Member Since: 29 Mar 2020
Location: Leeds
Posts: 10
Rear wheel arch corrosion
Hi, this is my first post. I have removed the rear bumper to get at and change the rear parking sensors. Firstly the screw holding the flaps on were seized and the metal inside the flaps was corroded beyond any further use. Any idea what the screw type was?
I,also noticed that the body work under the Arch Trim And the lip on the sill under the door seal is showing first signs of corrosion. Any tips?
Thanks
23rd May 2020 1:59 pm
darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2863
Hi
The standard d3 LR flaps and also the brackets for the side steps if you have them are made of the cheapest nastiest metal known to man (its like they recycled Lancias and Alfa Romeos then didn't bother rust proofing them!) Lots here have used Dinitrol on their cars and say good things about it. Basically if you are able to take the silver covers and also the inner arch trims on the back off and have a good clean and give a liberal dose of rust killer then paint with some anti rust paint - lots of cavity material like waxoyl or Dinitrol will also helpMust stop buying shiny toys....
23rd May 2020 2:48 pm
J.Prezes
Member Since: 10 May 2015
Location: usually at my Indy's shop
Posts: 62
after 10 years of having (or probably most of this time having them rusted beyond recognition) the remains of the brackets have been removed and now i just have the plastic bit and it holdsperfectly
23rd May 2020 3:49 pm
R900pjc
Member Since: 29 Mar 2020
Location: Leeds
Posts: 10
Thanks, I thought about just using the plastic. The amount of dirt build up behind them was disgusting. It’s the cheaper option
24th May 2020 12:36 pm
R900pjc
Member Since: 29 Mar 2020
Location: Leeds
Posts: 10
darrind wrote:
Hi
The standard d3 LR flaps and also the brackets for the side steps if you have them are made of the cheapest nastiest metal known to man (its like they recycled Lancias and Alfa Romeos then didn't bother rust proofing them!) Lots here have used Dinitrol on their cars and say good things about it. Basically if you are able to take the silver covers and also the inner arch trims on the back off and have a good clean and give a liberal dose of rust killer then paint with some anti rust paint - lots of cavity material like waxoyl or Dinitrol will also help
Thanks, That’s a great Idea. I have some waxoyl in garage, I am going to use it underneath where the spare wheel sits. I was shocked at how much corrosion there was when I released the spare.
After fifteen years it’s the only spots I can see developing on the body work. It’s a high moisture retaining area with all the mud build up.
Decided over the weekend that i would give the rear crossmember the once over as there were signs of rust visible in the towhitch/ sockets area. As some of you have posted on this topic, removal of the mudflaps is a right PITA.
The manual says remove the screws holding the mudflaps to the arch liner and bumper, dead easy if the car is straight off the production line, completely different if it's 12 years old !!
Had to carefully grind the heads off the screws with a Dremel, being careful not to melt the plastic mudflap. When they were removed, the steel strengthening backplate was virtually non existant. Why LR as manufacturers of a "Pemium" car for premium cost cut corners and penny pinch with substandard materials is beyond me. Surely, given that their vehicles are lauded to be suitable for all terrain use, common sense would dictate that suitable materials be used for areas where corrosion will be a problem.
The mudflap back plate and fixing screws should be Stainless steel, as many other exposed fixings open to the elements etc. on the chassis/underside. Brake pipes should be non ferrous and not cheap zinc plated Bundy steel tube.
Anyway, removed the bumper and the rear crossmember still had the original black paint covering over about 70% of it's surface with light surface rust elsewhere. Wire brushed and treated plus gave the socket/towing eye housing a good coat of Hammerite Black. Mudflaps refitted using Stainless self tappers and washers-minus the remains of the back plates.Relocated to Mid France from N. Wales March 2021
Rovacomlite and IDD/ SSD diagnostics user
Previous Landies
3.9 SE Classic
3.5 V8 Disco
4.6 P38 HSE
L322 Vogue HSE
TD4 ES Freelander 1
26th May 2020 8:39 pm
R900pjc
Member Since: 29 Mar 2020
Location: Leeds
Posts: 10
Agreed, This is definitely one of those jobs that that has grown arms and legs. I have removed the wheel arch cover to see more corrosion!! nothing to bad at the
Moment. It’s good that I have seen it at this stage.
From experience of working on Land Rovers over the years, jobs involving nut & bolt removal in or around the chassis/underside means that you have to add a contingency of at least a couple of hours to a 10 minute job in order to remove badly rusted fixings. If you are lucky enough to own a Chelsea Tractor that only goes out in dry weather and has done less than 10000 miles in 10 years, you may be lucky.
Strange that Haynes and all other Manuals make it look easy when they state "Remove the bolts !!"
Relocated to Mid France from N. Wales March 2021
Rovacomlite and IDD/ SSD diagnostics user
Previous Landies
3.9 SE Classic
3.5 V8 Disco
4.6 P38 HSE
L322 Vogue HSE
TD4 ES Freelander 1
28th May 2020 10:20 am
darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2863
Yes it should say - collect various cutting heating and freezing devices, collection of plasters and swear box then attempt to remove the Bl**dy F**king Ba%%tard seized pieces of C£$P that Landrover hold the car together with using all of the collection of tools!Must stop buying shiny toys....
Doesn't look too bad-mostly surface rust, nothing "Terminal" but double check the integrity of the original steel brake lines and fittings and replace with Kunifer or Copper if needs be.
A good session with a wire brush, rust treatment and protective covering should sort it out. Being a light body colour tends to show it up more.Relocated to Mid France from N. Wales March 2021
Rovacomlite and IDD/ SSD diagnostics user
Previous Landies
3.9 SE Classic
3.5 V8 Disco
4.6 P38 HSE
L322 Vogue HSE
TD4 ES Freelander 1
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