Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1923
Suspension sinking: is there a diagnosis guide here?!
Out of the blue, my V8 is sinking overnight. I've read so many threads my eyes are popping out of my head. I'm not lazy - just confused to hell and back. Fuses. Valves, etc.
Can anyone point me to a fault-finding thread? i.e. where to start the fault-finding process?
I have an IID tool and it shows no faults whatsoever.
Couldn't find anything in the wiki.
Symptoms are front seems to be sinking more than the back, but left on it's own (it, like me, is in quarantine) sinks over time if not quite to the stops.
Thanks.
PAGODA
5th May 2020 2:05 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4627
Faulty front/rear valve block and or contaminated with debris from the dryer. Seal kits are available as are new valve blocks. Check the condition of the compressor dryer and replace the desiccant and filters. Might as well check the condition reservoir while you are at it, though a leak here will not cause your symptoms.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
5th May 2020 2:55 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
Cars of this age do droop I little
If it can go 3 days without you visually noticing then it’s fine
If it can’t last 12 hours it needs work.
The car self levels so u can remove a fuse to see which corner is the first to drop.
5th May 2020 6:18 am
Prette
Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
Re: Suspension sinking: is there a diagnosis guide here?!
pagoda wrote:
Out of the blue, my V8 is sinking overnight. I've read so many threads my eyes are popping out of my head. I'm not lazy - just confused to hell and back. Fuses. Valves, etc.
Can anyone point me to a fault-finding thread? i.e. where to start the fault-finding process?
I have an IID tool and it shows no faults whatsoever.
Couldn't find anything in the wiki.
Symptoms are front seems to be sinking more than the back, but left on it's own (it, like me, is in quarantine) sinks over time if not quite to the stops.
Thanks.
I have similar "feature", however, it is more intermitent. My LR3 rear side sometimes drops overnight, some times drops after 2 days. Front is always good.
However, I just turn it on, wait some seconds and voila, all good again. I thought it was normal (but I only own the car for about .... exactly before the quarantine. . And have not driven much yet .
@Pete K: why would it need to be checked if dropped overnight? It will come back up again anyway when you turn on. Right?
5th May 2020 4:34 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4627
If its going down overnight the leak is more severe, and it will place a load factor on the compressor beyond its design capability. (ie Overunning)yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
5th May 2020 5:43 pm
Prette
Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
I just topped now. Let us see if tomorrow it is still up. If not... can you guys guide me where to look for the repair kit? gaskets, valves, or so? Thanks. Is it something reasonably easy to do?
edit: Just remembered that many times the suspension "overshoot" and I can hear the pressure release valve kicking. It feels to me that when there is no movement (e.g. parked overnight) it drops, every other time, it is really not noticeable. When driving or after warmed-up, I can barely hear the compressor kicking in.
Last edited by Prette on 5th May 2020 6:40 pm. Edited 1 time in total
5th May 2020 6:13 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
Front air block is fairly easy to clean out and fit new seals
Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
Thanks Pete, UK is always best for me. I still go/went (before the lockdown) at least 6 times a year back to UK.
Do this o-ring kit come with instructions? I am still in a situation of "driveway-work" in the NL, my tools are in a storage and I do not yet have a garage, so I need to plan ahead the difficulty of the job.
5th May 2020 6:45 pm
pagoda
Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1923
Thanks for the link.
Just so I’m clear, this is the start point for fault diagnosis; ie change the front seals, etc. Then go from there. No step before that?
Grateful for the comments thus far.PAGODA
6th May 2020 4:07 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
If you search on here you should find guides for both of you.
For diagnostic you
Recently run the car so suspension is up
remove a fuse from under the bonnet to stop self levelling.
Wait at least over night and see which corners are down.
You could take measurements before, from wheel arch lip to wheel center
However the front valve block is easy to get to and common.
There are YouTube videos, For valve block cleaning.
I think you need a 12mm spanner, and torx bit
But you need to remove the wheel arch liner or bumper
6th May 2020 5:11 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
its the small fuse on the right (in purple)
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Click image to enlarge
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6th May 2020 12:57 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Same Isue solved
I had the same issue on MY2005 LR3. I rebuilt the front and rear valve blocks and she is good to go now, no sinking. Kit was $25 off fleabay.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
6th May 2020 4:01 pm
Prette
Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
Quick update.
Did the fuse off test today. It dropped quite substantiatly in only 9h. only the rear end though. So... I assume I will tackle the rear valve block first.
I could not find any local supplier for the kit.
The fleabay will cost me 28GBP and take over a week to arrive from UK. I have a local LR breaker that has a good 2nd hand block for 35EUR. I was thinking in buying that by friday, exchange with mine (which is very bad ATM) this Saturday and see how everything goes, then clean and service mine next week to put it back later.
BTW, does anyone knows the difference between rear and front valve block? they look exactly the same.
6th May 2020 9:14 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4627
They do look very similar but the blocks are different front to rear, and are not interchangeable.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
6th May 2020 9:36 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
REar hard to get at
As far as the rebuild they are both basically the same to rebuild. The rear is about 20x as hard to get at. IMO.
Make sure not to cross thread the air lines going back in. Oh and when you look it up on Youtube pay no attention to the guy that says removing the spare makes it easier to get at. I did mine and all that meant was I had to put it back when I finished. Extend to off road or extended height, jack it up on RHD passenger side LHD Drivers side and let the shock go as far down as possible, then squeeze it out thru the small gap as far as possible, then remove air lines. If you have a "fuel line" wrench, basically an end wrench with a piece of the round end removed you will do better at getting to the lines.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
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. And have not driven much yet 
.
