Member Since: 26 Mar 2007
Location: Chandler's Ford
Posts: 3459
EAS Air Tank Replacement
Morning,
I'll be replacing my rusty old EAS air tank tomorrow, along with an AMK Compressor (finally).
Anything to consider when doing so? Looks as though My IIDTool has the ability to "Deflate All" or go into "Build Mode" to expel all air from the system before I start. Which one do I choose?
How does the pipe connector work? Does I just insert the pipe and tighten it up?
The current air tank fixing bolts look as though they might shear off when I undo them (small, rusty things). I've been spraying them with penetrating fluid, though.
Any tips welcomed.
Thanks,
Steve2021 BMW iX3 Premier Edition in Carbon Black ⚡️🔌
2019 Škoda Kodiaq 2.0 Tdi 190 DSG Sportline in Quartz Grey. Excellent vehicle. Gone.
2017 Discovery Sport HSE Auto in Carpathian Grey and Ebony Leather. Modern JLR Junk. Gone.
2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual in Zermatt Silver with Ebony Cloth (143k) Gone, but now patrolling the Asia section of the West Midlands Safari Park!
16th Jan 2015 8:36 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20790
The bolts will be badly corroded, and probably seized. A set of Irwin bolt extractors are almost essential, as are new bolts for refitting.
Old air Union unscrews, remove collet from air pipe. New tank should come with a new union, the pipe just pushes in.
The tabs on the air tank will need bent out of the way to enable you to drop said tank
Member Since: 28 May 2014
Location: Belfast
Posts: 497
Consider giving new tank a few coats of stone chip before fitting. While the old one’s off give floor pan and inside face of the sills the once over for lost/loose under seal and it’s a good time to treat and repaint any areas of corrosion on chassis. Behind the compressor can be particularly bad and a good clean up here it while it's of is worth doing.
16th Jan 2015 12:57 pm
Woolmeister
Member Since: 26 Mar 2007
Location: Chandler's Ford
Posts: 3459
Thanks - I didn't tackle this job today in the end but have prepared the new tank by giving it a few coats of "Simoniz Under Guard", as recommended by Paul at Advanced Factors.
Thanks for the suggestion, Alfa.
I masked off the Voss connector to prevent any of the black sticky stuff contaminating the union and gave it a few coats throughout the day, allowing it to dry between coats.
Had another look at the old one and managed to loosen all 4 bolts without too much bother. It is rusty and surprised it's not got any holes yet.
So, do I need to "Deflate All" or go into "Build Mode" (in IIDTool) when working on the air tank? I'm assuming there will be a fair amount of pressure released when I undo the existing Voss connector!
Steve2021 BMW iX3 Premier Edition in Carbon Black ⚡️🔌
2019 Škoda Kodiaq 2.0 Tdi 190 DSG Sportline in Quartz Grey. Excellent vehicle. Gone.
2017 Discovery Sport HSE Auto in Carpathian Grey and Ebony Leather. Modern JLR Junk. Gone.
2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual in Zermatt Silver with Ebony Cloth (143k) Gone, but now patrolling the Asia section of the West Midlands Safari Park!
17th Jan 2015 10:53 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20790
You don't "have" to, but there is up to 18bar of air pressure stored in the tank, so it is good practice to deflate it before working on.it My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 26 Mar 2007
Location: Chandler's Ford
Posts: 3459
Just come in from doing this job.
Was slightly awkward mainly due to the genius placement of the Voss connector on the air tank. In their wisdom, LR decided it would be more fun to position the Voss connector out of reach rather than near the bottom of the air tank where it would be nice and simple to get a 12mm spanner on it.
All the old bolts came out except one which sheared off. No bother, since the bolts screw into a nut welded onto the air tank mountings anyway. I found it helpful to support the air tank on an axle stand to prevent it dropping down onto my head (it's quite a heavy lump).
As suggested above, I gave the new tank a few coats of Simoniz Under Guard.
The old tank looked pretty to me with rust covering most of it (especially the front end which was flaking off every time I moved it).
It's unclear whether or not the Voss connector needs tightening up any once the pipe is reinserted. For the record, I did give it a couple of turns with the pipe inserted.
The workshop manual states:
LR Workshop Manual wrote:
Installation
Install a new Voss connector to the air reservoir.
Tighten the new Voss connector to 5 Nm (4 lb.ft).
Install the air suspension reservoir.
Locate the air reservoir to the chassis brackets, fit the bolts and tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb.ft).
Fully seat the air line into the Voss connector.
Pull on the air line to make sure it is fully installed into the Voss connecter.
Using T4, pressurize the air suspension. For additional information, refer to Air Suspension System Depressurize and Pressurize (60.50.38) (Section 204-05 Vehicle Dynamic Suspension)
Another job done.
Steve2021 BMW iX3 Premier Edition in Carbon Black ⚡️🔌
2019 Škoda Kodiaq 2.0 Tdi 190 DSG Sportline in Quartz Grey. Excellent vehicle. Gone.
2017 Discovery Sport HSE Auto in Carpathian Grey and Ebony Leather. Modern JLR Junk. Gone.
2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual in Zermatt Silver with Ebony Cloth (143k) Gone, but now patrolling the Asia section of the West Midlands Safari Park!
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
rusty and surprised it's not got any holes yet.
