Member Since: 01 Feb 2014
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 19
Coolant disappearing
My 2011 Landmark is in the dealer today because the coolant needed topping up twice between annual services (approx 6k miles a year) and then, 2 months after the last service, the light came on again. I booked it in as I've got 2 weeks left of warranty but they're trying to tell me that all cars need topping up from time to time and there's nothing wrong. I just don't buy it given my low mileage and the fact that I had no problems in the first 18 months I owned it. IMHO it must be leaking or I have a faulty sensor. I haven't checked how low it had got because the dealer has been topping it up for free.
Does anyone have any ideas?
12th Jan 2017 3:44 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
It should not need any fluid so the advice, which you probably guessed, is for you to start checking the level so that you know what is really happening.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 24 May 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1247
Some (mine included) do seem to need a bit of a top-up occasionally. Mine's never dropped enough to show a warning, but I do visually check the level when I have the bonnet open for another reason and if it's near the minimum I give it a top-up.
See: http://www.disco4.com/forum/topic152990.htmlMY2022 D5 HSE D300 - with extra nice bits added
MY2019 D5 HSE 3.0 SDV6 - sold to a dealer for a crazy price! - So good I bought another!
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12th Jan 2017 6:22 pm
Digsy
Member Since: 01 Feb 2014
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 19
Thanks. I was prepared to live with it but the periods between top ups seem to be shortening. I suspect they'll fob me off tomorrow.
12th Jan 2017 6:28 pm
Compusmentis
Member Since: 18 Feb 2016
Location: Effingham
Posts: 237
The earlier ones suffer with faulty level sensors. Is the level actually low, or is it just a warning on the dash?New gearbox & TC, 3 x front wheel bearings, belts changed, new oil pump, new battery, new rear prop, new front prop, new front diff, front arb refurbed, front cv boot kit, egr blank and BAS software patch, full rear suspension / drivelive rebuild, new front arms, LED trailer light fix, split charge.
Never had a 107, 90 or 127, but have had most of the rest!
The one place to look for a leak, is the plastic "spider" located in the Vee of the engine which takes the water to the radiator and has one of the bleed pipes on it.
They split down the friction welded seam. Usually it's just a slow process - though mine went in a big way and I lost 10ltrs of water. Being at 8300' made it more interesting!Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
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12th Jan 2017 6:58 pm
Digsy
Member Since: 01 Feb 2014
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 19
Well no surprise there - Hatfields deny there is anything wrong. As it's a worsening problem I'm now concerned as to what it will lead to.
13th Jan 2017 11:42 am
Davethegeo
Member Since: 01 Oct 2015
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 912
anglefire wrote:
The one place to look for a leak, is the plastic "spider" located in the Vee of the engine....
I can't see the "spider". There's a plastic air intake in the way so I can't see anything. Is the split on the "spider" obvious even with the air intake in the way?
However, there is a hose/pipe join towards the rear of the drivers side of the engine which is visible when the engine cover is off which is displaying signs of orange fluid leakage. That might be the cause of my leak which sounds identical to the OP.D1 300Tdi - gone
D2 Td5 ES (Alive remapped...mmm) - sadly gone
D4 2012 SDV6 XS - Stolen
D4 2014 SDV6 HSE - Shiny
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