikey changes all the oils at the next service in June.
2nd Feb 2017 8:51 am
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4405
I think it's quite common on manual D3's. You have to learn to hold the clutch longer and ease the gear stick into 2nd. It really used to bother me, but now I've 10k miles in mine, I dont notice it anymore. Not because I ignore it, but because I've got the knack now.
I'm sure I've read similar threads on here before.Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
Last edited by rrhool on 2nd Feb 2017 10:24 am. Edited 1 time in total
2nd Feb 2017 9:18 am
john watson
Member Since: 10 Nov 2011
Location: lanark
Posts: 957
First run of today. 9 centigrade no crunch up into second or down into second. O7 D3 63000 miles. Thinking now towards the detent spring arrangement. Anyway can live with it for now
2nd Feb 2017 10:08 am
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4405
john watson wrote:
I think it is a combination of a high oil level in the gearbox and low temperature causing a high level of drag on the synchromesh.
This gearbox is used in other vehicles as well. I think in the Discovery, the driven plate of the clutch is perhaps too heavy for the synchros, in what is primarily a car gearbox. Used in Jag S Type, and an Alfa(?)Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
2nd Feb 2017 10:31 am
Disgoeshere
Member Since: 06 Dec 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 278
I had a new clutch and DMF fitted last year, and I also changed the gearbox oil, Castrol fully synthetic 75w/90 no issues at all until the cold weather snap started now have notchy 1ST and 2nd gear changes.
I also have no issues when higher outside temp very strange.
Looking at LD’s info on oil from Difflock site it sounds bang on to me a quality oil not affected by temperature changes so going to give it a go.
07MY (8A) D3 2.7 TDV6 Manual SE
New oil pump, water pump, cam belt - DM
New prop, new clutch TVLR,Beanie Grille,Black & Silver Badges
All Filters, oil change,clock on dash,4x4 info,RLD Protector,silicone hoses
Front and Rear TRW low Dust dtec V8 brake upgrade,new oil sump
2nd Feb 2017 1:21 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4405
Will be interested to know how you get on with it. Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
2nd Feb 2017 1:24 pm
Erea
Member Since: 19 Mar 2012
Location: Munster
Posts: 1509
Following this with interest, mine is a '06 Discovery 270K KM. It doesn't tear the cogs but... First drive in the morning fine putting it into gear but after about 500m when I go to change down, at a junction I have to stop at, it's very hard to get into 2nd and then 1st. I'd agree with people describing it like trying to close a stiff bolt on a rifle. And then Perfect for the rest of the day. I'm going get the gearbox oil changed next week, is there any point changing the circlip on the side of the gearbox? Thanks E
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