Member Since: 26 Nov 2009
Location: By the sea
Posts: 63
Running in
Sorry if this has been discussed before, but i can't find it. What's the best way to treat a new D4 3.0 engine - carefully, limiting the revs, or pretty much driving as normal?
30th Jan 2010 10:58 am
LRNoob
Member Since: 02 Jan 2010
Location: Den Haag
Posts: 28
Had my D4 for a week. The manual suggests treating the engine carefully for the first 500 miles ie no foot-to-the-floor acceleration, no high revs, no sports mode. My dealer said as long as the engine is warm you can pretty much drive as you like. Until I hear more experienced advice I'm being cautious. There is plenty of experience on this site, hopefully you'l get a definitive answer.
Good luck
PeterPeter
30th Jan 2010 1:53 pm
sgl223
Member Since: 26 Nov 2009
Location: By the sea
Posts: 63
Thanks, LRNoob. I think I'll be cautious as well. Only thing is, the last new car I had was a petrol Beemer, and by being too cautious it uses oil, because apparently i didn't stress it enough.
30th Jan 2010 4:36 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73045
There was a similar thread many, many moons ago and opinions varies from run it in properly to drive it like you stole it. Personally wouldn't worry about it too much, life's too short.
30th Jan 2010 4:41 pm
chesters
Member Since: 03 Oct 2005
Location: The Toon
Posts: 698
As far as I am concerned "Running In" in the old days used to be after an engine rebuild or the like, and then you would re torque everything down again.
I think you should take it easy for a couple of hundred miles to get the brakes settled in and check everything works fine.
Then after that just give it what for as long as the engine is at operation temp.
That's what I have done and its running sweet as a nut at 33k miles, but then I do change the oil every 6k miles.Arctic Frost Discovery 3 TDV6 SE, Active Rear Diff, Adaptive Head Lights, Tow Pack, Ebony Leather, Roof Rails, Mantec Guard. Tasmod Stainless Sill plates. Grabber AT's. Home made mud flaps. Side Steps back on until the next time.
31st Jan 2010 8:43 am
Frapp
Member Since: 19 Dec 2008
Location: Norff Zummerzet
Posts: 1655
I was always told,"If you dont drive them hard from day 1 the pistons dont go to the top of the bore and a ridge is created"
But I'm not mechanically minded Member of the carrot crank club
Embarrassingly in for the 2nd round, bought another two
D3 Jack Russell carrier
D4 Landmark for towing duties
31st Jan 2010 9:41 am
bellautos
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: NorthYorkshire
Posts: 2532
Let them warm up and drive it like a car that has done 35k miles its really nothing to worry about. And infact driving it to gentle will probabaly glaze the bores and make it worse.
Pete
1st Feb 2010 10:34 pm
sgl223
Member Since: 26 Nov 2009
Location: By the sea
Posts: 63
Thanks everyone; I'll take your advice.
2nd Feb 2010 10:24 am
LRNoob
Member Since: 02 Jan 2010
Location: Den Haag
Posts: 28
Me too.
I'll wait til its warmed up then drive it like I stole it Peter
2nd Feb 2010 10:46 am
daimlermg
Member Since: 31 Jan 2010
Location: N Yorks
Posts: 140
Is it OK to Map one from new or is it best to do some miles first.
I will have 4 weeks from new to drive mine before I take it to Italy and back (8 week trip with 1.75 Tonne Caravan on the back)
What is the power from mapped D4? any road tests yet ?
Member Since: 11 Jan 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 38
Best way to keep the motor in tip top condition is to have it delivered on the back of a wagon, push it into the garage and leave it alone for five years!
Added bonus - mpg is huge!
5th Feb 2010 8:13 pm
Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
Hi daimlermg,
Don't rush the remap. Towing 1.75t is nothing for my unmapped D3, so for the D4 I would expect it to be a doddle.
Besides, if you leave it for a while you'll have more remap options (if you still want one).
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