Member Since: 23 Jan 2016
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 3
Disco 3 - to buy or not to buy?
Hello out there in Disco land. My first post on this forum. I've owned a couple of Disco 2s and a Freelander but am thinking about getting a Disco 3. I've got £15-20k to put in to one. The only issue is that I've heard from various people (including my old garage) that they can be very expensive to maintain - much more than the Disco 2, for example. I've also heard that the earlier models should be avoided at all costs.
I hasten to add that I'm not a DIY mechanic so my local independent Land Rover specialist is going to get my business. I'm afraid, however, of investing in a money pit.
So, should I go ahead and get a Disco 3?
By when did they iron out the initial teething problems - model year wise?
What sort of things should I be looking out for?
I'm a big LR fan and I'm sure the D3 will be a big jump on from a D2, but I just need that bit of reassurance. Over to the experts!
23rd Jan 2016 11:09 pm
Famousfive
Member Since: 12 Aug 2014
Location: Southampton
Posts: 1823
Member Since: 29 Aug 2012
Location: N Yorks
Posts: 1936
I've owned a D3 for 4 years. Been great, I did my homework and there isn't many expenses I've had that weren't expected.
My budget 4 years ago was same as yours is now. So I would agree with FamousFive - look for an early D4
23rd Jan 2016 11:49 pm
Tambo
Member Since: 21 Dec 2010
Location: North east
Posts: 341
Buy
I did nearly 7 year ago, 06' Hse, still enjoying it now.
You could blow all your budget on a newer motor, possibly a lower spec D4.
Or hold on to some of the budget as a back up for repairs and get an older higher spec D3.
23rd Jan 2016 11:55 pm
D16PJM
Member Since: 08 Dec 2015
Location: Sidcup, Kent
Posts: 309
I bought one even after reader a few horror stories, if you do your homework there are good cars out there leaving you with change to help maintain it.
Pete
24th Jan 2016 12:52 am
DaveT
Member Since: 01 Aug 2005
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2575
Long succession of Disco's since 2001...
SIII Lightweight - neglected & rusting. Bulkhead, A panels, vent panel & outriggers now disintegrated - Next years project!
24th Jan 2016 9:14 am
Landy_andy
Member Since: 05 May 2013
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 676
I was in the sand situation as you. I decided a late D3 was the best for me, all the D4's in that budget were high miles, and very early 4's. I know everyone says the engines can do high miles, but it is still wear to all the rest of the bits that can be costly.
I chose a one owner vehicle, wth service history, 74 thou miles, four matching high quality tyres, drove better than any of the others, high spec'd, and very clean. Then with the money that I had left over from not getting the D4, I got a remap, gearbox flush, four wheel alignment, redone cam belts but this time with new oil pump, and had the car fully serviced and checked over by Alltrack 4x4, who are known to be one of the best independents for D3/4's.
I feel I can now sit back and know I've got the best I can afford. Much more than I could if I had a newer, but higher milage vehicle, but no budget left over, not fully checked over and PROPERLY serviced.
Andy.
24th Jan 2016 9:22 am
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73019
Famousfive wrote:
For £20k I'm sure you could make a half decent early D4. Much better IMO than a D3
Absatidelljngtootlie.
24th Jan 2016 9:24 am
ZacSmith
Member Since: 26 Aug 2010
Location: Dover
Posts: 709
I bought an 05 5 years ago. It hasn't been flawless, but in terms of big hits, it's needed suspension arms and a new suspension compressor. There have been other issues, new alternator, binding calipers etc but nothing more than a couple of hundred quid. It's always had a WD warranty to give piece of mind.
It is expensive on tyres and brakes and diesel obviously.
I haven't regretted it at all, touch wood. Biggest recommend is to read this forum. Things like a blown brake bulb can cause all sorts of electric issues that can cost a fortune to diagnose at a jon specialist.VIN: A175A328***
Sometime in the next year or two I will sell my one owner D3, and acquire a replacement.
It will probably be one of the last D4s or if can wait that long a D5 or Jaguar F-Pace, from the second year of production - I don't want to be a Beta Tester for JLR, or acquire a car from the first year of production.
I would go for a late, one owner D3, with full LR Service history, and moderate mileage, not excessively high or low - say 8k to 12k miles per year.
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
Basically, just don't stretch your budget too much. If you can afford a good D4, then excellent, but a bad D4 will still be worse than a good D3.
Quote:
I've also heard that the earlier models should be avoided at all costs.
Not at all. It's generally said that the earlier ones are actually better. 06MY is the best going. Current: Discovery 3 06MY (55 reg) HSE Auto Zambezi Silver Allisport Fast Road Intercooler, V8 Brakes, Silicone IC Hoses, EGRs Blanked, Remapped, De-Cat pipe, FBHIC
Freelander 2 2007 HSE Manual Tambora Flame
Previous: FL2 56 reg SE Manual Black (written off )
Disco 3 06 reg B7S Manual Rimini Red
Disco 2 TD5 Y reg ES Manual Blue - Chipped
Several Discovery 300 TDis
24th Jan 2016 10:19 am
armalites
Member Since: 17 Aug 2013
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 1918
Re: Disco 3 - to buy or not to buy?
Beardylong wrote:
I've also heard that the earlier models should be avoided at all costs.
That is exactly the sort of unsupported comment that gives these vehicles a bad name. There is absolutely evidence to back that up. You would be far better buying a early model that had a few miles under it's belt that had all the suspension stuff replaced, belts done and possibly a torque converter than paying extra for blinged up low mileage example that could be ticking time bomb because there could be loads of stuff due to go.
Early S model cars had stuff standard that wasn't standard on later cars. Early cars will also save £200 a year in road tax alone.
Beardylong wrote:
I'm a big LR fan and I'm sure the D3 will be a big jump on from a D2, but I just need that bit of reassurance. Over to the experts!
We have a D2 and D3 running side by side. D3 daily, D2 spare car. In many ways the D3 is big jump but I still rate a remapped TD5 with ACE as fun drivers car and it is more nimble than a D3.
As a previous D2 owner you will be aware that everything you've been told about D3 was said about D2 when they were still new because people didn't understand them.The only difference is some of the common D2 issues can be fixed for a few quid
Unless you are after a very specifc color/trim/spec then go and drive few, you will find like all car some will drive better than others even though most owners genuinely believe their's drive fine. It should feel planted on the road, if it doesn't then you could end up chasing handling issues.
If you find one you like try and see it start on a frosty morning from stone cold if you can.IID PRO
MSV Extreme
Nanocom One
24th Jan 2016 11:12 am
Iguana
Member Since: 14 Oct 2013
Location: 'Sunny' Zomerset
Posts: 9424
Find a good one and buy it Iggy/Ieuan
Current LR =
2015 RR Sport Autobiography
&
1992 Land Rover Defender Camper
- Gone but not forgotten:
MY10 D4 GS
MY05 Disco 3 'S'
MY14 FL2 HSE manual in Blue
MY15 Disco 4 HSE Lux in Santorini Black
MY08 Disco 3 SE manual in Buck Blue
1960 Series 2 88" (No idea why I sold it!)
24th Jan 2016 11:18 am
Landy_andy
Member Since: 05 May 2013
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 676
"You would be far better buying a early model that had a few miles under it's belt that had all the suspension stuff replaced, belts done and possibly a torque converter than paying extra for blinged up low mileage example that could be ticking time bomb because there could be loads of stuff due to go"
No D3 is going to be low milage simply due to its age. Miles under the belt also will show as tired interior, door lock mechanism that have worked twice as much, wiper motors, heater controls all these bits are going to have done more work, and be closer to failing.
But who changed all the suspension parts? Replaced the whole unit, or did a minimal job of just the bushes, maybe poly bushes that can cause the arms to fail? Was it all aligned properly after the job? Too many questions about other people's work for me.
£200 a year, or 60pence a day on extra road tax is not something that I would be concerned about.
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