Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Rusty D3 sills
Right removed offside sill cover today to remove some unused brackets and found the rear end of the sill a little crispy around some of the unused fixing holes, I would describe them as fraying at the edges
Didnt take pics but will try and do nearside tomorrow and will take pics.
Its not heavy rust by any stretch of the imagination but its there and its started, I think the biggest issue is the little wavey bits in the lower edge panel where it meets the inner sill panel the gaps are simply to small 1.5/2mm so easily clog up this making a trap.
So if you have the inclination I would urge you to take a look under the sill covers and act whilst you still can.
11th Mar 2017 7:25 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13595
funny enough i had a look the other day
after i had taken out the front inner wheel arch to replace the front valve block i noticed a lot of leaves, mud etc shine the cover
so carried on and checked the sill covers
they've all been unsealed , did notice on the drivers side a slight dent which has put some of the holes out of line for any possible chance of fitting rock sliders
before i fitted the inner arch back i did spray in there with dinotrol , made sure it was all cleaned out first and dry
may i ask what are u going to do with ur sills , do u think land rover will start making new metal sill replacements if this becomes an issue
wonder if it's worth drilling some bigger drainage holes
12th Mar 2017 3:13 am
MGCarr
Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 703
lynalldiscovery
Thanks for the heads up on this I will put it on my to do list for when the weather picks up a bit, with the current uncertainties around what the government and local mayors may do about diesel engined vehicles my intention is to hang on to my D3, which I thoroughly enjoy, for as long as it takes until the uncertainties are resolved, rather than spending my money on a newer car that might have what turns out to be the wrong fuel technology.
1997 Defender 90 for the kids and I to have a go at some competitive off road RTV and Tyro trials, daughter picked up her first trophy over the August Bank Holiday.
Previous Land Rover history
1996 P38 4.6 V8 Autobiography
1996 Discovery TDi 300
1972 Range Rover 3.5 V8
LWB Hard Top Series 3
LWB Truck Cab Series 2A
Not been without a Land Rover for over 40 years - I must need therapy!
12th Mar 2017 4:16 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
gstuart wrote:
funny enough i had a look the other day
after i had taken out the front inner wheel arch to replace the front valve block i noticed a lot of leaves, mud etc shine the cover
so carried on and checked the sill covers
they've all been unsealed , did notice on the drivers side a slight dent which has put some of the holes out of line for any possible chance of fitting rock sliders
before i fitted the inner arch back i did spray in there with dinotrol , made sure it was all cleaned out first and dry
may i ask what are u going to do with ur sills , do u think land rover will start making new metal sill replacements if this becomes an issue
wonder if it's worth drilling some bigger drainage holes
I had a few tins of aerosol wire and chain lube, I use the same gear to spray the brake pipes, works well so far, so the sills got a good blasting inside and the lower areas and the little bottom wavy bits got a puff of grease into each slat.
I dont think the drain holes are the issue and I would be wary of any heavy wax as its bound to block the little slats and other small drain holes.
I did notice the drain holes for the body mount looked very small and from other pic Ive seen this could also be an issue in the future.
I think in the summer Im going to have to do the whole car, I like Morris Ankor wax but think its still to thick for the sills, might try it mixed with some engine oil to stop it setting.
12th Mar 2017 6:17 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
MGCarr wrote:
lynalldiscovery
Thanks for the heads up on this I will put it on my to do list for when the weather picks up a bit, with the current uncertainties around what the government and local mayors may do about diesel engined vehicles my intention is to hang on to my D3, which I thoroughly enjoy, for as long as it takes until the uncertainties are resolved, rather than spending my money on a newer car that might have what turns out to be the wrong fuel technology.
I forgot to mention the rear of the sill is held on with two screws and the upper one was seized solid and was a bit of a sod to remove.
12th Mar 2017 6:18 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Some pics of whats festering behind your sills
Nearside had the most mud/dirt, I guess because its in the gutter most of the time?
12th Mar 2017 11:23 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Actual sill itself at the bottom, like I said above fraying at the edges is a good description the actual metal is sound its just the edges where the protection is poor and of course once it starts!
12th Mar 2017 11:26 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10355
gstuart wrote:
funny enough i had a look the other day
after i had taken out the front inner wheel arch to replace the front valve block i noticed a lot of leaves, mud etc
Wait till you see what's behind the rear wheel arches
12th Mar 2017 11:42 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13595
pete k
think that's the next job in removing the rear inner arches
wonder if i should get some mud flaps , don't know how much it may prevent a lot of it being collected
12th Mar 2017 3:22 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13595
lynalldiscovery wrote:
gstuart wrote:
funny enough i had a look the other day
after i had taken out the front inner wheel arch to replace the front valve block i noticed a lot of leaves, mud etc shine the cover
so carried on and checked the sill covers
they've all been unsealed , did notice on the drivers side a slight dent which has put some of the holes out of line for any possible chance of fitting rock sliders
before i fitted the inner arch back i did spray in there with dinotrol , made sure it was all cleaned out first and dry
may i ask what are u going to do with ur sills , do u think land rover will start making new metal sill replacements if this becomes an issue
wonder if it's worth drilling some bigger drainage holes
I had a few tins of aerosol wire and chain lube, I use the same gear to spray the brake pipes, works well so far, so the sills got a good blasting inside and the lower areas and the little bottom wavy bits got a puff of grease into each slat.
I dont think the drain holes are the issue and I would be wary of any heavy wax as its bound to block the little slats and other small drain holes.
I did notice the drain holes for the body mount looked very small and from other pic Ive seen this could also be an issue in the future.
I think in the summer Im going to have to do the whole car, I like Morris Ankor wax but think its still to thick for the sills, might try it mixed with some engine oil to stop it setting.
sound like you've got ur hands full
in one sense good that you've picked it up now
do u think fitting side steps etc may contribute to the sills being in that condition or just one of those things
12th Mar 2017 3:27 pm
sean 471
Member Since: 26 Apr 2011
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 2990
What's keeping the sill covers on?
Or do they just pull off?
12th Mar 2017 3:53 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13595
sean
clips on the side
bolts underneath
think there's also fixings on the end in the rear wheel arch
12th Mar 2017 4:09 pm
sean 471
Member Since: 26 Apr 2011
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 2990
Thanks
12th Mar 2017 4:20 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
gstuart wrote:
sean
clips on the side
bolts underneath
think there's also fixings on the end in the rear wheel arch
No bolts on mine
Top length is held on with them silly little button clips
Whole bottom length is held on with expanding fir tree clips
Rear has two flange headed self tappers into spring clips.
12th Mar 2017 5:45 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8057
I take the nylon buttons off one at a time and squirt old engine oil in with a traditional oil can, just make sure you don't park on the neighbours block paviors after you've done it It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
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