Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
How can this be an MOT Advisory?
The last two years, my rear track arms have been reported as showing wear with a recommendation they be replaced soon. Each year I jack up the rear end, support on axle stands and they get a breaker bar on the arms and push and pull to find some play or knocking - nothing moves, all seems tight.
What am I missing?
Before anyone asks if I am testing the right part, it is the straight bar in this picture, in front of the lower wishbone, goes from the chassis to the rear hub.
Click image to enlarge
2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
23rd Jul 2014 6:42 pm
Fifth Horseman
Member Since: 23 Oct 2012
Location: Lanarkshire
Posts: 217
This may help:
SSM41968
Discovery 3 / L319
Range Rover Sport / L320
Rear Suspension Toe Link Diagnosis. Chassis
16-Nov-2009 00:00:00
304000 Suspension System
Rear Toe Link..pdf (Rear%20Toe%20Link..pdf)
Issue:
Analysis of UK rear toe link warranty returns for either knock or free play has found that all returned parts to date are not faulty.
Cause:
Incorrect diagnosis of the rear suspension toe link
Action:
Noise issues (Knock, creak or clonk).
If a knocking or associated noise is suspected from the rear toe links, this does not always mean the part should be replaced. The inboard nuts and outboard bolts on the toe link should be checked for correct torque and tightened or replaced if necessary. The threaded geometry adjustment nut should also be checked for correct torque and tightened if necessary. Refer to GTR for latest torque figures.
Perceived free play in the rear toe link.
Grasp each of the rear wheels in turn with hands held at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock across the road wheel and rock the wheel across the horizontal axis. A healthy joint is designed to have elastic movement in it and this should not be mistaken for free play. (See attachment). Please also check the road wheel using the hand positions in the 12'o clock and 6'o clock position, if movement is felt in this position the fault is not with the rear toe links and further diagnosis is required.
If there is any doubt about the integrity of the joint, squeeze the inner rubber gaiter while a second person grasps each of the rear wheels in turn, with hands held at 3 o'clock and 9'o clock across the road wheel and rock the wheel across the horizontal axis to see if significant free play can be detected. The joint is designed to have movement (maximum 1 mm) and this should not be mistaken as free play. (See attachment).
23rd Jul 2014 7:57 pm
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Thanks FH, really helpful. I will try some of the other checks at weekend, but suspect there is nothing wrong with mine.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
23rd Jul 2014 8:20 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10730
15th May 2016 8:23 pm
BBB
Member Since: 01 Apr 2015
Location: Chester
Posts: 269
i had mine as an advisory, i couldn't see or feel any play, much like yourself, and had no funny clunks or anything coming from the rear
When removed and inspected, all looked well but as i got a new one for £20 and was doing the front track arms and was going to get a realignment anyway i just fitted new ones
The new ones were slightly stiffer at the rubber joint though.There is no I in team, but there are five in Individual Brilliance
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