Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
14th Mar 2012 12:05 am
tlt
Member Since: 01 Sep 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 262
That is some of it!!! Add Koni Shocks (4 items omitted)-- Leave it to Bodsy spot on every time.
It will be interesting to see how long this setup will last, if you actually update it all at once not that some (quite a few) parts have been improved.
I am going to do some other updates while it is apart, I wonder what else!
14th Mar 2012 12:15 am
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
MMMMMMMMM...... Koni FSD? or something extra special....?
Never seen front upper arms having to be replaced, is it just to get everything new so you know condition upon starting?Bodsys Brake Bible
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
14th Mar 2012 12:26 am
tlt
Member Since: 01 Sep 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 262
Koni FSD--- I gave up on that "extra special" stuff shocks as you know.
It seems the FSD are not stocked yet in the US so special ordered. I guess they're coming in on a slow boat 30 days they said. Based on what I have heard and read here, they should be an improvement and have a lifetime warranty.
Just figured what the heck, let's start off all new and see how it goes. That's not all though..!!
There are a few other bits and pieces in there.
I hope this is the last major series of updates. Having considered much of the common failures and issues that some up on the site. I have already completed; brake light bulb and switch update, belts, pulleys, diffs, tailgate, metal transmission pan, transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, power steering fluid, brake fluid, coolant renewal, battery terminal sealant, replacement negative cable and so on.
14th Mar 2012 2:03 am
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
well id be really interested in your feedback on them. I can get them here, may have been quicker for me to get them and send to you!
sounds like you're tinkering with something else there though.... will watch with trepidation...... Bodsys Brake Bible
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
16th Mar 2012 7:29 am
tlt
Member Since: 01 Sep 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 262
Cowl Replacement
Here is a how to check your cowl, and why it is important to do so.
The design of the Discovery 3 LHD or RHD is not well thought out. After starting on this project I now realize, that a snorkel will only do a bare minimum in protecting your vehicle while wading. Despite the fact the Safari snorkel for example is sealed to the air inlet, a chain is only as strong as the weakest link. The cabin air intake is one of the three areas continuously mentioned on forums as sources for leaks. Among other areas such as A pillar covers and sun roof drains. You will note in this picture, with the cowl removed, you can see the top of the cabin air filter, which explains where the water comes in from
Click image to enlarge
Inspect your cowl, where the rubber seal meets the windshield. On LHD models, the gap will be in the right hand (passenger side) and on RHD models the gap will be in the left (passenger side). You can click on the image for a larger view, note the gap just under the center of the wiper blade. This is directly over the cabin air inlet.
If you have a gap like this
Click image to enlarge
then you will want to order a replacement cowl. The LHD part number is JAG500042PMA body hardware, cowl, cowl grille $64.40 US.
Upon arrival of your replacement cowl, carefully inspect the ends for cracks. I neglected to inspect mine, and found a small crack on the end when I was read to fit it.
Click image to enlarge
From this point, it is presumed that you have determined you need to replace your cowl, and are going to change it. If you have a vehicle that is more than 4 years old, it would be advisable to also order A pillar outside covers both left and right, as well as the appropriate replacement updated clips. The reason is that two clips go into U shaped plastic on the cowl, and crack eventually or blow off while you are going down the road. These just snap off, and snap on, although repeated removal and re-installation will also contribute to cracking and leaking. You can find these listed in the windshield parts area as "side moulding left" and "side moulding right".
Required Tools;
1. Wiper Arm removal tool, or a small hammer and a ball joint separator.
2. Small flat blade screwdriver
3. Socket to remove wiper arms
4. Body snap tool (this should be a standard item in your tool box, as LR uses them extensively.
Time, approximately 30 minutes to install.
Step 1. Obtain new Cowl and A Pillar side moulding components;
Click image to enlarge
Step 2. Lift the hood
Step 3. Remove side moulding left and right
Step 4. Using flat blade screwdriver remove the covers on the wiper arms;
Click image to enlarge
Step 5. Loosen up the wiper arm nuts, loosen them about halfway if you do not have a wiper arm removal tool. Note the position of the wiper arms prior to removal. Using your removal tool, or a hammer, break the arms loose with a small tap or two on the nut;
Click image to enlarge
Step 6. Remove both wiper arms;
Click image to enlarge
Step 7. Position your body clip separator tool as indicated in Steps 12-20 in the gallery. Use caution not to crack the edge of the windshield glass, just a slight pry should pop the clips loose. If you carefully look at the pictures, and feel, you can locate the tool at each clip position;
Step 8. Carefully slide the rubber seal off the cowl anywhere it comes in contact with it. There is no glue, but you should be careful not to damage the seal. Note the socket and body tool in the picture;
Click image to enlarge
Step 9. As pictured in Steps 20-22, carefully lift the cowl up to free it from the wiper arm posts, and swing the old cowl out, and remove it out of your work area;
Click image to enlarge
Step 10. Carefully clean up your windshield glass and body under the cowl, remove any grass, leaves, dirt and debris. Use caution not to cut yourself on any exposed sharp edges. Pictures 25-27 provide several views of the area with the cowl removed;
Click image to enlarge
Step 11. Carefully fit the new cowl in place, use caution to avoid tearing the rubber seals as you fit it over the wiper arm posts, and line up the cowl, wiggle it to be sure to line up all the snap in clips, which come fitted on the cowl. Save your old cowl clips, and toss them in your spares pile;
Click image to enlarge
Step 12. Carefully give the cowl a push or tap with your PALM and push each clip in carefully, work your way across the entire cowl.
Step 13. Once you are comfortable all clips are snapped in place, you can carefully refit the rubber seal.
Click image to enlarge
Step 13. Refit your A Pillar covers, left and right. The new covers are a bit stiffer than the original ones, so with some hope, they will last longer. The cowl should be pushed on with your hand and a little tapping with your palm and view to ensure you do not see a high spot where the cowl has not snapped on, continue to carefully push it in, until it is all snapped on securely; As pictured here, the trim is not completely snapped in
Click image to enlarge
Step 14. Carefully refit the wiper arms, one at a time. Relieve pressure by bending it to take tension off the spring. Refit the nut and hand tighten it. Fit the other arm, and hand tighten the nut. Carefully Tighten the nuts to 18 Nm (13 lb.ft) while continuing to keep as much stress off the spring loaded arm as possible. If you do not have a torque wrench, do not over tighten, remember how tight it felt when removing.
Step 15. Refit the caps over the arm nuts, remove all your tools from your work area, and check to ensure you have all the tools and parts picked up. Close the hood, the job is completed.
Any suggestions, modifications or part numbers for this post will be integrated into the original write up. If it looks like this when done, then please review the steps to ensure you did not miss a step.
Member Since: 15 Oct 2008
Location: Lanarkshire
Posts: 1372
If you want to post picture and they are in your gallery, then click on the BB Code/ BB Code Full Size, i always copy and then you paste the code onto your post, thread. (not sure if when clicking the code, is its an automated copy similar to photobucket) and also easier to work with either two windows open or tabs to copy and paste between album and post. ATB
Member Since: 12 Dec 2005
Location: The Gaff
Posts: 50979
All done 21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021
23rd Mar 2012 8:30 pm
tlt
Member Since: 01 Sep 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 262
Thanks a lot-- it looks much better now... eventually I will have several of these, Then I will spit them up and we will have a few more "how-to" guides.
26th Mar 2012 5:41 pm
Russell
Member Since: 23 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 10564
tlt good write up MY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
MY15 D4 HSE Kaikoura Stone
MY12 D4 HSE Nara Bronze Sold and gone
MY11 D4 HSE Stornaway Grey Sold and gone
D3 S spec Silver Sold and gone
Tow bar, full length roof bars, side steps, tow bar storage unit, surround camers.
D4 camera club
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