I'd look at the turbo actuator sticking first, especially as you have all silicon hoses, they should be ok.
Other turbo hoses still an option (says new silicone main hose). Current: Discovery 3 06MY (55 reg) HSE Auto Zambezi Silver Allisport Fast Road Intercooler, V8 Brakes, Silicone IC Hoses, EGRs Blanked, Remapped, De-Cat pipe, FBHIC
Freelander 2 2007 HSE Manual Tambora Flame
Previous: FL2 56 reg SE Manual Black (written off )
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14th Oct 2015 6:35 pm
DDDad
Member Since: 10 Jan 2015
Location: Angus
Posts: 1201
No boost so turbo either not spinning OR air is escaping before intake. Check new hoses are still intact and properly attached. Went for a job as a human cannonball. Not the right calibre.
14th Oct 2015 6:38 pm
F355GTS
Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
Location: North Hampshire
Posts: 849
Main hose looks good, I've not replaced others but have them here, 2nd hose appears OK, hope it's not the short one!!!!!!
Can somebody find a link to how to remove the heat shields to do the actuator, I've done it before but can't recall how and I can't find the link
thanksMark
14th Oct 2015 6:48 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Seems odd that the boost is precisely at zero; usually there is some reading.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 10 Jan 2015
Location: Angus
Posts: 1201
Assuming "Barometric" means atmospheric and "Manifold" means intake manifold, the engine is behaving like it's normally-aspirated at 4000 rpm! That sound like no boost to me. Went for a job as a human cannonball. Not the right calibre.
14th Oct 2015 8:40 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20806
But a turbocharged engine makes much more boost under load. It should still be boosting at least a small amount when revved
Member Since: 10 Jan 2015
Location: Angus
Posts: 1201
To get at the turbo actuator quickly, just remove the smaller, rearmost heat shield in the left-hand wheel arch.
A stuck turbo actuator normally means low power at low revs, but a surge of power at high rpm. That applies regardless of whether the turbo has a waste-gate or variable geometry. Totally zero boost is as if the turbine on the exhaust side is no longer turning the turbine on the intake side. Has anyone ever known the turbo to fail that way? Went for a job as a human cannonball. Not the right calibre.
14th Oct 2015 8:57 pm
DDDad
Member Since: 10 Jan 2015
Location: Angus
Posts: 1201
Alternatively, of course, perhaps the turbo bearing has completely seized due to oil starvation? Went for a job as a human cannonball. Not the right calibre.
14th Oct 2015 9:00 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20806
I have known the turbo vanes to break up, so their is no air compression.
This car in question would draw less than atmospheric pressure at idle, dropped when revved initially, and generated a max of 106-107kPa...My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
Location: North Hampshire
Posts: 849
The actuator was totally seized, if it makes a difference towards the outside of the car, took a while to get it free. Cleared the faults and the car drives fine now and with what feels like normal power plus no error codes, well except the 19 it always has .
Thanks for all your help and suggestions and to Geoff who called, this place and it's community are brilliant Mark
14th Oct 2015 9:50 pm
DDDad
Member Since: 10 Jan 2015
Location: Angus
Posts: 1201
There is the obvious, of course; that the exhaust manifold is no longer connected to the turbo, but I think you'd notice the noise!
Glad it's fixed. Still intrigued as to what position the actuator would have to be stuck in to provide zero boost at 4000 rpm! Surely it can't remain a mystery Went for a job as a human cannonball. Not the right calibre.
Last edited by DDDad on 14th Oct 2015 9:55 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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Allisport Fast Road Intercooler, V8 Brakes, Silicone IC Hoses, EGRs Blanked, Remapped, De-Cat pipe, FBHIC
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