Member Since: 14 Apr 2008
Location: Windsor - UK
Posts: 356
12VDC Power Conditioner C-Tek Multi XS 7000
Hi All
I have purchased some time ago a C-Tek Multi XS7000 to supply DC power to my Disco 3 when I'm using the JLR SDD, however the JLR program keeps on complaining that there is not enough charge on the battery and it aborts.
JLR requests a minimum of 12.5V, and the C-tek power supply when connected to the battery its supplying 12.20Vdc, and when not charging it provides 13.5Vdc.
Obviously the car is demanding power for everything that is on, but before you ask, I always turn off the radio, fan and lights!
Is there any way of adjusting the supply voltage, or is this a return to base type of job pls?
Thanks
Lucio
I'm riding a R1250GSA Triple Back
Previous love: Disco 3 HSE MY07, D4 heated Steering/W, D4 rear cluster, D4 extended roof rack, D4 grille & air grille, D4 rear bumper, colour coded arches + front bumper, side-steps, Webasto timer/ remote control, De-Tangoed Xenon headlights + HID, LEDs all around, reverse CAM (RR hack) + brightness, DLR LEDs, 3-click indicator, SatNav on the move, EGR's done, front/rear antiroll bar Polybush, gearbox pan/filter + oil mega-flush.
You really need the Ctek10 for prolonged programming, most of us that do this for others use a Ctek25
The 7 is set as it is, you can't adjust it, but giving the battery a full charge then using supply mode may help Altox GSM FBH controller thread
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29th Jan 2017 11:25 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
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Posts: 17932
It is all about amps rather than voltage and a D3 typically pulls around 18 amps with the systems on, but it can be more. If there are issues on the vehicle it can be considerably more.
JLR recommend a power supply in the 45 amps+ range with a carefully regulated voltage that is free of ripples. Experience has told us that a 25 amp Ctek is good enough 95% of the time. Your 7 amp charger is doing little to stop the energy drain but in all cases it must be in supply mode, not a charging mode.
You can maximise your chances of success by always starting with a fully charged battery - at least an overnight charge. Your Ctek can then be used in supply mode during flashing to slow down the drain on the battery, but it will remain a drain.
In my view it takes a 10 amp Ctek to be an effective battery support for flashing and even then you have to ascertain the health of the battery before continuing. When battery health is not known then a 25 amp supply is the minimum. When a vehicle has issues then the JLR requirement for 45 amps+ is the only option - especially in cooler weather.
Messing with flashing is easy. Coping with issues when things go strange takes more skill and experience to avoid the 2.7t paperweight.
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