Member Since: 06 May 2015
Location: Bromley
Posts: 331
Rear Brake Pipe MOT Failure
So I thought I had everything in hand attending to all previous advisories (front track rods and ends) before the MOT. Only for it to fail on a completely new thing. Apparently my rear brake pipes on both sides are excessively corroded. Odd that this doesn't show up as an advisory last year when the very same garage did the MOT. I've only done a little over 3K in the last year so don't know how this could have advanced so quickly.
Anyway, it looks like it is the two long pipes that need replacing. I gather from other posts here that this can't be done in one piece without lifting the body? I saw a technical bulletin on another post which mentions the two service parts that can be used ([url="https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/rear-brake-pipe-tsb-109782.html?highlight=brake+pipe+repair"]). Does that mean it can be done without lifting the body but will still require cutting/joining?
Also I see a lot of folk suggesting copper is a better replacement over these steel replacement parts. What would you suggest? Should I just buy these replacements and get the MOT garage to replace them or should I get new copper ones made and fitted elsewhere? (Garage said £150 labour to fit the steel replacements although I'm not sure they have seen what is actually involved yet).
Thanks
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27th May 2019 10:04 am
highlands
Member Since: 10 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5107
IMO mad to do it anything other than copper/kunifer.
About 1.5-2 hours on my back on the driveway to replace.
Probably around an hour to 1.5 on a ramp.
Around a tenner in brake bits if you don't replace the flexis and clamps, etc
I replaced all the flexis seeing as half the pipes needed to be undone anyway.Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
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54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
27th May 2019 10:10 am
Admirable
Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Fife
Posts: 1045
I would clarify that it's the two long brake pipes and not the small pipes that fit between the two flexi hoses at the rear. The flexi hoses should be changed every 6 or 7 years, can't remember which.
I've done both the small pipes and flexi's on both sides. Flexi's are about £12ish and metal pipe with bends already formed to fit are about £7ish from Landrover.
27th May 2019 10:27 am
webego
Member Since: 06 May 2015
Location: Bromley
Posts: 331
Thanks. And if I do opt for copper/kunifer can anyone recommend someone in Kent that can do this (have just over a week to re-present for MOT).
Last edited by webego on 27th May 2019 10:30 am. Edited 1 time in total
27th May 2019 10:28 am
webego
Member Since: 06 May 2015
Location: Bromley
Posts: 331
It is the long ones for sure. Also, I had a look at the short ones myself and they don't look bad. Regarding the hoses, I doubt they have ever been changed so probably worth doing the short ones and hoses at the same time by the sounds of it.
27th May 2019 10:30 am
Dave T
Member Since: 03 Jul 2009
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 6910
Any garage should be able to do it, it’s brake pipes.Joined the BMWX5 45e group
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27th May 2019 11:32 am
webego
Member Since: 06 May 2015
Location: Bromley
Posts: 331
Sure, but there is often someone on here who can do the work and is trusted by other members. Geoff used to be that man in Kent till he packed up shop. If I had a job that I thought was beyond my ability or I didn't have time to meander my way through myself then I'd go to Geoff.
27th May 2019 11:41 am
iforland
Member Since: 28 Feb 2015
Location: redditch
Posts: 52
Why don't you replace the back section that's corroded and join together under the centre of the car where you can get access...
You can get purposed made pipe joints to allow this, check out:
Member Since: 21 May 2018
Location: Sleaford, LINCS.
Posts: 857
I’ve had mine replaced with copper for £100 at an indie. I wasn’t sure about the copper as copper on my jeep was a big no, no. It all appears to work fine though so happy days.
28th May 2019 6:53 am
webego
Member Since: 06 May 2015
Location: Bromley
Posts: 331
So asked the MOT garage to replace all rear metal pipes (two longs ones and the two short ones) with copper. They quoted £250 all in for parts (all copper piping and fittings excluding the replacement rubber hoses which I have already bought) and labour.
I assume they will still need to drop the exhaust to get access?
28th May 2019 7:41 pm
highlands
Member Since: 10 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5107
I have always changed the short metal pipes with genuine.
No real reason not to as they are pretty cheap, quick and easy to replace and also easy to keep an eye on.Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
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28th May 2019 10:50 pm
Farmer Chalk
Member Since: 06 Mar 2013
Location: Independent Republic of Kentishshire.
Posts: 4197
Just had mine replaced at AHL near Maidstone...with a load of other things..
The reason rhey rust out is due to Land Rovers insistence to use a sponge type material where the pipes are secured to the body. These hold water and create the perfect conditions for rusting. The rest of the pipes are perfect but mine rotted out on both sides at these clips.
They cut the main line half way along the body and joined it...saving a body off job...
When you are doing it cost in the replacement of all the rear hoses and sub pipes as it’s a far easier job and they will need doing soon anyway..
My front flexibles also need replacing.. have a look at the metal nut coupling at the end of the flexible hoses...they rust badly and will fail shortly...
Makes sense to replace all of the brake lines at the same time...
29th May 2019 5:48 am
PCT3
Member Since: 13 May 2017
Location: Kent
Posts: 144
Have just had to do mine, no need to drop exhaust, just heat shield, using two inline joiners and copper pipe, feed in pipe from the back of car and formed ends on car after routed through( the various clips, not as neatly as I would like but doing to the floor limits some of the smoothness, can’t be steel doing it this way as you wouldn’t get some of the bends, don’t allow reservoir to drain out whilst reforming old steel pipes.Discovery 3 HSE 07
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29th May 2019 5:48 am
highlands
Member Since: 10 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5107
Use a spreader clamp or piece of timber to press the brake pedal down so fluid doesn't continue to leak from the MC...although if having it done at a garage they should know this.Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
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54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
29th May 2019 9:39 am
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4540
Did mine recently. Kunifer, not Copper. Copper brake pipe not allowed in many countries across Europe.
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