Member Since: 21 Jun 2011
Location: North Worcestershire (not far from Redditch)
Posts: 385
How to replace a clockspring
Hiya,
I had to replace my clockspring a couple of weeks ago. Now I know for most on the forum this is a quick and simple job, but for a numpty like me it was a frightening task!
Because I did a loads of reading around on the forum before I did it, in the end it wasn't as scary as I thought it was going to be. Anyway, I have done a little write up with some pictures and shoved it in my gallery in case anyone else may find it useful. I have included what my symptons were and what fault code was showing up cos I thought that may be helpful for some...
Please feel free to pick it apart and tell me if there are things in there I have missed or put down wrongly so I can improve it.
This link should work for those who want to have a look:
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
Great write up
But I suspect it took you longer to do the write up than actually change the clock spring G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
26th Jun 2013 9:00 am
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
Nice one Chris
Only thing I would add, is that if you keep the steering wheel bolt on a couple of turns, IF the steering wheel is stiff to remove from the splines, when it does let go, it saves you having a face full of steering wheel.
Once it's loose on the splines, then no problem to remove the bolt. Bodsys Brake Bible
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
26th Jun 2013 9:03 am
Davro
Member Since: 30 Jun 2007
Location: London
Posts: 352
Great document, but lousy timing, I could have used this last weekend !.
Just a couple of things I would add to make it perfect .... the wiki entry for a hard-reset reccommends connecting the battery leads together for 1 or 2 minutes to help discharge the capictors. For people who are not going to leave it overnight then I think it is suggested to leave it for 20 minutes.
Also you said the lower cover put up a fight, both the top and bottom on mine did not want to come out without a lot of force, but as there was enough movement in there I was still able to get access.
I bought a used clockspring and the previous owner had use a cable tie to stop it being rotated out of position, do new ones come with anything to restrain it that needs to be cut off before fitting it. I am just thinking that although the grey spindle needs to be at the bottom, in theory someone could rotate it a complete 360 degrees.
Don't mean to be "picky", just trying to make a great document even better
26th Jun 2013 9:08 am
Chris1969
Member Since: 21 Jun 2011
Location: North Worcestershire (not far from Redditch)
Posts: 385
.. thanks gents
.... Wiggs, your spot on! I can type quite quickly but it did still take longer than actually doing the change . I had a burning desire to try and make a small contribution to the forum rather than just bleeding it dry for information. As someone once said, that's one small step for man, one giant leap for Chris
Ian - good point! I shall add your tip in. I guess its not someting you think about unless you have indeed had a face full of steering wheel
Cheers....
26th Jun 2013 9:11 am
devonchilliman
Member Since: 03 Nov 2008
Location: Devon
Posts: 5224
Member Since: 21 Jun 2011
Location: North Worcestershire (not far from Redditch)
Posts: 385
... thanks Davro
I will add tha about the hard reset. I said 30 mintues in the document because when I was looking around, different people say to leave it different lengths of time so I'm being cautious saying 30 mintues
With it rotating out of position, I didn't even think about that.. but a very good point! I guess if your not sure, an option would be to wind it one way as far as it will go... but carefully so you dont strain the cables... then back the other way as far as it will go, counting how many full rotations, then wind back the other way half the number of full rotations. Should then mean its centralised in terms of the internal cables...
I will add a few more comments to it
26th Jun 2013 9:28 am
blue200tdi
Member Since: 23 Sep 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 1094
Great write up You guys are gonna be busier than a test bench in a plunger factory!
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26th Jun 2013 8:47 pm
Hairy Dan
Member Since: 19 Jan 2011
Location: Co. Durham
Posts: 12319
Great write up Cheers Ian
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26th Jun 2013 9:21 pm
aljo
Member Since: 20 May 2007
Location: west sussex
Posts: 804
Excellent write up Last night I lay in bed looking up at the stars in the sky and I thought to myself, where,s the f**king ceiling!!
26th Jun 2013 9:28 pm
parrafin23
Member Since: 04 Dec 2011
Location: Buskeud
Posts: 681
Thats a great write up Chris..
I made a video on how I did this.. but its over 300MB big.. and cant upload vids here..
P.
27th Jun 2013 6:57 am
mrszymon
Member Since: 17 Apr 2012
Location: London
Posts: 425
Superb write-up, well done!
27th Jun 2013 7:29 am
vectisbob
Member Since: 28 Nov 2019
Location: IoW
Posts: 1
Clockspring
Thank you Chris, really helpful information 👌
2nd Apr 2020 11:44 am
tomthevet
Member Since: 02 Apr 2018
Location: Borders
Posts: 3
Just out of interest I changed my clockspring unit today and noticed the wiring from the brown connector had previously been crushed somehow so this may have been the cause of my fault. But I had a new unit with new wiring attached so swapped whole thing anyway and fault cured.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
.... Wiggs, your spot on! I can type quite quickly but it did still take longer than actually doing the change 
. I had a burning desire to try and make a small contribution to the forum rather than just bleeding it dry for information. As someone once said, that's one small step for man, one giant leap for Chris 
