Member Since: 17 May 2017
Location: London
Posts: 97
Servicing compressor dryer/filter
Hi all
From time to time I have the "Normal height only" error and the following fault logged :
"C1A20 - Pressure increasing too slowly when filling reservoir."
It doesn't happen all the time but often does on the first drive of the day. (FYI I have left the car in off-road height overnight and it's still exactly at the same height in the morning.)
I am planning to replace the desiccant, filters and dryer cap (aluminium replacement from x8r) and have a few questions you might be able to help with :
1. I am hoping to remove the dryer body from the compressor leaving the compressor in the car; do I need to depressurise the system before I remove the pipes from the red and blue connectors? I'm aware there is potentially high pressure in the system so want to make sure I take the right safety precautions.
2. I assume the car needs to be off its wheels on axle stands or similar (I have a scissor lift)?
3. Should I disconnect the battery or leave the car in any particular suspension height before I start?
Look forward to any help
Cheers
Mark
4th Feb 2020 1:41 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13649
Hi
Personally I would
1) Put the vehicle into off road height
2) Pull fuse F26 in the engine bays fuse box , which disables the suspension
3) fit axle stands
4) remove lower cover
5) depressurise system, can be done using a Gap iid, or slowly loosing off a fitting on the reservoir valve, until u stop hearing air coming out , ref number 9 in diagram
Use a smear of silicone grease when fitting a new O ring that the dryer body fits onto , also ensuring the dryer body is clean and free from any debris
Personally wouldn’t ever use the scissor jack that comes with the landy , u just need the landy in off road height without removing wheels , but indeed must always use axle stands
As an important note , be very careful as when u reinstall the F26 fuse in the engine bay the disco will drop down to its bump stops
Hope that helps
Click image to enlarge
Last edited by gstuart on 4th Feb 2020 3:47 pm. Edited 3 times in total
4th Feb 2020 2:03 pm
spiderlane
Member Since: 17 May 2017
Location: London
Posts: 97
Hi gstuart
Thanks for your speedy reply. Oh god no, I'd never use the widow maker scissor jack to do anything! I mean I have a hydraulic scissor lift (with mechanical latch), which means I can lift the car up off it's wheels in one go.
I was thinking that I might need to take the weight off the air springs but I think you're saying that even when I've depressurised/removed the pipes the car will remain in the offroad height until I replace the F26 fuse?
I have a GAP IIDTool, so thanks for the tip about depressurising with that, didn't realise it could do that.
Thanks again
Mark
4th Feb 2020 2:09 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13649
Hi mark
Ur very welcome , actually just thought u don’t need to remove the dryer body but can rebuild it in situ , know sometimes the screw that holds the dryer body on can sometimes be rusted
Wasn’t sure ref the scissor jack and indeed lethal , sounds a lot better what u have
Axle stands will take any weight as u depressurise the system if ur using an iid, ur won’t need to jack the disco up, just have it in off road height with the axle stands
Glad it helped
Last edited by gstuart on 4th Feb 2020 5:07 pm. Edited 1 time in total
4th Feb 2020 2:12 pm
spiderlane
Member Since: 17 May 2017
Location: London
Posts: 97
I wanted to replace the desiccant granules and filters as well as the cap, so I thought I'd need to remove the dryer body to get it upright?
On the IIDTool I assume I want "Deflate modes - Deflate All" first, do the work, and then "Re-Enable EAS" when I've finished?
Cheers
Mark
4th Feb 2020 3:41 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13649
Indeed , very true and would make life easier , along getting the dryer cap screws out
Think there’s different deflate programs in the iid, see if I can find it
Last edited by gstuart on 4th Feb 2020 3:56 pm. Edited 1 time in total
4th Feb 2020 3:49 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13649
Deflation allows safe removal of air suspension components. Three deflation modes are available.
• Deflate Corners (all 4 air springs)
• Deflate Reservoir
• Deflate All
Note: Use the Re-Enable EAS function to return to normal operations.
Must admit would do the same as u also suggest, deflate all and then re enable , at least then u know the air is out , then crack that nut ,ref number 9 , open to double check it’s 100% deflated
4th Feb 2020 3:56 pm
charlietortoise
Member Since: 29 Oct 2011
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 502
Simple to do
Hi, I did this without removing the pump and without any need to depressurise the system or mess with the IID. Also I didn't jack the car I just drove it onto a couple of chocks preferring the surety of it sitting on its wheels. I did chock the chassis just in case but all was ok. I did a write up if you do a search you will find it.Discovery 4 3.0 HSE 2010 year. I like it a lot. Now with winch 😂
4th Feb 2020 9:43 pm
charlietortoise
Member Since: 29 Oct 2011
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 502
1. Put the car into off-road height. I didn't remove the air suspension fuse but left the drivers door open in an attempt to stop the car trying to level itself.
2. I have the luxury of a hydraulic scissor lift (with mechanical locking) which means I'm able to lift the whole car in one go so I lifted it off it's wheels just in case something went wrong and it dropped the suspension (and to give better access to the compressor)
Click image to enlarge
3. Removed the lower cover compressor. The bolt at the back was slightly rusted but I managed to just about crack it off without rounding out the torx head.
4. I didn't de-pressurise using the IID in the end but I did open up the nut number 9 from Stuart's diagram as a precaution; no air came out.
5. Unclipped the 2 electrical connectors and removed both pipes from the end of the dryer. The smaller red one was tricky but came out in the end. Unclipped the smaller pipe from the groove in the dryer cap.
6. Undid the dryer fastening screw as outlined by Charlie using the same method of Philips screwdriver bit and small spanner. Slow, fiddly and laborious but do-able.
7. Squirted a bit of silicon lube around the dryer bayonet and rotated it counter-clockwise. Unlike Charlie mine came away pretty easily by working it back and forth a few times.
8. Cleaned the spigot and fitted the new O ring with a smear of silicon lubricant.
9. Fitted the replacement dryer. Getting the Philips screw back in was tricky but a small blob of blu-tack helped stick it to the screwdriver bit to help manoeuvring it into place.
10. Replaced both pipes, tightened up nut number 9 and replaced electrical connectors.
11. Brought car down off the lift and tested by spraying soapy water over the various connection points and moving the car between off-road/access height a few times. All worked fine with no signs of leaks
Getting the old unit on the bench showed what the problem was. The desiccant and filters were in good condition…
Click image to enlarge
…but the tell-tale hairline crack was there.…
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
The reason I was glad to have a replacement dyer ready to fit was because one of the dryer cap screw heads had rusted so that the inside wouldn't take the torx bit. I had to grind it off on the end and I would struggled to find a replacement screw over the weekend I think. (Probably could have lived with one screw missing for a while I suppose).
Anyway I'm pretty pleased with the job. Just need to wait and see if the warning message re-appears.
Thanks again to Stuart, Charlie and Mick for the help (and parts)
Cheers
Mark
9th Feb 2020 11:21 am
eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 762
gstuart wrote:
Hi
Ur very welcome and glad it helped , indeed , great forum and someone will always help
Plse let us know how u get on
don't fancy fixing mine do you as I've done just about everything I can think of to fix my reservoir fault and still cant find anything wrong, its beginning to bug me now any suggestions greatly receivedplease excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
9th Feb 2020 1:25 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13649
Hiya
Have u got a thread running plse so can re read it and see what stage ur at
Will certainly try , also have u got ur own diagnostics or had it plugged in
Thks
9th Feb 2020 8:33 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13649
spiderlane wrote:
I completed the job yesterday and it went pretty much as expected, thanks in no small part to knowing exactly what to expect from the advice above.
1. Put the car into off-road height. I didn't remove the air suspension fuse but left the drivers door open in an attempt to stop the car trying to level itself.
2. I have the luxury of a hydraulic scissor lift (with mechanical locking) which means I'm able to lift the whole car in one go so I lifted it off it's wheels just in case something went wrong and it dropped the suspension (and to give better access to the compressor)
Click image to enlarge
3. Removed the lower cover compressor. The bolt at the back was slightly rusted but I managed to just about crack it off without rounding out the torx head.
4. I didn't de-pressurise using the IID in the end but I did open up the nut number 9 from Stuart's diagram as a precaution; no air came out.
5. Unclipped the 2 electrical connectors and removed both pipes from the end of the dryer. The smaller red one was tricky but came out in the end. Unclipped the smaller pipe from the groove in the dryer cap.
6. Undid the dryer fastening screw as outlined by Charlie using the same method of Philips screwdriver bit and small spanner. Slow, fiddly and laborious but do-able.
7. Squirted a bit of silicon lube around the dryer bayonet and rotated it counter-clockwise. Unlike Charlie mine came away pretty easily by working it back and forth a few times.
8. Cleaned the spigot and fitted the new O ring with a smear of silicon lubricant.
9. Fitted the replacement dryer. Getting the Philips screw back in was tricky but a small blob of blu-tack helped stick it to the screwdriver bit to help manoeuvring it into place.
10. Replaced both pipes, tightened up nut number 9 and replaced electrical connectors.
11. Brought car down off the lift and tested by spraying soapy water over the various connection points and moving the car between off-road/access height a few times. All worked fine with no signs of leaks
Getting the old unit on the bench showed what the problem was. The desiccant and filters were in good condition…
Click image to enlarge
…but the tell-tale hairline crack was there.…
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
The reason I was glad to have a replacement dyer ready to fit was because one of the dryer cap screw heads had rusted so that the inside wouldn't take the torx bit. I had to grind it off on the end and I would struggled to find a replacement screw over the weekend I think. (Probably could have lived with one screw missing for a while I suppose).
Anyway I'm pretty pleased with the job. Just need to wait and see if the warning message re-appears.
Thanks again to Stuart, Charlie and Mick for the help (and parts)
Cheers
Mark
Hi mark
Ur very welcome and indeed a team effort , Will chuffed for u that it’s back up and running
Scissor lift sounds a fantastic bit of kit to have
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