Member Since: 05 Feb 2014
Location: Sydney, New South Wales
Posts: 60
Need some help re: suspension going down overnight.
Hi All, I'm currently out near a place called White Cliffs NSW (a long way from anywhere) and don't have ready access to any fault reading equipment. I have an issue with my suspension and I was hoping someone could help.
The other day, I noticed that overnight my front suspension dropped. Not to the blocks, but still enough to be a concern. I'm getting a yellow fault indication just after I start up, but it goes away once I restart the engine. The next night I did the fuse pull to check for leaks and stuff. Again the suspension dropped on the front. (Both sides)
I did a check of the airbags with some soapy water and can't seem to see any leaks, although maybe I was spraying in the wrong place. (tips please!!)
I'm heading into Broken Hill tomorrow and will look for a mechanic that may be able to help. (It's only a quick trip of about 280km)
So, although I'm not panicking at this stage, can I please have some tips?
To me, it sounds like I'm getting an air leak at the front transfer relief valve, but I wanted to run it past the experts! I know that to get an accurate fault diagnosis that I need to hook it up to a fault reader, but at this stage I just want to make sure it's nothing too critical.
The compressor by the way is fairly new. (18 months old)
All help very much appreciated.
23rd Feb 2014 10:54 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Not seen an airbag leak yet, but seen a picture of one. Couplings, pipes and especially the valve blocks are favourite.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 09 Mar 2013
Location: Dorset
Posts: 63
I've just had the same thing, overnight both sides on the front would drop 25mm.
Took a punt that it was the front valve block and as I was a bit concerned about the once only foss connectors I cleaned the block without taking it off the car, I took the suspension fuse out then took off the wheel and inner wing liner which exposes the block.
I pulled off the electrical connection then cracked the bottom air connector until it leaked before waited until it stopped ( about 10 mins) then took the block apart apart, its only 4 torx screws. This fella show you whats inside
I took the valves apart and gave all the O rings a clean with a bit of petrol, gave the seats in the block a clean then put it back together tightening the connector back up. Its been fine ever since even if it doesn't last at least I know what it is and will have to replace the block.
The valves were quite dirty and I don't suppose it takes much to cause a slight leak
24th Feb 2014 3:09 am
RobV
Member Since: 13 Nov 2009
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 31
I also had a leak pointing to the front. It was the front valve block which was leaking air through the electrical connector. This is the second case I know of where it leaks through the electrical connector.
24th Feb 2014 6:34 am
discoandrewoz
Member Since: 05 Feb 2014
Location: Sydney, New South Wales
Posts: 60
Cheers all. You have confirmed my suspicions. I might crack the valve block and have a look.
Where am at the moment is the bull dust capitol of the world!!! I was thinking that maybe some of this bull dust may of infiltrated the valve.
I'll let you know tomorrow.
24th Feb 2014 12:14 pm
cmb6s
Member Since: 06 Sep 2013
Location: Herndon, VA
Posts: 73
Great video Grumpee! Thanks.
24th Feb 2014 3:05 pm
discoandrewoz
Member Since: 05 Feb 2014
Location: Sydney, New South Wales
Posts: 60
Just to let fill you in on my findings, I changed the front valve block last night. It took a while to pressurise up again but the front hasn't dropped again. I was lucky, a mechanic here in Broken Hill had a good second hand valve block on hand. (real lucky in this town)
I pulled apart the old valve and it was certainly dirty. I have given it a wash and will keep it as a spare.
The only issue I have now is the yellow light comes on intermittently. (Normal ride height warning)
I'm hoping this will settle but if it doesn't maybe the compressor is stuffed as well. Funny because it appears to be ok.
Before I go too far with the compressor however I may have a look at the dryer and do a rebuild on it first.
Anyway, thanks all for your help, it made the job a lot easier to pinpoint.
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I know that to get an accurate fault diagnosis that I need to hook it up to a fault reader, but at this stage I just want to make sure it's nothing too critical.
I was thinking that maybe some of this bull dust may of infiltrated the valve.
