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Iain G
Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430
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Replacing clutch - any guidance appreciated. |
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It's been a while since my last topic, the D3 has been working so well I haven't had any reason tinker in the last 18 months or so. However, recently I've been losing the gear selection symbol, until a re-cal is performed - signs of an overheating clutch. So today, having given me fair warning the clutch decided she'd had enough. Clutch pedal to the floor, and only enough bite to creep on a level surface whilst emmitting a large smell of dead clutch.
So, what is involved in replacing the clutch? If it's a body off job then what is the going rate at an indy? Finally I beleive it's sensible to replace the clutch, clutch bolts and flywheel. What are the parts cost?
Thanks all, Iain
Last edited by Iain G on 21st Jan 2012 7:30 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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21st Jan 2012 4:34 pm |
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J@mes
Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
Location: Bomber County
Posts: 4547
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No need to take the body off to change the clutch. I had it done last year at my local indy, clutch, flywheel, bolts, slave cylinder came to around £650 (not from TLO so could be had cheaper from him!) and then around £400 labour inc VAT, took him about 6-8 hours I think.
2014 D4 XS
2005 D3 SE - Gone
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21st Jan 2012 4:49 pm |
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Iain G
Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430
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Thanks James
That's good if the body can stay on, I plan to replace the clutch myself so if anyone has any pointers then I'd appreciate it.
Iain
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21st Jan 2012 7:29 pm |
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Dave T
Member Since: 03 Jul 2009
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 6902
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Dothe release bearing as well, is only about £60 I think Joined the BMWX5 45e group
1994 Defender 90
2015 RRS Corris Grey/Black roof
2016 D4 Graphite Santorini Black
2012 D4 XS Orkney Grey
2005 D3 S Maya Gold
Convoy for Heroes 2011
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21st Jan 2012 7:34 pm |
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Iain G
Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430
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Dave T wrote:Dothe release bearing as well, is only about £60 I think
And there was me thinking (hoping) it would come with the clutch.
Thanks
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21st Jan 2012 7:36 pm |
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Russell
Member Since: 24 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 10564
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Replace the flywheel at the same time MY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
MY15 D4 HSE Kaikoura Stone
MY12 D4 HSE Nara Bronze Sold and gone
MY11 D4 HSE Stornaway Grey Sold and gone
D3 S spec Silver Sold and gone
Tow bar, full length roof bars, side steps, tow bar storage unit, surround camers.
D4 camera club
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21st Jan 2012 7:43 pm |
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chrisbowler
Member Since: 30 Jan 2009
Location: UK WALES
Posts: 176
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The LR manual describes removing gearbox and transfer box together - I suggest that you remove the T Box first and then the gearbox - it will allow you to tilt the gearbox much more easily to disconnect the gear selector linkage.
Also make sure that you fit the gearbox breather pipe properly - they can cause oil leaks if not fitted correctly and that are a pig to get to once all is back in.
Regards Chris Bowler Chris Bowler
D3 2005 EXPEDITION
D2 Challenge Vehicle
300 TDi Spare car
107" TD5 Comp Safari Motor
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21st Jan 2012 8:25 pm |
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Iain G
Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430
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Thanks chris,
I was hoping just to take the gearbox and transfer box out in one go. I had the transfer box off 1-2 years ago and don't fancy trying to undo all those hard-to reach bolts, only to do the same again on the bell housing. I will see how it goes though.
I stumbled across this which was quite helpfull:
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic39672.html
So I have now disconnected the gear level and removed the prop shafts so I can tow the vehicle to a workshop or an indie if they come back with a reasonable price.
Iain
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22nd Jan 2012 3:27 pm |
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