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stamponbunnies
Member Since: 12 Apr 2014
Location: Midlands
Posts: 8
  
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Not all additives are the same, PTFE based stuff is probably ok in an old design engine whose tolerances are sloppy in comparison to the newer stuff. Personally, I choose not use it in my D3 as there is plenty heresay ( don't have a degree in chemical engineering ) that suggests its not a great idea in an engine that is not as repairable as older units (my unmolested Discovery 1 200Tdi is still going strong at 225000).
I am however guilty of using additives in oil. I have used a product that looks like the worst kind of QVC tat, it's called Xtralube ZX1 ( I know....). Used in motorcycle wet clutch gearboxes, two stroke engines, four stroke engines, the much maligned LT77 box on my 200 (the original box, never taken off the car), axles, transfer and swivels.
The two stroke is a 50cc manual race rep that has its neck wrung when ridden by me, it's Italian and I have eaten far too many pies. It's on the original piston, barrel and ring, original clutch, second chainset and is 11years old.
I do not work for the manufacturer, retailer or any one else representing the product. I use the fabulous Millers oils in my diesel engines, this makes a significant difference to the cleanliness and longevity of the engine and there is a correct grade for the D3 (5w30 C2). I have also put in the Xtralube. All is well.
I like to keep my kit working for as long as possible in the best condition possible. If I work on a diesel vehicle is has those two products put in them. I ran a Yorker diesel transit with the same suff and it was at 319000 when I sold it without concern as it was still breezing through the emissions test.
Sorry for the essay. I hope you guys and girls find this usefull. I'm putting on the Kevlar .......
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 23rd Jun 2014 6:07 pm |
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mattm
Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 122
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The only one I would (and do) use is Molyslip. As an engineer in the oil industry, I can quite clearly see the potential science behind the theory and is has made my car slightly smoother and I *think* Im getting a bit better MPG.
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| 23rd Jun 2014 8:34 pm |
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Saiyuki
Member Since: 25 Feb 2018
Location: Oxford
Posts: 4
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Hi everyone, I have used slick 50 in the past, on a Mk2 escort x flow as well as a cavalier TD. I had good results in smooth acceleration and minor fuel efficiency gains... However, having said that, I would be very wary on using with the V6TD, slick 50 coats the entire engine with a coating that reduced friction. The oil ways on a Mk2 x flow are MUCH bigger than the Jag V6 TD thats in the D3.... personally, I would just use the best oil you can get, make sure its fully synthetic and change the oil filter and oil regularly.
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| 3rd Mar 2018 11:17 am |
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darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2863
  
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When I purchased my almost new D3 back in 2007 - it was 8 months old and the guy i bought it from told me with great glee that he had changed the oil at 6,000 miles and it had had Slick 50 added to it so the engine would last forever (old chap) I continued to change oil and filter every 6,000 miles and except for 3 or 3 occasions never towed with it. The car was used for a mix of mainly long drives and local journeys.
It spun a bearing at around 230,000 miles, so it either obviously doesn't have any effect on engine wear as everyone else who has had issues with TDV6 engines seem to be around similar mileages, or it made my bearing last a lot longer than it would have done and it would have spun much earlier
Not scientific or any more than a sample of 1 vehicle but in my opinion it didn't do any good for me.
If you use it let us know how it goes.... Must stop buying shiny toys....
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| 3rd Mar 2018 12:24 pm |
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G_Cam
Member Since: 12 Aug 2010
Location: Fife
Posts: 2048
 
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Tried it twice back in the glory days..
Both engines went bang soon after I added it.. Lots of theories... I rebuilt the engines one broke the crank a mere 15 years later iirc with no Slick 50 added...
Both cars were pushed hard the latter being used for the Historic rally Championship including full stage rallys such as the Scottish.. Its still being used by a fellow D3 Member 
So the answer is.. very very clear... I have no idea!
I guess I never bought it again... but I come from the time when a 'fancy electronic gadget' was advertised as having 'Transistors' and long range communication was via an Amateur Radio band..
And if you wanted a computer ... nae chance... I built mine.. a Z80 with 4Kb or ram....
I Think we always search for something truly magic and different... and Slick 50 is the same I guess as they still sell it... However I cant see me going back and using a ZX80 aany more than risking Slick 50 in Land Rover Engine... 1 TR6 Rusting away quietly
1 FARR UTV SOLD
1 International Harvester SOLD
7 x D3 all SOLD
2 x D4 both SOLD
1 x Mrs D4 'Panther' SOLD
1 x Outlander van SOLD
1 continual stream of car parts and me living in the garage...
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| 3rd Mar 2018 12:38 pm |
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mattm
Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 122
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I say again,
Don't use slick 50, but would consider molyslip. IMO molybdenum is much more suited to the job (its added to most steel alloys to improve machinability etc, its also used extensively as an anti-friction coating on a variety of industrial applications. In fact IIRC most new camshafts are coated with it to prevent wiping out a lobe during initial break-in.
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| 3rd Mar 2018 2:18 pm |
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lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
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SkyBear wrote:I slick 50'd a volvo 7 series. Was in market harborough when I had to get home in the middle of the night for a family medical emergency back to Bristol. 20 miles into trip I had an oil light, looking underneath I had lost the sump plug, never did find out how. No other option but to carry on, figured I would make it to next town and try to find some other transport.
Did not hesitate at all so continued onto next town thinking getting closer all the time so good thing. In the end I had to stop on the motorway as the hundred mile an hour drive without oil had finally caused some of the insulation to stink from the front of the car.
Opened the bonnet and the headers where glowing bits of plastic where melting, figured *uck it and continued after pulling bits of melted crap off and leaving it on the hard shoulder. I continued all the way home like that to the hospital. A week later having replaced sump plug and filling with oil I was driving it again. Carried on for some time with seemingly no adverse effects, that is till a quarry lorry rammed me at traffic lights and totalled it.
Did it work, for me yes as no other way an engine could have survived that as far as I'm concerned.
Sounds real good, tell me why did you bother refilling it with oil?
Just thinking if it could still do the magic ton there was obviously no need for oil 
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| 3rd Mar 2018 3:47 pm |
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