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10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
  
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so you're saying that you can provide 50% extra capacity beyond the rating of the batteries (regardless of when and how they are connected, at some point they are in parallel and therefore effectively form one large storage device) love to know how you get this to work - as would the worlds storage battery manufacturers.... 90Ah + 55Ah still equals 145Ah - unless you're using alien technology!
'bigging up' your product is fine - don't bulls hit though!
Just to jog your memory... http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic16399.html
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 12th Dec 2007 1:56 am |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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10forcash wrote:so you're saying that you can provide 50% extra capacity beyond the rating of the batteries (regardless of when and how they are connected, at some point they are in parallel and therefore effectively form one large storage device) love to know how you get this to work - as would the worlds storage battery manufacturers.... 90Ah + 55Ah still equals 145Ah - unless you're using alien technology!
'bigging up' your product is fine - don't bulls hit though!
Just to jog your memory... http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic16399.html
Not sure what school you went to and even though you have it back to front, but 55 and 90 = 145 and is slightly higher than a 50% increase on the 90 A/H battery.
The problem is that it’s the auxiliary battery we are talking about and if you have a 55 A/H auxiliary battery and you draw an additional 35 A/H off the cranking battery while using the auxiliary battery and allowing for not taking the auxiliary battery below 11 volts, this gives you a net increase of more than 50% to your auxiliary battery's operating capacity.
No BS, just simple math, try learning some.
Cheers. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 12th Dec 2007 2:26 am |
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pbhawkin
Member Since: 14 Dec 2006
Location: Mudgee
Posts: 377
 
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 AHHH
So your device, Drivesafe, allows current to be drawn from the 55A/h auxillary up to a point where it would be potentially damaging to drain further (without charging) then switches and allows the current to be drawn off the MAIN battery up to (about) 35A/h but also ensuring that the main battery is not lowered below 11 volts. Is that correct? regards
Peter
__________________________________________
Oct 2013 SDV6 3.0 HSE.
2007 TDV6 SE E-diff, adaptive lights sold 1/2014
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| 12th Dec 2007 4:16 am |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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pbhawkin wrote: AHHH
So your device, Drivesafe, allows current to be drawn from the 55A/h auxillary up to a point where it would be potentially damaging to drain further (without charging) then switches and allows the current to be drawn off the MAIN battery up to (about) 35A/h but also ensuring that the main battery is not lowered below 11 volts. Is that correct?
Hi pbhawkin, No, some what the other way around.
When the motor is turned off, unlike other DBS, the SC40-LR keeps the cranking battery and the auxiliary battery connected, powering all the accessories from both batteries.
Once the common voltage drop to 12.25, the cranking battery is isolated and the accessories continue to be powered by the auxiliary battery.
The SC40-LR does not protect the auxiliary battery, my reference to the 11 volts is a recommended lowest point below which the battery should not be used.
Most fridges with automatic cut-out, do so at about 10.5 but as the cut-out usually occurs while the fridge is running, once it cuts out and the load is removed from the battery, the battery will normally settle back up to near 11 volts, hence the reference to 11 volts.
Cheers 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 12th Dec 2007 4:48 am |
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norto
Member Since: 10 Apr 2006
Location: batemans bay
Posts: 1605
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Drivesafe
This system looks good,
any discount for forum members 
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| 12th Dec 2007 8:18 am |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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norto wrote:any discount for forum members
Hi norto, as all my kits are discounted by up to 20% over the price of buying the parts individually, I can’t give any discounts on the kits themselves.
BUT, as I am getting quite a bit of work from the site, I am happy to do what I have done with a couple of other sites and give site members a 10% of any parts they may need.
Cheers. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 12th Dec 2007 9:25 am |
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xtc
Member Since: 27 Mar 2007
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 1072
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Quote...
"keeps the cranking battery and the auxiliary battery connected, powering all the accessories from both batteries.
Once the common voltage drop to 12.25, the cranking battery is isolated and the accessories continue to be powered by the auxiliary battery"
The unit I posted also does exactly this, thus using the cranking battery down to a predetermined level. Whether this is by chance or design I have no idea. It also allows you to manually connect the batteries if the cranking one is flat. This link is rated at 300amps... My last word on the subject, lets all have a nice day....
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| 12th Dec 2007 10:37 am |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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xtc wrote:The unit I posted also does exactly this, thus using the cranking battery down to a predetermined level. Whether this is by chance or design I have no idea. It also allows you to manually connect the batteries if the cranking one is flat. This link is rated at 300amps... My last word on the subject, lets all have a nice day....
Hi xtc, all DBS work this way, including the SC40, the difference is that all other DBS cut out at around 12.9 volts and this is what they are designed to do as it leaves the cranking battery in a fully charged state ( fully charged batteries have a settled voltage of 12.8 to 12.9 ), while the SC40-LR cuts out at 12.25 volts.
In the case of your DBS and all the others, no stored power is drawn from the cranking battery, again this is how the are designed to operate.
The SC40 is designed to exploit the surplus unused power available from any cranking battery and this is the prime advantage the SC40 gives you over all other DBS.
Cheers 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 12th Dec 2007 11:31 am |
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disco4x4au
Member Since: 19 Jan 2006
Location: Perth
Posts: 409
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xtc wrote:The unit I posted also does exactly this, thus using the cranking battery down to a predetermined level.
but in reply, Drivesafe said:
drivesafe wrote:
In the case of your DBS and all the others, no stored power is drawn from the cranking battery, again this is how the are designed to operate.
so I'm confused ................  ex - 2006 D3 TDV6 SE, silver, with lots of stuff - R.I.P.
ex - 2009 D3 TDV6 SE, silver, had lots of stuff too!
Now - 2010 RRS 3.0 TDV6, rimini red, 18" rims + Cooper LTZ, rear eLocker, Spider tuning box, GOE protection plates and rock sliders, GOE 3way shortened rods.
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| 12th Dec 2007 11:59 pm |
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Gareth
Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26701
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We all are, I think this thread has run its course 
Everyone seems happy with their installations, so they are all obviously right for their applications.
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| 13th Dec 2007 12:03 am |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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disco4x4au wrote:xtc wrote:The unit I posted also does exactly this, thus using the cranking battery down to a predetermined level.
but in reply, Drivesafe said:
drivesafe wrote:
In the case of your DBS and all the others, no stored power is drawn from the cranking battery, again this is how the are designed to operate.
so I'm confused ................
Hi disco4x4au, when you have been driving for a while and then stop the motor, using a multi meter, the battery will initially give a reading of as much 14 volts.
This high voltage reading is due to a condition called the Surface Charge.
If you have nothing at all connected to the battery once the motor is off, over the next 24 to 48 hours, the battery voltage, if the battery is fully charged, will settle back to a voltage of 12.8 to 12.9.
If, when you turned off the motor, there is any load still applied to the battery, even the small load required to power a solenoid type DBS, the battery will settle back to a full charged state much quicker, usually anything from a few minutes to around an hour or so.
If you have a fridge connected then it will take much shorter time for the surface voltage to be used.
In any of the above cases, most DBS will shut down at 12.9 as this is the point at which the battery is accepted to be left in a full charged state ( theoretically in a 100% State of Charge )
Hope this explanation gives meaning to the other post.
Cheers 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
Last edited by drivesafe on 13th Dec 2007 8:58 am. Edited 1 time in total
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| 13th Dec 2007 12:56 am |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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BTW, one of the main the reasons that DBS makers set up their devices with the 12.9 voltage level is to first make sure they leave the battery fully charged and, because all batteries, once a load is removed, will have their internal voltage settle up to a higher level.
If the load on the battery was a large one when the isolator cut out, the battery, in an extreme case, could settle back up to the cut in level of the isolator and you could end up with a situation where the isolator is made to oscillate on and off for a while until the actual battery voltage drops enough to stop the oscillation.
This is why good DBS manufacturers set the cut out level as low as practical, 12.9 volts.
Cheers 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 13th Dec 2007 1:13 am |
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