Member Since: 22 Oct 2008
Location: Here and there
Posts: 1645
Rear upper arm replacement
Looking at changing my N/S/R Upper suspension arm but need a good recommendation for a 4 wheel alignment afterwards in the North Somerset or Bristol area if anyone knows ?
Understand the bolts can seize inside the bushes and may need to be cut off , any other problems I may encounter or specialist tools needed ?
Oh , going to replace O/S/R Upper arm too if all goes well on the nearside
Cheers Guys
1st Oct 2010 10:12 am
bigdave Site Sponsor
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 9866
Hi Tawnyowl,
When I had mine done they did indeed have to cut off the bolts.
And hey presto none in stock so my indy got a mate to 'aquire' one from the line at Solihull.
check to see you can get some first matey.
Cheers.
Dave
All things shipping, storage, transport. UK and worldwide.
Member Since: 22 Oct 2008
Location: Here and there
Posts: 1645
Cheers Dave
Will get the bolts before I start , sounds like an angle grinder job then ? do you know where they cut through as doesn't the bolt seize inside the bush ??
Cheers
1st Oct 2010 11:18 am
bigdave Site Sponsor
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 9866
Sorry mate didnt see thewm do it.
All i know it was an angle grinder jobbie.
Apparently Ford saved 0.05 pence by not putting an anti seize doubri in the bolt.
Hope you dont need to. Maybe worth WD40 it now and leave for 24 hours.
Dave
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Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1144
An angle grinder won't fit in to cut off the rear bolts.
It's the rear upper bolt (next to the air spring). you can undo them & release the captive nut, but the bolt will be siezed in the bush,(woith bolt & bush turning together), then you have to cut them off with a reciprocating saw or similar.
If you are unlucky, sometimes the upper hub/wishbone bolt also siezes in the ball joint (the one that adjusts the rear camber. If this is the case, you have to remove the hub carrier, (by taking off the caliper, brake discs, handbrake shoes, handbrake cable & press the driveshaft out). Then you can cut the bolt out & press a new ball joint in the hub carrier.
Best to use aluminium or copper grease on reassembly.
Regards
Steve
1st Oct 2010 2:17 pm
Tawny Owl
Member Since: 22 Oct 2008
Location: Here and there
Posts: 1645
Cheers Steve
Cheers for the info , I would be changing the complete arm with new bolts , are you saying the bolt will undo from the captive nut but won't come out of the bush ??
From your experience , would you do this type of job on the driveway ?
Thanks again
1st Oct 2010 2:50 pm
SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1144
Sometimes it can go ok, but sometimes it's a real pain.
If you are mechanically minded & have a press & can fabricate some mandrels etc if you need them, then maybe.
You have to undo this one until the nut comes off, then cut on the LH side, between the chassis piece & bush.
This is the other ball joint that can seize (this one came apart ok)
Can get the spanner on the bolt but hardly any room to move the spanner to crack the bolt off
Had a lever bar under the spanner as it was too tight to undo by hand but still it would not budge !!
Then came the rain so I packed up and went in
Cant see how you can get any leverage on the damn bolt
3rd Oct 2010 8:46 pm
gruodiz
Member Since: 16 Nov 2011
Location: Klaipeda
Posts: 294
I saw a post (but can't find it right now) that guys use RRS' rear upper arm rear bush for disco which is totaly different RHF500130, it's a ball inside not two cones as in Disco. Disco part number is RGX500121.
BTW I use reciprocating saw which works just great to cut that bolt.
Can somebody confirm for RRS and Disco bush swap?
11th Oct 2015 10:28 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20713
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