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Using the Stop \ Start battery to power an Engel ?
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DG
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Wales 
Using the Stop \ Start battery to power an Engel ?

Thoughts on the feasibility technos?
 21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021  
Post #15100931st Aug 2015 7:28 pm
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Gareth
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If its the same as the Jag battery, it won't last long!
  
Post #15100941st Aug 2015 7:35 pm
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DG
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can't seem to track down the amp hours on it ...40 would give roughly 12 hours which should be enough in most cases. I think it might throw up some DTCs though Smile
 21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021  
Post #15101051st Aug 2015 7:55 pm
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Bodsy
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The yellow top is only 45ah, so I don't think the stop start is that big. More like 20ah?
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Post #15101061st Aug 2015 7:57 pm
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DG
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20ah ? hmmmm ...may have been an over ambitious plan Laughing
 21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021  
Post #15101111st Aug 2015 8:05 pm
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jdhx
 


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What is an Engel?
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Post #15101311st Aug 2015 8:40 pm
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DSL
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Fridge. Thumbs Up
   
Post #15101331st Aug 2015 8:42 pm
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drivesafe
 


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Hi DG, like others, I have not yet seen the specs for the STOP/START battery but it is quite small.

So if you managed to flatten it, besides the potential of damaging this battery, you will probably have all manor of errors/problems caused the first time you drive after flattening the battery.

It would be far safer to run your fridge off the cranking battery, and even if you do manage to flatten it, it’s a simple matter of a jump start and no harm done.

Your fridge will not only run for much longer, but you can safely discharge your cranking battery down to 30% ( 11.75v ) and still be able to start your motor.
 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7  
Post #15101561st Aug 2015 9:14 pm
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DG
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Thanks Tim ..I still have one of your kits ..but I don't fancy running with the yellowtop in the boot unless it's an "easy" task. Smile
 21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021  
Post #15101601st Aug 2015 9:23 pm
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drivesafe
 


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Hi DG, it can easily be done.

Either post up or PM me which kit you have and I can let you know the simplest setup for what you want to achieve.

BTW, so many D3 and D4 owner just want to run a fridge without going though all the work to fit a second battery that I am seriously considering producing a D3/D4 specific version of my Low Voltage Cut-Out unit, the ABG-25, in a Plug-N-Play version to replace the relay in the fuse box and would protect your cranking battery against being over discharged.

DG, would this be of more interest to you?
 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7  
Post #15101942nd Aug 2015 12:05 am
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SGH
 


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^^Tim I would be interested on one. Smile
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Post #15102112nd Aug 2015 6:21 am
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DSL
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Sounds an excellent idea. Thumbs Up
   
Post #15102182nd Aug 2015 7:14 am
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Gareth
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That sounds like a good idea Thumbs Up I'd buy one...
  
Post #15102402nd Aug 2015 8:36 am
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DG
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Tim I have an SC40-LR which has done well for me on D3's and my last D4 where you could squeeze a yellowtop in by re-jigging some of the modules in the 2nd battery box ...but obviously now there's not a chance of fitting it under the bonnet.

Sounds as though your new solution would suit my needs better though so yes i would be interested.
 21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021  
Post #15102472nd Aug 2015 8:58 am
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drivesafe
 


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Australia 

Hi DG, if you still have but are not using your SC40, that can be very easily modified to do the same thing.

It is already set to cut out at 12.0v so just fit some male spade connectors on the thick wires and find a good earth for the thin wire.

Job done.
 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7  
Post #15102642nd Aug 2015 9:43 am
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