Member Since: 31 Mar 2020
Location: Prevessin-Moens
Posts: 3
TDV6 Oil Pump and crankshaft oil seal installation
Hello,
I'm new to this Forum and happy to publish my first post. I have read many good posts over the last few months that have helped me keep my Discovery in good working order, so many thanks to you all.
I just started a new project in replacing the timing belts and oil pump, since the main dealer never bothered to replace the pump with the redesigned housing when they did the cambelt at 140,000 KM. Luckily, the mount didn't fail at 220,000 KM.
So anyway, my question pertains to the installation of the Teflon / PTFE crankshaft seal. The pump I currently bought has "stops or half-moons shaped pieces that center the oil pump to the crankshaft" that don't allow you to install the 7mm wide seal further than 10mm in, ie recessed by 3mm. Apparently, even if you install the seal right up until it bottoms out, the oil drain hole below the seal is still uncovered.
Is this a acceptable or must the seal be installed without bottoming out, and only be recessed by 1mm so the "eye" of the drain hole is further uncovered? The strange thing is that the drain hole slot on the bottom of the oil pump that is flush with the sump is very thin, so I don't see why you can't install the seal all the way in.
The reason why I ask is that I managed to scratch the crankshaft while removing the old seal exactly where the new Teflon seal would normally ride, so if I install the seal further in, the seal lips will ride on a smooth undamaged portion of the crank. I have removed all traces and ridges of the scratch so that the seal isn't damaged when I slide it on.
I have attached a photo so you can see the damaged portion of the crank and the portion behind that is clean.
The only other solution would be to order a 35x50x10mm double lip Viton seal that is 10 mm wide with the lips riding on either side of the damaged portion.
I hope I'm being clear, and please don't hesitate to ask my if you need any additional clarifications.
Many thanks for your advice!!!
Click image to enlarge
31st Mar 2020 10:01 am
john ryan
Member Since: 05 Apr 2006
Location: leamington spa
Posts: 121
You can push the seal in to the stops. It will be recessed slightly, and this is correct.
31st Mar 2020 10:48 am
Manaman
Member Since: 31 Mar 2020
Location: Prevessin-Moens
Posts: 3
Alright thanks!
So using the Land Rover special tool that pushes the seal in just 1mm isn't necessarily right?
You can manage without it but be very careful, the seals dont like being distorted to much or they leak, some have used a big socket, I have even printed a tool and it works fine, but I also have the LR tool that I use all the time.
Flack
31st Mar 2020 3:03 pm
Manaman
Member Since: 31 Mar 2020
Location: Prevessin-Moens
Posts: 3
Thank you.. so you can confirm that I can push the seal in to the end, without risk of blocking the oil drain hole? I don't have the tool, but I have a socket set with the exact dimensions so it won't be an issue putting the seal in straight.
What I really need to know is that due to my crank having slight surface damage, I need to push the seal until it bottoms out if I want the seal lip to run on a clean portion of the crankshaft. So my only concern is blanking out the oil drain hole or restricting it too much.
Sorry for double checking, but I don't want to risk having to open it again.
On the new style pumps you cant insert the seal to far, if you look through the hole there are three tabs that stop the seal going to far and covering the oil drain hole.
Flack
31st Mar 2020 6:48 pm
ph1ll
Member Since: 15 May 2020
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 51
Flack wrote:
I have even printed a tool and it works fine
Hi Flack, do you have an STL or link for the 3D printed tool you could share?
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