pagoda
Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1923
  
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| LR3 front hub replacement - my experiences |
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I replaced my front right hub today due to excessive noise from the bearing. There are many posts on the site about this job, and I used this guide http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...cement.pdf in combination with the outstanding Brake Bible by Bodsy. A couple of observations for those thinking of doing this job.
First, whilst the general consensus is that this is pretty straight forward, I'd say that's only true for those used to working on cars where stuff gets stuck on, won't budge, and where people are happy using brute force and ingenuity.
This isn't a complicated job, and I'm used to working on old cars (mostly Mercedes, I add, where parts seem to be better made) where stuff gets rusted on, etc. On the D3, things are bigger, harder, more stuck and generally heavier duty, so be warned.
As noted in the guides, you will need some decent tools, including a good quality 32mm socket (I split one and ended up going out to get an impact socket) and a decent torque wrench (note that the hub nut torque in the guide in the link above has been revised down from 350NM, thank heavens).
The one area I got stuck on was extracting the old hub from the splined shaft. Before setting out on this job, I'd strongly suggest the purchase of a puller. I didn't have one, so had to resort to leverage using chisels between the hub and shaft housing. Bit of a  to shift - maybe 2 hours.
Reassembly is OK - the hub nut will pull the hub onto the splines eventually. I could have paid my local indy $250 to do the job. When the next one goes, I'll pay him. It's not worth the agro and a lost 4 hours to do the job. He has air tools, pullers, etc - all of the things I could have really used.
So, go into this with your eyes open. The guides are excellent. It's not hard, but even on my 65k miles 10 year old LR3 with zero rust and no corrosion on the wheel station/hub, etc getting the old hub off was a of a job. Not worth the couple of hundred $ saving.
FYI for those in N America, I got two Timken bearings and nuts shipped to the US in 48 hours for $250 all in. Pretty impressive service from LRdirect.com I've used them a lot and their shipping and prices are outstanding.
Thanks to Bodsy and the dude that did the hub write up, who's name, sadly, I don't know.  PAGODA
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 9th Jan 2017 12:38 am |
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af3556
Member Since: 12 Dec 2011
Location: Sydney
Posts: 27
  
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I replaced both L+R on my 2008 D3 last weekend, and fortunately the hardest part of the job - no salted roads here in Oz - was getting one belligerent wheel nut off (tip o' the hat to the tyre place and their love of impact wrenches). Once it was all undone, the hubs themselves came off with a light tap.
I followed the great video from Atlantic British:
There were three surprises waiting for me: first was requiring a 12-point socket to get the brake assembly off - should've paid closer attention to the video; second was that the Timken hubs DON"T come with new axle nuts, you have to get them separately, part RFD500020; third was that whoever did my brakes at some point lost the brake disc retaining screws (the torx screw, part SYP100241) and didn't bother replacing them or telling me about it...
An alleged 360Nm battery powered impact driver worked well to get the axle sockets off, and a 450mm breaker bar did the job on the nuts where I couldn't get the driver to.
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| 10th Mar 2017 2:11 pm |
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