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ChrisWAG
Member Since: 20 Jan 2017
Location: Langebaan, Western Cape
Posts: 6
  
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| Disco 3 unable to locate problem |
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Hi All. Firstly, great forum and very interesting posts on here. LR's in my opinion have always been one of the most capable 4x4 vehicles and the discovery also being the most comfortable 4x4 I have ever driven. Unfortunately, when things go wrong, it can leave your wallet thin and hurt your love for a LR. I currently have a 2008 Disco 3 TDV6 SE that has a niggle that we cannot locate and already spent half of what the vehicle is worth on replacing parts. At this stage we are on the verge of breaking up the vehicle and selling it's parts! The issue begins on startup, when it displays "engine system fault" and will not rev above 1000rpm. However as it idles and the engine heats up, you are able to rev it higher and higher until you have the full range of revvs that the engine can deliver, without displaying "engine system fault". To summarize, the higher the engine temp since cold start, the higher it will rev. And then all is well until you stop for a while and leave it to idle, then the "engine system fault" notice comes up again. By then, all you do is leave it in park, put your foot flat on the gas pedal, and the revvs comes up slowly until it is up to 4500rpm and then all is good again. What I have noticed is that when you want to select different terrains, it also displays a message about "special features not available" or something like that. When we try to read the error codes, it varies each time! So either there is a hell of a lot of stuff wrong, or something throws off the computer. I have read that some of these issues can be battery related so we attached 2 additional batteries in parallel to supply enough power (would this have worked though?) Any comments or ideas will be appreciated. The one mechanic that had the vehicle for about 6 months recons that it could be a wire somewhere that has rubbed through and now short circuits on the body, this he tells us after taking all our money for replacing parts, that according to him, would have solved the issue.
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 20th Jan 2017 9:59 am |
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Oswiperus
D3 Decade
Member Since: 02 Apr 2010
Location: Chelmsford, Essex
Posts: 1590
 
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Can you give us the range of codes you have been getting.
What parts have been changed/checked?
Have live values been looked at when starting from cold?
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| 20th Jan 2017 10:54 am |
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ChrisWAG
Member Since: 20 Jan 2017
Location: Langebaan, Western Cape
Posts: 6
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I will try to get the list of parts replaced and the codes from the mechanic. If I may ask, what is "live values"?
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| 20th Jan 2017 11:19 am |
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Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
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Live Values are what the various components are doing, pressures, flow, exhaust, charging readings etc. whilst the engine is running. These can be got from the OBD port with a suitable diagnostic tool.
Something there may give an indication as to what is causing your issues. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
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| 20th Jan 2017 11:57 am |
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ChrisWAG
Member Since: 20 Jan 2017
Location: Langebaan, Western Cape
Posts: 6
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I'm still trying to get all the codes, the problem is, they differ each time! So either everything is broken or somewhere a wire or component is causing havoc. What I can't figure out though, is why can I get it to run perfectly after a few revs to the motor but after it idles a bit (or is switched off) the system failure message returns and it's in limp mode again, at which stage I rev it up a bit and all is well again. Is it possible that the battery is shot and delivers enough power for starting and then after some revs it charges enough to let the vehicle function correctly?
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| 12th May 2017 11:21 am |
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ChrisWAG
Member Since: 20 Jan 2017
Location: Langebaan, Western Cape
Posts: 6
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So I had an interesting turn of events the other day. Despite the fact that I know the car goes into limp mode, I also know how to get it out, so I drove it and the suspension light came on and kicks the back into extended mode, but not the front and I also noticed that the passenger side front sits lower. When this happened I was quite a distance away from home so I drove it like that and got the typical "reduce speed...." and the suspension went down onto the bumpstops and I had to crawl home like that. First thought was that the front cross valve block maybe got stuck or there is a blockage in the air system to the front wheels, so I opened the valve block, cleaned it and installed again, to no avail. Then thought I would do the rear, but as it is a bit more difficult to get to it, I opted to fiddle with the ride height sensors instead. So I unplugged, clean the pins and worked the passenger side front height sensor arm like a clock arm, and no change. Then did the same with the driver's side rear height sensor, and magically the front end jacked up!!! Now, with the landy on normal height I swiftly pulled fuse 26 in the engine compartment fusebox and fuse 5 in the cabin fusebox so that the valve blocks stays shut and the air compressor pump doesn't start, and the warning light doesn't "bong" the whole time. By doing this, the special features are also turned off, so no terrain response. But.............., to my surprise, the landy hasn't gone into limp mode even ONCE since I pulled the fuses!!! This leads me to believe that the original problem is either with the terrain response or the air suspension. As one of the last fault codes I got read "terrain response CAN earth short" (or something like that) I will start by looking for broken wires from the terrain response module.
Have anyone on here experienced something similar OR have an idea of where I should rather start looking?
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| 9th Jun 2017 1:47 pm |
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Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
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Chris, you really need to get the codes read otherwise you'll just keep chasing your tail getting absolutely nowhere, which...............with the best will in the world mate, it does sound like that's what you've done for the last few months. 
These cars require some understanding and IMO, your own diagnostic kit will improve that understanding.
Buy yourself an IID Tool, remove any doubts and hopefully get your car sorted out sooner rather than later.  Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
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| 9th Jun 2017 2:11 pm |
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ChrisWAG
Member Since: 20 Jan 2017
Location: Langebaan, Western Cape
Posts: 6
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Hi Narpy, I totally agree, I need to get an IID tool which will make my life a lot easier. Up to now I've relied too much on what the mechanics tell me and I am aware now that I've been taken for a ride as they keep on telling me that each time they read fault codes, it differs from the last time its been cleared. Anyway, I will get hold of an IID tool and hopefully have some good news to post in the near future.
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| 9th Jun 2017 2:47 pm |
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Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1782
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Once you get the codes, you may find the engine light relates to O2 sensors that are sooted up/faulty or the heater wire to the sensor is dodgy so not heating the sensor
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| 10th Jun 2017 7:02 am |
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jonathan.day
Member Since: 10 May 2013
Location: surrey
Posts: 15
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This sounds all pretty standard, when you get multiple diagnostic faults, it usually points to corroded or snapped wires or bad earths. First thing I would do is take the battery out, swap it for a known good one (not a cheap one as the cause these weird faults too) dig down under the battery tray until you get to the transmission control ecu ( silver box with three plugs from memory) check one of the plugs isn't full of blue corrosion eating away a pin. Next I would check the main engine earth has not snapped off the block under the alternator ( it's too short and under too much tension) it can still rest there just touching. You can eliminate this with one jump lead from batt negative to block.next you need to expose all the multiplugs you can find under wings, engine bay, dash board, to look for blue corrosion. Like the other guy said what type of codes you get can help narrow down which system is being affected, it's all about interpreting the clues in all the diagnostic information. Good luck
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| 10th Jun 2017 8:26 am |
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ChrisWAG
Member Since: 20 Jan 2017
Location: Langebaan, Western Cape
Posts: 6
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I'm pleased to report that the Disco is now running smooth with no warning lights or errors!!! Finally. All I did was open and clean all the connectors to the terrain response selection module, replaced the battery, replaced the front left ride height sensor, and, located a snapped live wire that was supposed to give power to what seems like an after market alarm system's siren and this  could possibly have short circuited on the body. Fingers crossed, hopefully only happy miles from now on (this includes the typical land rover need for fiddling, but with each of these you learn something new about the Disco3)
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| 12th Jul 2017 9:22 am |
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Sloss
Member Since: 18 Aug 2013
Location: Aberdeenish
Posts: 1691
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All good then....
Happy motoring in your beautiful country ! Stew,
2010 D4 gone but I really loved it
Went back to Merc - C350 AMG
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| 12th Jul 2017 9:33 am |
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