Member Since: 30 Nov 2014
Location: Southend on Sea
Posts: 180
Can you give details of the "ODBII interface (got it for about 25€) with BT and an android app" as would be interested in the same pieces of kit
Thanks
4th Jul 2016 8:27 am
XOR
Member Since: 22 Jun 2016
Location: Europe
Posts: 3
It is beeing distributed/sold by Amazon/Germany but I guess you can get this or a simmilar one elsewhere.
Hint: That device is quite long (I guess about 10cm) and since it has to be installed where the OBDII connector is (in a left hand drive car above driver's left foot) you could feel a little discomfort or be afraid to demage it or the connector by your foot. I hasn't happen to me yet but maybe you should look for a smaller one. There are tons of it out there...
The software I'm using is called DashCommand, it costs about 10€ and it comes with a free demo. I got it from Googles Play Store via my android smart phone.
Regards - XOR
4th Jul 2016 11:37 am
Eagle_D4_Conversion
Member Since: 01 Jun 2016
Location: Basingstoke
Posts: 82
I picked up this low profile version as the longer version as above conflicted with my big feet on the pedals!
It works well with Dashcommand but only gives the engine information as I expect it's limited to what ECUs it can see/communicate with. It looks to be good for engine codes and resets but anything else will need the proper IID or similar tools. Good for £8 and £7.99 for the App. Remember for iPhone you need a Wi-Fi ELM327.
8th Jul 2016 5:11 pm
floydstar
Member Since: 04 Jun 2011
Location: Bath
Posts: 92
Hi folks
Can someone please confirm the driver side hose part number is PNH500025 ?
Many thanks.
9th Jul 2016 6:02 pm
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
I went the silicone route, it's still working fine here. But that part number looks to be the correct one.
9th Jul 2016 7:30 pm
XOR
Member Since: 22 Jun 2016
Location: Europe
Posts: 3
Hi folks, hi floydstar.
The part # above seems to be correct.
Please also check the other, shorter turbo charger hose, going from the turbo charger to the intercooler (opposite side to the hose pictured above). In my car that one was also quite nagged, so I replaced both hoses.
I took the silicone type, a set including both hoses (in blue). I got it for about 150€ incl. VAT.
The replacement of the shorter hose was quite difficult, especially the access to the upper end (at the turbocharger) is not easy WITHOUT undoing other components. So you may take a look into the Workshop Manual or ask other guys here for the correct procedure (I was to lazy to undo any component ).
Click image to enlarge
...see my 'great' bush repair ...
The nagged turbo charger-intercooler hose (the shorter one). It is worn where the jubilee clip was holding it at the intercooler.
The new blue intercooler-manifold hose (silicone type, the longer one). The other hose is located down at the oposite side of the engine and can't be seen in this photo.
XOR
16th Jul 2016 8:59 am
disco4ever
Member Since: 23 Dec 2013
Location: under the car
Posts: 402
Are you using the old clips to mount the silicon hoses?Achim
own garage certified LR tech
Disco 2 TD5 MY 2001 - gone but still driven by another owner
Defender 110 TD5 driving me bananas with all faults
Disco 3 TDV 6 HSE MY 2005 gone @280.000 km
Disco 4 SDV 6 HSE MY 2012
1st Aug 2016 6:09 am
Guillaume77
Member Since: 21 Apr 2015
Location: France
Posts: 6
Many thanks for your inputs guys !! the hose replacement solved the black smoke and loss of power
18th Aug 2016 7:14 am
Ruggy13
Member Since: 07 Aug 2016
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 382
OBDII would you recommend one and I cheap but if kit to get basic info and fault codes?
Easy to set up to my iPhone?
18th Aug 2016 8:35 am
parrafin23
Member Since: 04 Dec 2011
Location: Buskeud
Posts: 678
The faultcode you have / had there XOR P023d. Might that be P023d-22 by any chanse? a Norwegian forum member and I have agreed to have a look at a 09 d3 with this faultcode. We suspect the intercooler to be at fault, but we are not sure until we remove it and pressure test it. But now after reading your post, i kinda want to remove all the hoses and inspect them closer on the table and under good light conditions..
Mr.P
6th Sep 2016 4:24 pm
alan.rorke
Member Since: 17 Dec 2013
Location: Bristol
Posts: 1
Where did my Saturday go....
Well I just made a simple job hard for myself...
Before leaving for France a couple of weeks ago on the very day we were leaving I spotted a split in the top of the intercooler hose, its Sunday I can't get a replacement so gaffer tape and some heat shrink tube effect my repair.
All went well, a great holiday pulling an 8 meter twin axle caravan around and the Disco didn't even hiccup.
So this morning I set out to stick on a replacement hose. Old one comes off nice and easy. Offer up the new one OEM from Rimmer Bros. I'd also been seduced into buying some of those lovely T Bolt stainless steel hose clamps from ASH the Silicone Hose people. I'd ordered both the 64-67mm and the 68-73mm sizes.
On the top flange the 64-67mm isn't quite big enough to fit once the hose its in place. The 68-73mm fits but at 24mm wide its just a bit wider than is idea and it sits over the flange lip that the hose rides over. As it applies a nice even pressure all around the whole hose I choose to leave it in place. I'm hoping it will hold..... We'll see
So here's my first lesson..... The bottom flange on the intercooler is Oval
You need to fit the bottom end of the hose first because you need to be able to move the whole hose up and down in order to get the round opening to engage the oval flange. I of course had already fitted the top. So after half an hour struggling I disassembled the top and then the bottom flew on.
Second lesson.... Don't get seduced by sexy kit!
Because I then spent about two hours trying to get a round T Bolt stainless steel hose clamp to fit an oval flange.
The 68-73mm clamp is to big you run out of thread on the clamp before its formed an oval to clamp the hose.
To get the smaller 64-67mm over the flange I needed to undo it completely and remove the bolt. I then spent ages trying to get the ends lined up so the bolt would engage the thread in the other side of the clamp. https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/images/smiles/icon_bigcry.gif
No matter what I tried it wouldn't so in the end I gave up and resorted to a good old fashioned bog standard jubilee clip 51 -72mm it fitted in seconds and clamped up like a dream.
So I hope my inability prevents you guys taking all morning to achieve what should have been a half hour job... Get jubilee clips you'll save time and money......
Christ I need to get some paint on that chassis
Cheers
1st Sep 2018 1:10 pm
a.pinkerton
Member Since: 22 Sep 2019
Location: Portstewart
Posts: 44
Hi everyone,
Using this thread I recently changed the long intercooler hose (well 6 months ago), which did seem to cure my intermittent uphill loss of power, limp mode and odd “flat spot” at times. However I am now experiencing the symptoms again combined with some black smoke. Map was also cleaned at the time.
I need to get in for a good inspection but would it be possible that Now it’s one of the other hoses? The shorter more fiddly ones? And if so has anyone any good instructions on replacement?
For further info the original long hose didn’t actually have any visual damage but I replaced it anyway, albeit with a cheap eBay one. (I am now looking at silicon kits). And in between times I also got an Alive tuning remap and blanked my egrs
Thanks in advance for any info
14th Oct 2020 3:21 pm
mek
Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 468
Have you done the very short (~8cm) hose? I changed mine last weekend, having done the other two 5 years ago. The car now drives like it has had a tune, by comparison. No sign of smoke puff either. There was a small hole in the 15 year old hose I removed. It's a very fiddly job but it is possible to do. It took me 4 hours start to finish.
18th Oct 2020 2:53 pm
a.pinkerton
Member Since: 22 Sep 2019
Location: Portstewart
Posts: 44
Not yet, probably worth doing. Did you follow a guide in here?
18th Oct 2020 3:31 pm
mek
Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 468
There wasn't a guide I found but it's all quite logical once you get in there.
* Remove headlight on turbo side
* Remove arch
* Remove wheel
* Remove liner
* Remove 2 small turbo headshields. They can be wiggled out
* Remove 1 small bolt and 2 small nuts which hold metal pipe section in place. Actually this is the hardest part of the whole job. Simple in principle but you need multiple combinations of socket elements and spanners sometimes only getting 1/6 turn. Of course you also need to not lose these on the floor!
* Loosen hose clamp on front end of metal pipe, release hose, undo various clips on lines and cables and now you have wiggle room on the turbo end.
* Wrestle old short hose off turbo.
* Assembly is the reverse of disassembly
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