Member Since: 28 May 2014
How to fit new front wheel hubs.
Had a bad rumble from the front, the cause of which was the front N/S wheel hub. Despite checking, there was no feel of a loose bearing when holding the wheel at top and bottom, but when it was rotated it was a little uneven. Time for a new hub or two and I decided to replace both at the same time, which will explain why some photos are from N/S and O/S.
Bought 2 of these off Ebay for Â£109.99 ea from Adventure 4x4
and got to work.......
A tip at this point is to prise out the wheel centre trims, unstake the stake nuts holding the hubs on with a screw driver and with a 34mm socket slacken off the nut before you raise the car.
Now, with the rear wheels chocked, raise the car at the centre of the front cross member and put stands at the 2 front chassis jacking points.
Now the real work begins:
Finish removing the slackened stake nuts and get the wheels off.
Take out the 2 bolts from sliders and with the calliper off use a length of wire to hang it off the spring mounting bolt.
Now 2 bolts holding carrier
Disconnect the brake wear indicator, for this a pair of long nose pliers is helpful,
Remove speed sensor.
At this stage there is a bit of a choice as to wether to take out the hub mounting bolts or to press out the drive shaft first. I used both methods with equal efficiency.
3 legged puller pushes out the drive shaft
Expect some resistance getting the old hubs off as there is usually quite a build up of muck and rust between the knuckle and hub.
After a bit of a clean
With the splines lightly greased and a smear of grease on the back the hub was fitted.
I don't have a torque wrench that goes to 258 Lb/FT so using a breaker bar I applied my weight at 1' 4" from the centre. Why? Because I weigh 196Lb (14st) and to use my weight to apply the correct torque I divided the target weight by mine, which told me I needed to apply it at 1.31ft from the centre of the axle. (The first foot gave 196Lb/ft and the next 4" the remaining 62Lb) This I did with out bouncing on the bar when it stopped as that would result in over tightening.
Once tight the stake nut was staked as in photo above
All back together.
Car now running smoothly and quietly.[URL=http://www.fuelly.com/car/land_rover/discovery/2014/feidhlim/1022485][/URL
ThanksDisco 3 HSE MY07, D4 heated Steering/W, D4 rear cluster, D4 extended roof rack, D4 grille & air grille, D4 rear bumper, colour coded arches + front bumper, side-steps, Webasto timer/ remote control, De-Tangoed Xenon headlights + HID, LEDs all around, reverse CAM (RR hack) + brightness, DLR LEDs, 3-click indicator, SatNav on the move, EGR's done, front/rear antiroll bar Polybush, gearbox pan/filter + oil mega-flush, front/rear diff oil, new oil pump + water pump, timing belts replaced.
26th Aug 2014 8:19 pm
Member Since: 10 Sep 2012
You've over torqued the hub nut, the torque figure was revised to 230Nm to extend the life of the bearings. The original figure was 350Nm GAP IID Pro Multi Vehicle Defender L316 2007-2015 - Discovery 3 - Discovery 4 - Discovery Sport L550 - Freelander 2 - Range Rover Evoque L538 - Range Rover L322 - Range Rover L405 - Range Rover Sport L320 - Range Rover Sport L494 Electrical Fault Diagnostics
26th Aug 2014 9:09 pm
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Well, that has convinced me to DIY when the next one fails. Good post, thanks.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
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