hotshot
Member Since: 02 Oct 2017
Location: lincoln
Posts: 81
  
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Any suggestions please? 2007 2.7tdv6, egr blanked and turned off. No other mods.
I've had this problem ever since I bought the car but more or less lived with it.
I've just replaced the timing belt and oil pump and took the opportunity to check the intercooler hoses over (I'd replaced the drivers side one anyway but both are ok and it doesn't look like the intercooler leaks at all
The turbo actuator is very loose, like it's not doing anything but does move when I tell it to with iid or turn the ignition on - I'm told that's how it should be but I do wonder if it's moving the vanes at all - that would certainly explain the symptoms.
The boost pressure looks ok to me in live data and there is no black smoke. But I find myself in 2nd on some hills even if they're not all that steep.
Just my guessing but I'd say either the maf is bad or the vanes aren't moving (broken pin / arm) and the map sensor is reading higher than reality (or all three) but I'd be very grateful for any more suggestions
I don't have any fault codes or other symptoms, it drives perfect apart from hills (maybe not a racing car from a standing start but I'd consider that to be the same problem)
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 6th Oct 2020 10:44 am |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10362
 
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If you force the turbo arm to one extreme (in?) and give it a little rev, and listen to it after you let the throttle off, and then do the same with the other extreame, you should be able to hear the difference, that will tell you if its connected.
Don't rev it hard, at its not good for it. But it will prove the point its connected to the veins
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| 6th Oct 2020 12:46 pm |
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hotshot
Member Since: 02 Oct 2017
Location: lincoln
Posts: 81
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Good thinking  gotta be worth a try
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| 6th Oct 2020 1:36 pm |
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hotshot
Member Since: 02 Oct 2017
Location: lincoln
Posts: 81
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I haven't had a look yet so not much to report except a couple of things I've noticed with iid;
The exhaust gas temp says 100.0c all the time, is that the iid can't read the temp or is the sensor faulty?
And, calculated load value says n/a - is that normal or a result of the above? (No fault codes).
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| 11th Oct 2020 3:41 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10362
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There isn’t a temp sensor on these
Not sure about the other
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| 11th Oct 2020 6:35 pm |
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hotshot
Member Since: 02 Oct 2017
Location: lincoln
Posts: 81
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A final update on this, I finally got around to fitting a new turbo cartridge. After a bit of tuning of the actuator stop screw, I have increased the performance a bit (seems there wasn't anything wrong with the original turbo).
Sadly, I couldn't find any info about a correct way to adjust the screw but can tell you anti-clockwise closes the vanes more and therefore gasses reach the turbine traveling faster and therefore increase the boost. I'd suggest small adjustments of 1/2 turn at a time, this can be done with the metal splash plate removed below engine. Slacken the locknut with a deep 10mm socket on long extensions (around 18") and I used a screwdriver bit (3mm allen) in a bit holder on the end of the same lot of extensions - the top was a "wobbler" to allow for the fact you can't get straight on to the screw it's fiddly but easy enough. Once I'd made an adjustment, I held the screw in its new position with the extensions etc and used a very long screwdriver to "flick" the locknut clockwise to finger tight before switching back to the 10mm socket to nip it up - that way, you don't risk screwing the screw in with the nut and you can keep track of what you've done so you can go back if you want to.
Now, to complicate matters, I think the actuator moves it's full travel when you turn the ignition on so it knows where 0% and 100% are. So, you're adjusting a sliding scale and not just a maximum. 100% seems to be 100% closed, for reference and 0% would be fully open and that end isn't adjustable, it's a little stop pin inside the turbo. So, as you move the 100% further away, what was 10% could now be 8% and so on - so, it adjusts the whole range which is how you can run into problems with overboost as the turbo is moving more air than the ecu expects for 3000rpm and 20% actuator (for example) because 20% isn't where 20% should be, it's where 30% should be - hopefully that makes sense.
It does seem to be quite forgiving though, I've gone from limp mode because the vanes couldn't close enough to better than ever in about 6 full turns and had no faults or limp mode at all, I may try a little bit more just out of curiosity but I'm happy as it is and hope my findings help someone
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| 14th Jul 2021 7:56 pm |
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