Member Since: 11 Nov 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 70
Steering wheel wobble at speed on motorway, a roads.
Hello,
Borrowed parents 4x4 for holiday due to space. Had to call at ecp for new wipers as the 3 month Asda wipers (not my choice!) were rubbing, squeaking.
The steering wheel has a slight wobble at about 55 mph and seems tt get worse when taken to 70mph.
The front wheel was swapped recently with the spare.It is possible the spare wheel has lost a wheel weight, but it looks brand new and has no sign of adhesive but no wheel weight.
When I return from holiday I will swap with the old wheel which is now the spare and if steering wheel stops wobble at speed then get the offending wheel balanced. Can a spare go out of balance? Tread hardly used.
On holiday at mo, so no access to 3 t jacks and I don't fancy messing with the tiny jack provided.
However, whilst driving at 20mph on slightly uneven roads I could hear a click, tinny noise. Whilst parked up on level , high suspension I rocked the car. I can see play on the front left lower suspension arm bush and can hear the same metallic click noise coming from it.
The car is low mileage (36k) but 14 years old. The bushes look mushy and I said to parent who is main driver that there is sway on roads.
Can a worn suspension bush cause steering wheel vibration. I have had this before on other cars and it causes vague steering but not steering wheel vibration. This is a truck though not a car with multilink suspension front and rear.
Any suggestions appreciated.
20th Jul 2023 1:31 pm
pwheeldon
Member Since: 15 Jan 2020
Location: West Yorks
Posts: 1449
I had similar issues, vibration was at about 65 and I could hear the clicking whilst driving at slower speeds especially where the sound was reflected from a wall etc. Mine turned out to be the front drive shaft, not sure which one as it went whilst in France and got it swapped over there. I'd suggest just trying the shafts see if there's play in either of them, you should be able to check without jacking it up.Discovery 4 GS 2009 Auto Stornoway Grey
Discovery 3 s 2005 Auto Bonatti Grey Gone
Discovery 3 SE 2005 Manual Zambezi Silver Gone
Range Rover Sport HSE 2006 Black
Aston Martin DB7 VV
20th Jul 2023 7:41 pm
bmbmdmb
Member Since: 11 Nov 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 70
Thanks. Clicking is synonymous with CV joints, particularly when steering is turned fully on the move. This is not the case here. Only apparent at low speeds, particularly when going up hill and applying throttle from 20mph on slightly bumpy road then braking. I have read that this is tell tale sign of front suspension bush failure. Almost sounded like a ARB or drop link. I have managed to identify the lower front right suspension bush as the cause of this click/tinny tap noise. I have read that the bolt going through the bush and arm is metal sleeved. Worryingly, with only me rocking the car albeit on high suspension, I could see movement in the bolt up and down. The bolt appears tight, it is the bush material that is knackered. I also read that this is the most common repair on discovery 4,3 vehicles.
Question is, will this cause the steering to wobble or am I looking at a out of balance wheel?
I had a quick look at suspension bushes for the D4 and it appears that the bushes are sold fitted to the arms. The bushes are also fitted eccentric
What is best practice? Change all front lower arms and bushes?
Change both front lower and upper arm bushes?
Need I do anything else? This work might be expected on a 60 to 75k mile vehicle. 36k seems a bit low for a vehicle that has seen no off road action, albeit used to carry building materials on occasion.
Can I expect the rear suspension arms to last a bit longer?
I posted months ago about OEM rubber Vs poly bushes, almost expecting that this might be a job to do. I wasn't expecting this so soon.
I'm tempted to go rubber because I've read the D4 lower suspension arm bushes absorb bumps in the road better than polybushes that transmit these shocks to the track rod ends and steering rack. The vehicle is about comfort, ride quality.
The superpro look good but still harsh?
20th Jul 2023 8:39 pm
pwheeldon
Member Since: 15 Jan 2020
Location: West Yorks
Posts: 1449
The general consensus on the arms is to replace the whole arm and not just the bushes, likewise it seems that poly bushes don't work well with these cars, I cant speak from experience on this though. I have done all four front arms and its not too bad a job, a bit fiddly getting the top bolts on but doable on the drive.Discovery 4 GS 2009 Auto Stornoway Grey
Discovery 3 s 2005 Auto Bonatti Grey Gone
Discovery 3 SE 2005 Manual Zambezi Silver Gone
Range Rover Sport HSE 2006 Black
Aston Martin DB7 VV
21st Jul 2023 2:11 pm
bmbmdmb
Member Since: 11 Nov 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 70
Thanks PW
I've had a good search of internet.
Recommended is Range Rover Sport lower control arms, compatible with the Discovery 4. I have seen Meyle Heavy Duty LCA on advanced factors website
https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/lr073369...2972-p.asp
These are recommended for D3, D4 and RRS.
Not sure whether they are the 'uprated' version folks have been discussing over the last few years I read online?
Also, I have heard mentioned that some people have used the LCA designed for the 'Armoured D4', but no mention of harshness etc.
Furthermore, I have read the front LCA bush is a 'hydrobush', fluid-filled, is this correct?
Yes, I read buying the LCA with prefitted bushes and ball joint is the way to go. I have a bush insertion tool, but looking at one website there appeared to be a bespoke tool for the rear of the front lower control arm which I don't have , £85 for tool. Also, read that once the ball joint is popped out the new one might not fit securely.
The bushes are 'eccentric' and need attention paid to their alignment as the old ones were.
Can anyone suggest whether the Meyle HD are the RRS uprated LCA?
So, do you recommend changing both front LCAs and, in addition, the upper two front control arms?
The rear suspension seems firm, what is likely longevity on the bushes at the rear? On road, had little towing, occasionally used for full loads. Every suspension job on the D4 front or back is a trip and invoice for laser wheel alignment. I'd rather pay once rather than several times.
Thanks
21st Jul 2023 3:43 pm
pwheeldon
Member Since: 15 Jan 2020
Location: West Yorks
Posts: 1449
When I did my fronts I got a good price on them so it was worth my while doing both anyway. It also feels right to balance repairs like that to me, so if you do one side do the other, like you say you'll need alignment anyway, so better to pay once for tgat. However, I'm happy to be corrected as there are people on here who have significantly more knowledge and experience than I do.Discovery 4 GS 2009 Auto Stornoway Grey
Discovery 3 s 2005 Auto Bonatti Grey Gone
Discovery 3 SE 2005 Manual Zambezi Silver Gone
Range Rover Sport HSE 2006 Black
Aston Martin DB7 VV
21st Jul 2023 9:31 pm
bmbmdmb
Member Since: 11 Nov 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 70
The front two lower rear bushes, hydrobushes were knackered. 11year old , 36k miles. The front right rear bush was dripping fluid after a drive.
I replaced this front right lower arm first. The front left arm was changed also, the hydrobush was unexpectedly knackered.
I have replaced the front upper arms also. They were ok, the rubbers were drying out and crusty but good compliance.
Nice challenge working around the back of the suspension tower!
I had to use the cobalt reciprocating saw blade on the back bolt end of the rear bush front lower arm, just in front of the catalytic converter.
Anyone know why LR have a long protruding bolt after the nut? It has a square profile at the end but can't think that spanner would help here. See photo. Cutting it allowed a socket to put on the nut and use a breaker bar.
Click image to enlarge
Any advice on the rear suspension arms....
The vehicle is low mileage but these rubber bushes, particularly the hydrobushes seem to perish with age. When a punch was put on the bolt hole the bush showed large amount of play and stress lines in the rubber, leaking the hydraulic fluid. Front left had no fluid left.
Should I be looking at replacing the rear suspension arms?
I read the upper arm has a hydrobush (front of upper rear arm? That correct?).
I'm looking at £170 to £210 to get wheel alignment with the number of adjustments needed. I followed the Britpart video. The cam bolts were marked but they will no doubt need adjustment.
So I either pay up £650 for Meyle rear arms and get one 4 wheel alignment or maybe get a few years more out the rear arms?
What is your opinions on getting the rear done?
Kwik fit have good laser alignment kit but I'm not sure whether they are well trained up on these vehicles. I'm looking at £65 for toe and upto £165 for caster and camber.
Anyone tell me how the front bushes affect caster? I was under the impression caster is how far forward or backward the wheel is positioned relative to the suspension spring. I can't see any movement unless chassis is broke. Camber I understand being affected by the bolts being tightened in the wrong place.
The magic number between the hub nut centre and to the underside of the plastic fender is 466mm. I measured 458mm on both sides before I undertook anywirk on a level garage floor, so I went with this when torquing up bolts at normal ride height.
Anyone buying the fitment bolt nut washers etc kit. They come with a new 32mm hub nut. I have X4 new ones now as the upper arms each came with a hub nut too! Didn't need to use as the lower arm ball joint could be dis/assembled without removing knuckle from driveshaft for access.
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