Member Since: 03 Jul 2012
Location: Dublin
Posts: 10
TDV6 Engine oil Pump Replacement
Hi All,
Just purchased my first disco a few weeks ago, 07 SE and she is up at 104,OOO miles!
Timing belt is due any day now but while im in there im thinking of changing the engine oil pump,
its prob not the normal thing to do but i was talking to an engine shop who had seen 1 or 2 engines where the oil pump had failed! prob a bit overkill but just wondering has anyone ever tackled this with the engine in the jeep.
By the looks of the new pump it seems straight forward enough but seems to mention on topix about removing the oil pan extension, which by the looks of it is a bit of work!!
Any guidance would be much appretiated, Thanks a mil guys.
It might look like a straight forward job to change but its not you need to lock the engine up with the proper tool, as you need to undo the front crankshaft bolt which is very tight, follow this document..
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
21st Aug 2012 6:12 am
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26770
This post has been edited by the site administration team
Link fixed 8)
21st Aug 2012 6:35 am
Diggerdoc
Member Since: 03 Jul 2012
Location: Dublin
Posts: 10
Thanks for the links lads, be a big help.
Flack, just wondering about 1 thing when changing the pump, one of your pictures show the oil pump removed with the sump still in place and you can see the rubber seal that seals the bottom of the oil pump to it and also the suction port too.
Im just wondering if you can get a good enough seal on the suction port using the old seal and pushing the new pump across onto it instead of stripping the whole sump off and pushing it up onto the new pump with a new seal?! I dont want to run the risk of it sucking air and cavitating!! But it would be so much handier doing it your way!!
Just wondering have you or anyone else had any problems with this when doing the change or does it still seal with no problems using the original?!
Yes bud the sump does not come off just grease or oil the seal before you put the casing back on and fill the chamber for the oil pump housing full of new oil before you put the casing on as well.
You get a new seal with the oil pump casing as well.
Flack
29th Aug 2012 12:55 pm
Diggerdoc
Member Since: 03 Jul 2012
Location: Dublin
Posts: 10
hi all,
just finished the engine oil pump replacement and new cam belt about 20 mins ago!! all seems ok!!
just wondering has anyone got the idle oil pressure reading , topixs says 65psi but doesnt say idle or full revs
I could be in bother if that was the case!! it shoots straight up to 45-50 psi when started but stays there until revved when it easily goes up over 60!
as it got warm its now at about 40psi during idle!! hmmmm??!!!
3rd Sep 2012 5:15 pm
Diggerdoc
Member Since: 03 Jul 2012
Location: Dublin
Posts: 10
30 psi at idle now.....
3rd Sep 2012 5:43 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
In my book oil pressure at idle is listed as 10 psi (0.7 bar), rising to 27.5 psi (1.9 bar) at 3500 rpm.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
