Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
Testing LED bulbs
I bought a load of w5w led bulbs recently and stuck them throughout the interior of the D3 (blinding SMWMBO in the process). Today I came to the car and the battery was flat. I read the codes and one in particular stood out - interior bulb short to battery. So I have removed all the new LEDs and stuck the battery on charge. I have got my multimeter out in an attempt to identify/prove that one of the little LED beggars is faulty but my traditional filament knowledge is coming up short (poor pun sorry).
Can anyone tell me how to tell if one of them is faulty?
Thanks!
H
PS, they all light normally when 12v is applied but I'm concerned one 'leaks' when no voltage is present.-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
25th Dec 2016 9:33 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72775
I have had LEDs in the cars (D3 & D4) for a while, never had a problem. I get these faults but just ignore them. It might be the very low resistance of LED bulbs that make then car think there is a short.
25th Dec 2016 9:39 pm
hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
Cheers Derek, I know it could be a complete coincidence but it's the first time I've seen this fault and the first time since the alternator failed that I've come to the car and discovered it's got a flat battery... I've had the main lights in the cabin as LED for quite some time now it's just the 3rd row bulbs and puddle lights that I updated recently...-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
25th Dec 2016 9:44 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72775
Worth trying to change them out, it's just a pain to change them all out.
25th Dec 2016 9:48 pm
hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
Hence the question about testing them They're all on the table in front of me and I'd love to know how I can tell which of the is faulty without having to swap each one in and out and checking that the battery's not flat in the morning over and over again...
Happy Christmas by the way!-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
25th Dec 2016 9:56 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72775
Afraid well past my techie paygrade. Are they metal bodied? Someone had a problem with melting things with the metal bodied ones shorting out.
25th Dec 2016 9:58 pm
hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
They're the ones you had bought from Amazon if I remember rightly!-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
25th Dec 2016 10:00 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72775
Was afraid of that!!
Mind you I have had to swap one in the front overhead light cluster as they are just too bright to switch on when driving. Old dim filament one back in to save night vision.
PS These codes?
B1D13-15 (2E) Interior lamps 1 circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open
( at 155964 mi )
B1D14-15 (2E) Interior lamps 2 circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open
( at 155964 mi )
25th Dec 2016 10:03 pm
hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
Well, I've pulled them all out now so will just have to hope the charge overnight works and I don't get stranded tomorrow! On the other hand. if I do, then I know I can stick them all back in again!
EDIT: Mmmm, can't remember, I don't think a circuit was identified on the IIDTool but yes, something similar...-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
Last edited by hgrimmett on 25th Dec 2016 10:08 pm. Edited 1 time in total
25th Dec 2016 10:06 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72775
Original battery?
25th Dec 2016 10:08 pm
hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
You must be joking? Third... Exide.... but it must be three years old... or it's possible the fourth, the last one was collateral damage from the alternator committing suicide....-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
25th Dec 2016 10:09 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72775
Didn't think so but worth checking. Alternator output OK?
And if anyone that's techie wants to jump in and help feel free!!!!
25th Dec 2016 10:12 pm
hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
The IIDTool is showing 9v, as soon as I jumpstart it it's showing 14 so I guess it's OK?, I know it can go higher but I'm presuming this is OK? I think everyone else has gone to bed but I'm appreciating your company if nothing else -------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
25th Dec 2016 10:19 pm
bimblephish
Member Since: 21 Jul 2016
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 272
I don't see how a lamp could leak whilst it is not illuminated. If the interior lights are not on then there will be no voltage on the terminals the lamp connects to, therefore no current will flow, if there were a voltage across the terminals then the lamp would be on...
25th Dec 2016 10:21 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72775
9V is very low, 14v with the engine running is what the alternator is putting out and fine. Case of put it on charge, get it full then leave it for a while (few hours) to let the float charge dissipate then see what the reading is at the battery terminal (cheap multimeter). That'll tell you a bit about the health of the battery.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
They're all on the table in front of me and I'd love to know how I can tell which of the 
is faulty without having to swap each one in and out and checking that the battery's not flat in the morning over and over again...
