DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Buyers checklist Disco 3 any advice appreciated?

MontagneM

Member Since: 04 Jan 2017
Location: Chamonix
Posts: 32

2008 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Unknown Colour

Buyers checklist Disco 3 any advice appreciated?

Hi, I'm just about to go and see a couple of Discovery 3s. 2008 2.7 se. Both left gookers in Germany, I live in France. One has 50k miles, the other 100k miles.

I'm not Disco owner but have read up a lot, major servicing schedule etc versus proven service history in order to negotiate, but I just wondered if anyone had any tips or tricks to test any weak spots.

Advice so far is too dab brake when driving to test for clunks in front suspension (full rebuild appx £1200 AFAIK)

Obvious oil leak signs anywhere a no no.

But what about compressor, turbo, différentiel tests.

Unfortunately I've not managed to drive one before so the array of knobs and dials will be new to say the least.

Any advice welcome and much appreciated

Cheers

16th Jan 2017 3:58 pm

sean 471

Member Since: 26 Apr 2011
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 2990

2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 Pursuit LE Auto Java Black

Ask for proof that the oil pump has been changed. Check the gearbox by driving and looking for fluctuations on the Rev counter and vibration while pulling away. Must have plenty of receipts

16th Jan 2017 5:21 pm

Dai-Disco3

Member Since: 30 Nov 2014
Location: Southend on Sea
Posts: 180

2009 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

I posted the following not long after getting my D3, hopefully of some help

So how about the following, all based on what I have read and some that I have experienced (!), not to scare you though Shocked

Air compressor, know area of concern, does it lower for access and then rise to standard height all ok, then go up to off road with no issues. Also does it sink overnight, sure signs of compressor failure looming or leaks (the rear cap fatigues and leaks). After fitting would need to be calibrated as well. Not a show stopper but a cost. When lifting, the back will go first then the front.
Does the auto box drive smoothly, with higher mileage, it can feel like going over cobbles, IMHO walk away, means that Torque Converter on way out, which usually means gear box needs rebuild, not cheap and if done properly no real change out of £4-5k, so walk away.
Test everything electrical, off road modes, all windows, seats if electric.
Check passenger foot well for dampness, sunroof drain behind glovebox can clog and dump water inside rather than out!
Check the brake pipes at the back, not the flexible pieces but the ones that go under the body, if these are corroded, it is a body off job to do properly, some 4 hours off, then 4 on, for a one hour job, so simple pipes, can cost a lot. However you can cut and join without body off, depend where they are bad!
All flexible brake hoses should have been changed at 6 years, easy job to do, parts in region of £100, plus brake fluid.
Check wheel bearings if at all possible, the front bearings are in carriers and are swapped as whole things, Land Rover parts are expensive

but cheaper alternatives are available.
If over 105k miles or 7 years the cam belts, there are 2, should have been done, if not they need to be done, cheaper than engine.
Also bear in mind engine swap is body off, engine can be north of £3,500 before fitting.
If you can hear or smell exhaust gases at back of engine then this is crossover pipe, about £500.00 to buy, and body off to fit!
Everything underneath should be dry, these don’t leak oil, if they do a seal somewhere is gone/going.
Check Parking brake goes on and off with no issue, should hold vehicle in drive at tick over, with no creaks, and come of cleanly when throttle depressed.
Check disc and pads, not a fortune to do, but they are heavy on them, remember it weighs 2.5+ tonne.
Check for signs of off road use, they are built for it, but the handbrake is in the drum part of the rear disc, so could be full of mud!
The compressor cover also can be full as well, which leads to overheat and death.
Check that the satnav disk is an original one there are some cheap copies of later maps, the last official one was 2011/2012. Anything later is a dodgy copy and can fail. Map disks are £120, but if DVD drive (under passenger seat) is toasted it is expensive.
When driving there should be minimal thumps from drivetrain and suspension should not bang, all the arms and bushes are prone to wear at higher mileage, not a bad job to do, so long as you can get bolts out, if stuck solid then you are cutting the arm off and cutting bolts in restricted spaces.
4 wheel alignment if not cheap approx. £120 with adjustment, there are lots of Caster, Camber and Tow settings.
Gearbox should have a fluid and filter change at 150k miles, this can be done two ways, original filter is integral to sump, so needs cross member out and lots of grief, or there is another kit that can fitted after original is removed and cut without taking cross member out. But the gear box oil is £20+ per litre, there are kits you can buy to do this kit costs around £250.
Lastly check all dash lights come on a go out, that there are no bongs when driving

If you want to look at parts prices a good site use one of the site sponsor, they know what they are talking about and will be reasonable/good quality.

Lastly keep reading everything on here, invaluable to frighten and the help fix anything that can/could or has gone wrong!!

I am sure someone will speak if i have missed anything glaringly obvious

16th Jan 2017 5:36 pm

MontagneM

Member Since: 04 Jan 2017
Location: Chamonix
Posts: 32

Brilliant, just great comprehensive information. I've just walked away from the first one. It was pretty clean, but had a check coolant level sign, despite the coolant being at correct level. Also the ride height selector seemed to not be consistent but this could be my inexperience with it. After starting up it was at normal height so I tried to set to off road height, it went up and into extended height mode, but then I couldn't seem to get it to return to normal height. I noticed on getting out the compressor was still pumping when I put my head under the rear wheel arch, not sure if this is normal or not. Anyway, no clunks when driving, everything smooth but when trying to change the suspension height it came up with "too hot will change height when cooler" or words to that effect... I'm still not 100% sure I was using it correctly but in any case too many little things and not enough receipts.

Any further tips on using the ride height selector?

Cheers

16th Jan 2017 7:24 pm

RutlandBoy

Member Since: 23 Oct 2016
Location: Northants
Posts: 93

2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Lugano Teal

I'd add if its a 2007MY to check the oil pump housing has been replaced with the newer stronger one, if there is no formal evidence of it being changed i'd take between £800-£1K off the price or vector that cost in. If its done then happy days if not change it immediately and avoid pretty terminal engine failure.

Plenty of it on here - including me

There are lots out there so take your time

They are great machines.

16th Jan 2017 8:22 pm

HughMartin

Member Since: 30 Mar 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 751

2012 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 XS Auto Aintree Green

I knocked up the following for a D4 so not 100% suitable for a D3 but I'm sure you can modify it accordingly.

Pre Purchase Inspection of 2012 Discovery D4

Equipment required
• Fault Reader
• Plug in Voltmeter
• Music CD
• Notebook and pen

If possible, get all codes read and cleared before test drive.

Carry out complete walk round checking for
damage,
paint flaws,
door/panel gaps,
wheel damage

Check correct operation of smart key buttons (all keys)

Note external optional extras

Tow bar fitted? Presence of red blank
Towing electrics fitted?
Stand on rear bumper and check roof
note VIN from inspection window nearside lower corner of windscreen

Open bonnet and check
General condition in engine bay
condition of bonnet insulation blanket
oil level and condition
coolant level and condition
Check condition of air hoses
check condition of aux drive belt
open batter cover and check visual,condition of battery and date stamp if possible
open 2nd battery cover and check brake fluid level and for contamination.
leave bonnet open

Check each wheel. Note tyre size, condition remaining tread, even wear. Check behind wheel for condition of brake pipes, disks etc.

Check presence of spare wheel - Full size or space-saver?

Operate rear offside passenger door and check for smooth opening and closing. Check condition of seats, internal trim, seat belts etc.
Check folding seat mechanism.
Check 3rd row seat base.
Check courtesy lights
Check rear ventilation louvred for free movement.
Check ashtray area and presence of Aux audio input.
Remove rubber mats if fitted and check carpet for condition and dampness.

Open luggage compartment doors and check for correct operation and closing.
Check security of upper door stay body mounts
Check condition of internal trim, sides, ceiling, carpets 3rd row seat belts
Raise 3rd row seats and check condition and operation.
Open cubby boxes and check contents, - complete tool kit and wheel nut locking key
Check operation of spare wheel hoist. Lower to inspect spare wheel and raise again.
Check operation of courtesy light
Check for corroded upper door handle retaining torx screws
Check for presence of load cover

Operate rear nearside passenger door and check for smooth opening and closing. Check condition of seats, internal trim, seat belts etc.
Check folding seat mechanism.
Remove rubber mats if fitted and check carpet for condition and dampness.

Operate front nearside passenger door and check for smooth opening and closing
Check condition of trim, seats etc.
Remove rubber mat if fitted and check carpet for condition and dampness.
Open glove compartments and check contents.
Open main glove compartment and check for presence of Document wallet complete with handbook. Check interior light.
Lower main glove compartment door to lowered position and check fuse box for non OEM wiring modifications. Check presence of fuse extractor tool.

Operate driver's door and check for smooth opening and closing
Check condition of trim, seat etc.
Remove rubber mat if fitted and check carpet for condition and dampness.
Check condition of foot pedal runners are commensurate with vehicle mileage.

Switch in ignition and check warning light illuminations.

Tachometer – 6 lights
Centre screen – 4 light along the top
Speedometer – 3 lights

After self test, you should be left with
Centre screen – Amber triangle and red battery symbol
Speedometer – Red Seat belt warning and possibly green “lights on” depending on vehicle configuration.
Check mileage and displayed outside air temperature

Depending on how long car has been unused, voltage should be not less than 11.5volts, ideally between 12 – 13v

Check all switches for correct function.

1. Horn
2. All external lights including brake lights and puddle lights
3. All window operating switches (drivers door and individual doors). Check for auto closing (May just need reset if not operating)
4. Radio controls including steering wheel radio controls. Insert CD and check.
5. Speakers all working
6. Heater controls (not heated windscreens)
7. Winscreen wash / wipers
8. Electric seat – full range of movement in all axis.
9. Electric sunroof
10. Electric mirror adjustment
11. Check for quiet operation of electric parking brake (EPB) with correct indication (Red warning on tachometer. No amber warning)
12. Check other instruments for sensible indications (fuel gauge etc)
13. Check rear view mirror and adjust

Start Engine.

Engine start sequence should start immediately if warm or possible after a couple of seconds if engine cold on cold day.

Battery light should extinguish. After a few seconds, voltage should rise to between 14-15v.

Listen for unexpected noises. Check under bonnet.

Check Suspension reacts correctly to raising and lowering commands
Check Remote operation of suspension using smart key (all doors closed and hazard warnings on – see handbook for further info)

When ready to go on test drive, with EPB applied, select “D” and check EPB releases automatically when accelerating.

Drive car normally and check for normal response from accelerator, brakes, steering etc.
At slow speed, dab the brakes firmly. Any clunks could be indicative of worn front suspension arms.

Check Command Shift steering wheel controls. Check for correct gear indication on centre screen.

Check full steering lock in both directions

When safe to do so, carry out emergency stop

Perform heavy acceleration and check for smoke from exhaust or sounds indicative of blown turbo hose. Acceleration should be sharp with little lag.

Check reverse gear

Check Low ratio, forward and reverse

If possible find a hill and check Hill Descent mode

Check cruise control

Check engine temperature gauge warming up and warm air from all vents

Check air conditioning

Switch off all heating and ventilation in attempt to induce misting of front and rear windscreen in order to check heated screens. If suspicion of windscreen not heating, placing a bag containing ice on the windscreen. This should induce condensation which should clear when windscreen heating put on. Remember front screen is split heating, LHS & RHS elements

On return to parking, check parking sensors (front and rear and cameras if fitted).

Using an assistant, check luggage compartment door safety interlock. It should not be possible to open the luggage compartment door with the engine running without gearbox selector at “P”.

With engine still running ( select “P”” and EPB applied), open bonnet and check for signs of leaks and unexpected noises.

Switch off engine. Voltage should remain at approx. 12.5-13v

If possible, get codes read again for any faults which were still “live” during test drive.

After approx 10 minutes since engine switch off, select oil level on service menu for correct level.

Check all paperwork.
• Service Record, receipts
• MOT
• V5C Registration document
Do VINs agree? Do mileage records check out. Number of previous owners.
If buying from franchise dealer, check all recalls are up to date.

Ideally, car should now be placed on ramp for full underbody inspection with a good torch. Check for leaks, corrosion (brake pipes especially) damage, engine/gearbox protection covers in place etc etc.

Using written notes you took during the inspection, negotiate the best price you can !

.

16th Jan 2017 8:41 pm

MontagneM

Member Since: 04 Jan 2017
Location: Chamonix
Posts: 32

That's awesome... Actually I dislike the use of that statement as it's so often no true, but in this case it feels like an understatement. Fantastic.

I'm sitting in a mid priced German hotel, realising why they haven't taken the "fine dining" world by storm, reading landrover manuals and Disco3 posts, hoping that tomorrow's offering is better than today's.

Someone who said "there are lots out there" has never tried to buy a left hand drive version in Europe, it's really a lot harder than UK, and the distances are far greater. However I'm glad Southern Rail weren't my transport provider, I travelled first class at 2 days notice, over 680kms for €140 with no rail card, in 4 clean, comfortable trains through two countries and arrived only 5 mins late. Fantastic, shame the car wasn't as good. Roll on tomorrow

16th Jan 2017 9:06 pm

MontagneM

Member Since: 04 Jan 2017
Location: Chamonix
Posts: 32

Meant to say, brilliant support from the "Ether" / "InterWeb", makes me want to buy one even more.

Much appreciated

16th Jan 2017 9:12 pm

NJSS

Member Since: 06 May 2009
Location: Catherington, Hampshire.
Posts: 10506

2016 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 Landmark LE Auto Waitomo Grey

MontagneM

Whatever year of D3 you are considering I would suggest that it should by now have had a new oil pump.

It may not be necessary, but:-

The engine will benefit from better pressure, particularly at start-up
Consider it an insurance premium; and
You will sleep better at nights

The alternative, the cost of a replacement engine, is IMHO totally unacceptable.

I have a MY 09 D3 & changed the oil pump in its 6th year & at 70k miles - early I know, but I sleep well.

NJSS Am I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.

2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.

16th Jan 2017 10:17 pm

MontagneM

Member Since: 04 Jan 2017
Location: Chamonix
Posts: 32

I took the plunge, currently on a German Autobahn with 7 hours on the sat nav with that feeling of trepidation you always get when buying a second hand car hoping this one is a good one.

Thanks for all the advice.

It's lovely to drive. (So far)

17th Jan 2017 2:01 pm