Member Since: 23 Apr 2013
Location: Morayshire
Posts: 833
Robbie, Mikey are spot on, the very first thing you are taught in the pumps part of engineering courses in my case the Aircraft industry in particular Fast jets. Is that pumps only create flow not pressure it is the downstream restrictions that create the pressure, so if you bring it to the motor industry and racing engines with dry sumps the return pipework or galleries have to be twice plus the diameter of the flow galleries or pipework this is because you will have a negative pressure which could cause cavitation i.e. Stall the flow. Look at hydraulic rams that retract on gravity or weight the return pipe is much larger.
.......Having just finished my engine swap (came from an S Type jag)
daft question...I thought the LR version of the V6 2.7 had modified oil pump suction pipes to allow for the fact that the LR is a vehicle with off road capabilities which means it has to cope with the vehicle & the engine not being level....
your engine being an S Type....did you swap over the oil suction pipes ? (if they can be swapped?)
...this wouldn't (or shouldn't) have been a reason for the oil pressure to be slow in building.....BREXIT - done properly.
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14th Jan 2017 11:28 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
I believe he swapped the sump and pickup pipe.
14th Jan 2017 2:26 pm
The_Bay
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: wiltshire
Posts: 38
Hi, yes I swapped the sump etc and fitted a new landrover pick up pipe as my engine suffered major bearing failure and there was swarf everywhere which mean I couldn't garrentee the pick up pipe to be free form swarf so I opted to replace it for the sake of £45.
I did as the guys advised and let it run for a little longer, it made oil pressure and the engine stopped making the horrible noises lol!
Unfortunetly I must of caught the crank oil seal when fitting and it was leaking Badly.
The new seal says I must leave the engine for 4 hours before turning it over so for tonight I have left it there. I need a new crank bolt now anyway which I'll try and get tomorrow.
I have done a few hundred Oil pump casings now and never yet waited the four hours quoted for the seal to settle, what is more important is that you make sure that it goes in level from the start, If you cock it over to much it ill leak after, you have to keep it level as you tap it in.
Flack
17th Jan 2017 10:58 pm
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1420
And buy the Victor Reinz oil seal (AF stock it) because it comes with a plastic tool that makes fitting the seal a doddle without any damage.
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1144
The original problem of no oil pressure......
Immediately prior to fitting the pump it needs to be primed. Tip it upside down and pour a small amount of new engine oil in it, then remove the white spacer and turn the pump in the normal direction, this draws the oil round the pump to provide some coating on the lobes. Refit the plastic spacer, wipe off any excess oil and fit.
When starting, the oil light will go out taking not much longer than when you change a filter.
If the pump is dry, then it has to overcome the air leak and has a trouble providing suction to get the oil up the tube.
Regards
Steve
18th Jan 2017 6:43 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
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