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Mike.G
Member Since: 23 Mar 2025
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2
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| TDV6 crankshaft bearing replacement. |
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I’m after a little bit of help and direction, please!
I’m stuck away in west Cornwall and have been looking for a reasonable mileage Disco 3 but, this week only about an hour from me a 2010 Disco 4 HSE has popped up for sale needing the crankshaft bearings doing.
The car itself is in a lovely condition and just the sort of thing I’m looking for and, the price obviously reflects the issues and I’m not scared of taking anything on - I have time and space which are usually the two biggest factors!
Could anyone point me in the direction of a good ‘how to’ thread/video so I can look at what’s involved and get my head around what I’d be undertaking?
I’ve copied the main text of the listing in case those with more knowledge of these vehicles can offer any other thoughts/identify potential issues?
Cheers
Mike
Land Rover Discovery 4, HSE TDV6 Auto spares or repair
It’s is a dark blue with the coloured body trim and is in excellent condition inside and out. There are two transponder keys.
Engine had cam belt change in 2022.
The engine is close to locking up. It will move slightly on the starter. By turning the crankshaft pulley with a socket you can see the flywheel move so the crank shaft is not snapped.
I intended to drop the sump and replace the big end bearings, but quite frankly having viewed the job it seems out of my capabilities.
Therefore selling the car as spares or repair with the bearing set.
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 23rd Mar 2025 9:51 am |
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eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 850
 
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my first thoughts would be if its that bad you are not going to get away with changing the shells its most likely going to need a regrind and that's a completely different job, I'd be inclined to spend a bit more and get a good one even if you are capable of fixing this one please excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
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| 23rd Mar 2025 10:18 am |
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Down&Dirty
Member Since: 17 Aug 2012
Location: Somewhere out back
Posts: 1303
  
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Or you could simply swap out engine for something like this 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135637772807?_s...R4iOiqa4ZQ MY24 Defender 90 X-Dynamic HSE
MY18 Disco 5 HSE Santorini Black Now Gone.
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| 23rd Mar 2025 10:44 am |
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Brooklyn2
Member Since: 02 Nov 2024
Location: Mansfield
Posts: 66
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If the crank is close to locking up, it will need more than reshelling.
It will most likely have other damage elsewhere.
It is possible to remove the engine with the body on, but it's normally done as a body off job,
If the engine is locking up, there's a good chance it will need a replacement crank, you will need to check the cams, pistons and cylinders carefully basically everything that relies on oil pressure, which is basically everything..
Also budget for an oil pump, gasket set, belt kit.
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| 23rd Mar 2025 10:58 am |
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Mike.G
Member Since: 23 Mar 2025
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2
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Cheers for the info.
I’m guessing the engine out is a pretty big job?
I was interested in this one as it’s such a nice car and was hoping that even if it were a pig of a job/time consuming, it’s something that I could do over a few weeks but, I’m guessing this is probably bigger a deal than I thought?
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| 23rd Mar 2025 12:16 pm |
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Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 384
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Unless you want a passion project don't touch it with a barge pole...... I'd assume it has snapped the crank, but will still just turn.
Watch this:
&list=PLhbQfjsQCnPNo60IWeMrPiV-6hWUJudo5&index=2
Having rebuilt a 2.7 that was 'ok' it is a big job, but doable. BUT the tolerances in these engines are measured in microns - totally different beast to engines of old that folk rebuilt at home. It will cost more to sort than buying a good one. Series one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
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| 23rd Mar 2025 10:24 pm |
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Grant-B
Member Since: 02 Apr 2025
Location: West Midlands, Tamworth
Posts: 173
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What tends to happen is...
A bearing spins in the con rod after partially welding to the crank.
At this point one of 2 things happen...
The con rod welds to the crank-shaft & seizes...
Or
The con-rod welds to the crank & shears the crank shaft in two.
There will be a refurb kit that has crank, bearings, main bearings, oil seals, con rods & pistons.
Also get a new oil pump.
Personally, i would pull the engine, turn upside down on a mount, & pull the crank-shaft AND con-rods & leave the pistons in place. The pistons should be fine if the bores are not scored.
The oil pump has a specific procedure for refitting & to use/not-use sealant in specific places.
Once the bearings are run-in, swap the 5w30 oil for 5w50.
This will ensure oil pressure throughout the engine.
With a proper wheeled engine mount, you can rotate the engine easily, &, do the job sat on a comfy stool with ease.
Take note of the bolt torques AND use all new bolts EVERYWHERE.
THESE ENGINES ARE MADE OF CHEESE, & dont suffer overtightening of anything.
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| 12th May 2025 1:21 pm |
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