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Solved -Testing Air Suspension Pump in situ Fault Code C1A20
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1powerrack
 


Member Since: 09 Nov 2014
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 149

England 
Solved -Testing Air Suspension Pump in situ Fault Code C1A20

I am looking to test the output pressure of the air suspension pump in situ, by removing the output pipe from the pump which would go to middle valve block, and inserting another pipe that connects to a pressure gauge that has a range of 0 - 80 bar.

To test the pump safely and not causing any of the struts to deflate I was thinking of 2 methods,

1/ remove a battery connection and then as an extra precaution unplugging the connector on the middle valve block so the valves are shut, connect my pressure gauge to the pump output, reconnect the battery but leaving the connector at the middle valve block disconnected and start the engine so the pump fires up and I can read the pump output pressure, do I need to reconnect the plug on the valve block?

or

2/ remove a battery connection and then as an extra precaution unplugging the connector on the middle valve block so the valves are shut, connect my pressure gauge to the pump output, separate the power plug to the pump and connect an external battery to the plug feeding the pump and read the pressure
output

would both work or is option 2 the safest ?

reason for this is, I had the code C1A20 (Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir.) and noticing corrosion on the air tank I decided to replace it with a spare new tank I had, however this did not clear the fault code, a quick check with soapy water on the air tank output connector showed no air bubbles and the pump will only run for about 15 seconds before it is stopped and the yellow light came on the dashboard, this was present before changing the tank.

so before condemning the air pump I thought checking the output pressure would save time not removing the pump if it's ok, the car currently has all 4 struts inflated and they loose no pressure, but i cannot move the car through the access height / extended height until C1A20 is resolved.
 D3 4.4 V8 2005 sadly now gone
Freelander 2 i6 HSE now gone was a very good 4x4
Triumph TR8 


Last edited by 1powerrack on 8th Mar 2024 9:16 pm. Edited 2 times in total 
Post #23633211st Mar 2024 11:43 pm
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Pete K
 


Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10367

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Rimini RedDiscovery 3

Don’t really need to disconnect battery or connectors.

Put your gauge in if you can. Bypass the large relay pins under the bonnet to run pump
  
Post #23633232nd Mar 2024 12:08 am
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1powerrack
 


Member Since: 09 Nov 2014
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 149

England 

Pete,
I will try that method, thanks for the reply
Glenn
 D3 4.4 V8 2005 sadly now gone
Freelander 2 i6 HSE now gone was a very good 4x4
Triumph TR8 
 
Post #23633272nd Mar 2024 10:27 am
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1powerrack
 


Member Since: 09 Nov 2014
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 149

England 

update,
I tested the Hitachi pump output and the dial gauge it was reading 20 bar when i removed the link from the relay socket, so I can assume the pump is fine.
Reading the gallery pressure I saw 92 kpa at rest and when the pump started to run the reading was
117 kpa after which the yellow dash light illuminated for a suspension issue with C1A20 back on the fault list.
I also monitored the pipe from middle valve block to air tank with no pressure seen to the tank

I did try the soapy water test on the middle valve block and saw no air leaks, middle valve block issue?
 D3 4.4 V8 2005 sadly now gone
Freelander 2 i6 HSE now gone was a very good 4x4
Triumph TR8 


Last edited by 1powerrack on 4th Mar 2024 3:12 pm. Edited 1 time in total 
Post #23634854th Mar 2024 3:00 pm
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1powerrack
 


Member Since: 09 Nov 2014
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 149

England 

sorry double post
 D3 4.4 V8 2005 sadly now gone
Freelander 2 i6 HSE now gone was a very good 4x4
Triumph TR8 
 
Post #23634874th Mar 2024 3:10 pm
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Globetrotter448
 


Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1783

Australia 2007 Discovery 3 4.0 V6 Petrol SE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

There is a repair kit for the middle valve block.
  
Post #23635615th Mar 2024 9:16 am
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1powerrack
 


Member Since: 09 Nov 2014
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 149

England 

hi Globetrotter448,
thanks for the info, I have decided to treat the D3 to a new valve block because I don't know the history of the valve block, and if any of the solenoids are worn out it would be best to replace as a unit, just hope that's the only problem, at least it's cheaper than a new pump currently at about £500
Glenn
 D3 4.4 V8 2005 sadly now gone
Freelander 2 i6 HSE now gone was a very good 4x4
Triumph TR8 
 
Post #23635695th Mar 2024 10:27 am
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pjm-84
 


Member Since: 04 Oct 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2439

Ukraine 

Hi Glenn,

Never changed the middle valve block but the front and rear were treated to new LR valve blocks. (The repair kit never worked for me on the front)
  
Post #23635715th Mar 2024 10:49 am
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1powerrack
 


Member Since: 09 Nov 2014
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 149

England 

thanks for that info, the price of LR valve blocks is really over the top, so I have bought the All-makes premium with 2 year warranty they look to have very good reliability report, should get that sometime on Wednesday and fitted that day unless the rain returns!
You'll be glad to know the D3 is still going well with usual maintenance replacements over the last 3 years.
update to follow
 D3 4.4 V8 2005 sadly now gone
Freelander 2 i6 HSE now gone was a very good 4x4
Triumph TR8 
 
Post #23636115th Mar 2024 4:08 pm
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pjm-84
 


Member Since: 04 Oct 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2439

Ukraine 

Cheers Glen,

I keep looking at the white D4 5.0V8.... resisting the urge...... problem is at 26k I can buy a nice 2016 D4 Landmark
  
Post #23636325th Mar 2024 7:06 pm
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1powerrack
 


Member Since: 09 Nov 2014
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 149

England 

it's that V8 siren calling you, as the great man said "you know it makes sense" Very Happy
 D3 4.4 V8 2005 sadly now gone
Freelander 2 i6 HSE now gone was a very good 4x4
Triumph TR8 
 
Post #23636435th Mar 2024 7:59 pm
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1powerrack
 


Member Since: 09 Nov 2014
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 149

England 

might need a bit of input to resolve this, replaced the middle valve block and still get the fault C1A20 (Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir.)

I did a recheck of the pump output and 20 bar was easily reached, I also put my pressure gauge inline on the pipe from the middle valve block to the air tank to see if any pressure was coming from the new valve block to the air tank and no pressure was seen, I did a soapy water test of the new valve block with no leaks showing.

Before I started the investigation the fault had been on for 3-4 days whilst I waited for the rain to stop and all 4 corners were at normal ride height
I did removed fuse 26 before jacking up the car and only reinserted the fuse if I was testing to see if the fault code had cleared, then removed the fuse when the fault code returned to avoid the any movement,

So I put the D3 back on all 4 wheels, it was jacked up front near side and rear near side whilst I looked at the pump and middle valve block, now the rear suspension is down on both sides whilst the front is still ok, so not sure why the back is down, I was going to look at the front valve block as most posts look to check that and nearside front wheel arch connectors and air line, but the back being down has thrown a curved ball so not sure where is best to go next - any help would be appreciated
thanks
 D3 4.4 V8 2005 sadly now gone
Freelander 2 i6 HSE now gone was a very good 4x4
Triumph TR8 


Last edited by 1powerrack on 6th Mar 2024 5:42 pm. Edited 3 times in total 
Post #23637036th Mar 2024 4:26 pm
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Pete K
 


Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10367

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Rimini RedDiscovery 3

If you know how to use the key (LR button and (un)lock) together to raise the suspection, give that a go.

You have to program the LR button for suspension first.
And have the hazzards on, while pressing the key buttons
  
Post #23637126th Mar 2024 5:18 pm
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Pete K
 


Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10367

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Rimini RedDiscovery 3

have a look at the diagnostic table here

https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/fault-code-...ight=C1A20

Part of me things the tank has a leak in it (rust), but people usually hear that.
  
Post #23637136th Mar 2024 5:20 pm
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1powerrack
 


Member Since: 09 Nov 2014
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 149

England 

Hello Pete,
never done the (LR button and (un)lock) together to raise the suspension I will have to find the post on how to do that, but I will give it a go, whilst doing this fault I changed the tank for a new LR one, the one I took off did have rust on it which made me think the tank was at fault

I have read that post thanks, trouble with these faults you can end up a huge pile Land Rover parts on the drive and when you look round all you have is an empty shell

thanks
Glenn
 D3 4.4 V8 2005 sadly now gone
Freelander 2 i6 HSE now gone was a very good 4x4
Triumph TR8 
 
Post #23637156th Mar 2024 5:30 pm
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