Member Since: 12 Jan 2016
Location: Surrey / SW London
Posts: 2136
Does this sound like i need new tailgate actuator - UPDATE?
I have an intermittent fault with the upper tailgate. It often seems to work, then occasionally stops. I notice it more when I'm away with work as i use the car daily, and open and close the upper tailgate frequently.
It normally works at least once after its been recently driven, or left alone for a while. If you try to open and close the upper tailgate frequently in a short period, it won't open. I cant hear anything, and the key button won't work either. If i start the car after I've tried to open it, but it won't open, it often registers on the dash that the boot is open, even though you cant open it, and if you try to lock it, you just get the beep and it won't lock. Leaving it for a while usually allows it to be locked!
I thought it might be the microswitch on the handle, but after a bit of reading, I'm leaning more towards the actuator. I noticed the other night that when it was open, and i continued to press the button, the sound of the actuator became weaker, and quieter - Almost like its reducing in power.
If the general consensus is its the actuator, does anyone know how to replace it. I assume its in the lower tailgate etc??
Thanks
Current: D4 HSE
Previous: BMW Z4M Coupe
Previous: Land Rover Defender 90 CSW Td5
Previous: Land Rover Discovery Td5 ES
Last edited by robpenrose on 13th Oct 2016 4:40 pm. Edited 1 time in total
Rob, chk receipts you were given, tailgate rings a distant bellPaul.
06 Java Black HSE - gone
12 Baltic Blue HSE - gone
15 Fuji HSE Lux
Club Biscuits, mmmm nice!
Traxide/Luna hybrid & Yellow top
Some Prospeed bits
+ some other stuff
Club N.E.R.D.s.
23rd Aug 2016 7:31 pm
robpenrose
Member Since: 12 Jan 2016
Location: Surrey / SW London
Posts: 2136
Will do. I'm away at the moment so will check when I get home, but thought it was the lower tailgate that was done, but I could be wrong.
It's intermittent which is almost more difficult to diagnose.
Nothing has snapped as it starts working again, so I'm guessing either faulty handle switch or actuator. Just want to try to get the right one, and not end up replacing the working part!!
Current: D4 HSE
Previous: BMW Z4M Coupe
Previous: Land Rover Defender 90 CSW Td5
Previous: Land Rover Discovery Td5 ES
23rd Aug 2016 7:53 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
It was the actuator on mine and same as yours it got weaker and weaker, theres some vids on youtube showing it happening on a bench.
23rd Aug 2016 9:17 pm
trainmanone
Member Since: 19 Dec 2014
Location: stockport
Posts: 366
mine did the same all the gbbins are in the lower tailgate iirc ,not an expensive item iirc
23rd Aug 2016 9:25 pm
robpenrose
Member Since: 12 Jan 2016
Location: Surrey / SW London
Posts: 2136
Ok, thanks for letting me know.
So yours got weaker the more times you pressed it in a short period, or over days and months?
Sometimes mine works once, then nothing at all. Hence why I'm assuming actuator and not handle as the first one generally seems to work, and it's the ones after where the issue happens!
Current: D4 HSE
Previous: BMW Z4M Coupe
Previous: Land Rover Defender 90 CSW Td5
Previous: Land Rover Discovery Td5 ES
23rd Aug 2016 9:26 pm
DiscoStoo
Member Since: 16 Feb 2016
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 164
Had the same probes on ours, would only open if you held down the lock/unlock buttons together, while somebody else treid to ope it. Got a new switch off eBay and fitted it this morning... Job done!
23rd Aug 2016 11:13 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
It's amazing the amount of guess work involved with these things but I think that's only because there's a few varying symptoms and a few varying causes but they are quite simple really.
If the cable end breaks off, no amount of button pressing will get the tailgate to open. You will hear a buzz as the actuator pulls against nothing, but that's all. Doesn't matter which button you press, dashboard, tailgate handle or key fob, it's broken, that's all there is to it and the only fix is to climb into the boot and start attacking it.
If the tailgate handle switch gets corroded, the switch may become intermittent or might not work at all but the two press dash trick should work every time as will the half release unlatch on the key fob.
Lastly, ( and this is where you sit with yours Rob ) if the actuator gets tired, it might become totally unresponsive, might work randomly or might work occasionally but do not rely on hearing the actuator get slower with multiple presses because the car has an inbuilt overheat method which won't allow for constant pressing so it might be possible that too many operations in too short a timescale will fool you into believing it's goosed when the problem might lie somewhere else, like wiring.
Usually, if the thing sounds tired after a couple of presses, it's probably time to rip it out and replace it but multiple pressing of the release will only make the car shut it down thinking it will overheat. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
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23rd Aug 2016 11:21 pm
robpenrose
Member Since: 12 Jan 2016
Location: Surrey / SW London
Posts: 2136
Thanks Narpy.
Guess I need to order up a new actuator then. I will run a few more tests as I haven't yet managed to get it to work with the key.
I'm guessing the lock/unlock button only works with the D3 as the unlock/lock witch on the D4 is on the door and is a rocker type meaning you can't press both at once.
Current: D4 HSE
Previous: BMW Z4M Coupe
Previous: Land Rover Defender 90 CSW Td5
Previous: Land Rover Discovery Td5 ES
24th Aug 2016 7:27 am
met
Member Since: 25 Mar 2010
Location: Herts
Posts: 231
Part number and how to please mine is mine identical. Sometimes if I start the engine and let it run a while then turn off it opens others I have to access the boot from inside the car . Mines a MY59 D4
4th Sep 2016 12:50 am
robpenrose
Member Since: 12 Jan 2016
Location: Surrey / SW London
Posts: 2136
Just following on from this.
I got a new actuator from Dan and it was delivered quickly. Best price i could find anywhere, so i would recommend going straight to him.
I went about changing the actuator following the "How to" guides on here which were great.
All going well, and new unit fitted. Just before i went to put everything back together, i thought i would just check it to make sure it was working. - Bearing in mind the old unit opened to let me get access to it.
Went to check it by operating the button on the top tailgate. Nothing.
Tried the key, nothing. Everything seemed dead. Checked connections, reconnected, tried old one, everything dead. Lower tailgate button still working ok! Checked the button on the upper tailgate and looked new inside the rubber. Nice and clean with positive switch click.
Took the lock assembly out and checked that. All "Seemed" ok from what i could tell. Just nothing from the actuator. Got annoyed, and had something else i needed to do, so though i would just leave it accessible, and close the car up, which i did. Shut the boot again, and tried it and dead still. I had to move the car back onto the drive, so i checked for faults with IID. This was from yesterday:
Anyway, no new faults, so i moved the car back onto the drive. I tried it once more and it started working. It worked for maybe 5-6 times then stopped again, and went dead. Left it for a few minutes then it worked again solidly for a few few more times.
Im in two minds whats going on.
1) The car needed to be started to reset something after the new unit was installed? Then when i tried it after it had been started, and it worked for 5-6 times continuously, the cars electronics cut in to stop it overheating or something. Read something about this??
2) Its still got an intermittent fault somewhere and i don't trust it?
What does the knowledge of the forum think? Working and put it all back together, or still faulty?
Current: D4 HSE
Previous: BMW Z4M Coupe
Previous: Land Rover Defender 90 CSW Td5
Previous: Land Rover Discovery Td5 ES
13th Oct 2016 4:37 pm
robpenrose
Member Since: 12 Jan 2016
Location: Surrey / SW London
Posts: 2136
Well no one replied.
I had another look at it this morning, and all seemed to be working correctly. So i stuck it all back together hoping its working. - It appears to be at present.
Nice easy job to replace the actuator anyway. £40 job done.
Current: D4 HSE
Previous: BMW Z4M Coupe
Previous: Land Rover Defender 90 CSW Td5
Previous: Land Rover Discovery Td5 ES
14th Oct 2016 2:50 pm
terryall
Member Since: 17 Jun 2011
Location: Whitstable
Posts: 1426
Mine tailgate packed up last night and the emergency two button method does not work so looks like a new actuator for me as well.Looks like another job to add to the list for Geoff. when he services mine this week.
14th Oct 2016 5:02 pm
robpenrose
Member Since: 12 Jan 2016
Location: Surrey / SW London
Posts: 2136
Worth listening out for the actuator by the boot, because if you can hear it, the cable end may have snapped.
I'm sure Geoff will sort it for you. I saw him a couple of weeks ago for a gearbox flush/brakes.
I got my new actuator from Dan at Duckworths for £40 delivered if it helps
Current: D4 HSE
Previous: BMW Z4M Coupe
Previous: Land Rover Defender 90 CSW Td5
Previous: Land Rover Discovery Td5 ES
14th Oct 2016 5:30 pm
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
terryall wrote:
Mine tailgate packed up last night and the emergency two button method does not work so looks like a new actuator for me as well.Looks like another job to add to the list for Geoff. when he services mine this week.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
) if the actuator gets tired, it might become totally unresponsive, might work randomly or might work occasionally but do not rely on hearing the actuator get slower with multiple presses because the car has an inbuilt overheat method which won't allow for constant pressing so it might be possible that too many operations in too short a timescale will fool you into believing it's goosed when the problem might lie somewhere else, like wiring.
