[FIXED] Tailgate problems, microswitch and actuator working
Hi all,
I've managed to break my tailgate release, but not in a way that seems to make sense, so I'm looking to drawn on second-most-common failure experiences...
Things went wrong after I fitted a rear camera to my 2DIN Android head unit (D3 S so no headunit for GVIF). I took care to unplug the battery after the D3 went into sleep mode, and have the signal and reverse light 12v cable pair going from the passenger rear cubby hole/trailer fuseblock up inside the rear pillar, across above the headlining and down into to the tailgate light unit inside the door via the existing rubber cable guide at the top, exiting under the rubber seal with the camera screwed to the bottom right of the numberplate light unit.
Before I powered my new wiring I wanted to test my new LED number plate bulbs so re-attached the battery and it all looked good (bright !), except that the door release switch didn't do anything. I stripped the number plate light/switch unit down and tested the output from the door microswitch and it looks good (0.8 ohms when pressed, infinite when not).
The two button dash door release works just fine, and there's no difference in sound when opening the rear this way so the actuator seems good (will add in the manual release mod anyway, once those parts arrive), but are there any next most common failures I'm missing if the microswitch and the actuator are both good ?
Do I just have to trace the switch wiring back one connector at a time until I find the problem ?
Could pushing the extra video cable through the rubber cable guide at the top of the door have caused this issue ?
Thanks in advance for all suggestions...
Last edited by minimaltoo on 31st Dec 2016 2:20 pm. Edited 1 time in total
30th Dec 2016 9:23 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
Was the lower tailgate open at the time of testing the switch?My D3 Build Thread
I then closed upper and lower doors and tried again, and it still didn't work.
Both upper and lower parts were open when I initially re-connected the battery - is it worth closing the upper and lower and then removing and reattaching the battery after a few minutes of zero power ?
30th Dec 2016 9:57 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
A hard reset wouldn't cause any harm, just in case. Don't hold your breath though...
If either of the lower latches have not caught, the switch will be disabled. Check they have both latched tight
I have seen a few switch wires corrode and break inside the actual handle. Fiddly repair, but easy enough
Failing that, check continuity between the switch and connector under the pass seat
The issue was in the black connector block in the headliner, where a pin was misaligned and got pushed out of the connector instead of making contact, so the signal from the microswitch was getting lost:
It turns out that following the wiring logically in the daylight and not at the end of long day with a headtorch makes all the difference
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