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disco4ever
Member Since: 23 Dec 2013
Location: under the car
Posts: 402
  
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| socket size of crank shaft bolt |
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I am gearing up to do the timing belt.
What size of socket is needed to undo the crank shaft bolt?
[img]http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/38816/Crankshaft_Front_Seal.bmp[/img] Achim
own garage certified LR tech
Disco 2 TD5 MY 2001 - gone but still driven by another owner
Defender 110 TD5 driving me bananas with all faults
Disco 3 TDV 6 HSE MY 2005 gone @280.000 km
Disco 4 SDV 6 HSE MY 2012
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 14th May 2016 11:02 am |
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DN
D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2293
  
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21mm, or 13/16" AF, you need a good quality single hexagon (not bi hex) 1/2" or 3/4" drive socket. .....(Assuming that you want to change the oil pump and timing belt etc, and not JUST the timing belt).  D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
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| 14th May 2016 11:27 am |
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Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
 
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I’m looking at this but do I need M14 or the M16 set ? Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
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| 15th Apr 2019 8:16 pm |
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Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
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thanks mikey
im guessing its best to change this when doing the oil pump and timing Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
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| 15th Apr 2019 8:44 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10355
 
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Its a stretch bolt so yes!
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| 15th Apr 2019 8:49 pm |
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Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
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Thanks Pete, any other bits you can think of i will need to do oil pump, coolant pump, timing gear and rear belt ???? Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
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| 15th Apr 2019 8:51 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10355
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Crank seal from LR
A very long bar to undo bolt.
Something to insert the seal
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| 15th Apr 2019 9:11 pm |
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Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
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got a long 1/2 breaker bar was going to get a crank seal from advance or do you think im best with LR
not got anything yet for inserting the seal to the correct depth but am looking Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
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| 15th Apr 2019 9:16 pm |
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Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
 
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You dont need to remove the crank bolt if you are doing timing belts!
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| 15th Apr 2019 10:27 pm |
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Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
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Dazz360 wrote:Thanks Pete, any other bits you can think of i will need to do oil pump, coolant pump, timing gear and rear belt ????
CHANGING OIL PUMP BECAUSE NOT SURE OF HISTORY Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
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| 15th Apr 2019 10:46 pm |
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Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
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Dont kid yourself, swapping out the oil pump is a major job.
The timing belt swap out is easy, going the next step and doing the oil pump, is a hard job, I was going to do it, but I couldn't workout how you could fit in the flywheel locking pin.
If you have not got access to a hoist, it is nearly impossible to access the rear of the flywheel to pin it.
Then their is the issue of installing the oil seal correctly.
My local indie has never seen a oil pump tensioner fail yet, but has worked on several cars that leak oil after a weekend wally tried the DIY option on the oil pump swap out.
save yourself a headache and pay the $$$ and let the professionals do it.
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| 15th Apr 2019 10:48 pm |
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Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
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Thanks for the advice and I see your point but I’m no weekend wally for starters and do have access too a hoist at work, I was looking at buying a timing kit but for £25 I can hire everything needed to do the job correctly Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
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| 15th Apr 2019 11:10 pm |
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Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
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best of British luck.
I purchased locking kit as well, but I could not work out how you can get to the lockout point on the flywheel and physically install the pin.
I reckon it is a 2-3 day job with a good run.
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| 15th Apr 2019 11:15 pm |
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ibruceuk
Member Since: 20 Mar 2018
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 105
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I did it in just over a day and that was with some issued with the alternator bracket which was seized.
The locking pin is easy, drop the starter out (well shove it up out of the way) and pop the locking tool in - simples
Just take your time, particularly when re-assembling
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| 16th Apr 2019 12:38 am |
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