Member Since: 27 Oct 2017
Location: Timisoara
Posts: 7
a question to anyone who has done this job replacing the rear sections:
did you remove any bits for easier access to the pipes? No
Im a bit concerned about getting the new pipe in place. which way to feed from; front or back? From back
did you start by removing the existing brake line and use that as a template to bend a new pipe?yes
or just started feeding pipe from one end and bend it "in place" ? No
im planning to cut somewere where the pipe is straight, above the exhaust heatshield, and run copper-nickle pipes all the way to the flexibles. Choose a place between two not far apart clips.
19th Mar 2020 4:05 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2668
One thing to note with this job, as I found out when I did it, is that not any old cheap pipe flaring tool will work on the steel pipe that Land Rover used.
A good quality tool is required as the pipe is significantly tougher than the copper/Kunifer pipes most of us will have dealt with.
NasherHeaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
19th Mar 2020 4:25 pm
dsabau
Member Since: 27 Oct 2017
Location: Timisoara
Posts: 7
I used ATE 24.8134-0547.1 brake pipe. No problems flaring with regular tools.
19th Mar 2020 4:53 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2668
It's flaring the cut off end of the existing pipe that can be an issue, not the new bit you are adding.
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
19th Mar 2020 7:32 pm
oggy_oggy
Member Since: 06 Apr 2019
Location: Gothenburg
Posts: 21
great stuff! thanks for the help dsabau and Nasher!
do you also happen to know what flare type (bubble or double) is used at the junction between the long pipe and rear flexible?
i only have a double flaring kit but from what i've found online, its possible to use it to make the bubble flare also - at least in copper/kunifer
20th Mar 2020 10:08 am
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2668
I've always thought that if I did it again I'd buy a standard pre-formed LR rear line and cut it to join it to the old one.
That way it not only looks standard, but has all the correct fittings and is a standard line with an extra joint.
NasherHeaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
20th Mar 2020 7:42 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10335
Member Since: 27 Oct 2017
Location: Timisoara
Posts: 7
I have done a double flare. No problems.
21st Mar 2020 5:19 am
G3Z
Member Since: 16 Dec 2018
Location: South Wales
Posts: 536
Just a quick bump on this thread for anyone interested.
I had a garage replace my rear pipes today as they were corroded - they cut them from the centre of the car back. Replaced with copper - 3-4 hours work £220 from a normal garage. So although not ‘cheap’ as I’m not confident enough for running/flaring/joining brake pipes, and not having the tools. So I do think £220 is a good price.Defender 110 2.4 TDCi Utility Station Wagon.
2007 Disco 3 GS TDV6 Manual
200,000+ mile club 😎
31st Jul 2020 3:48 pm
oggy_oggy
Member Since: 06 Apr 2019
Location: Gothenburg
Posts: 21
My garage quoted med ~800£.. I thought it was a bit steep so did it myself instead. I will say that with my limited experience in brake lines, this took me like three nights to finish (total of maybe 6 hours).
My issue was that all the fittings were badly corroded and partly rouded by previous attempts.
the method that got the fittings of in the end was penetrating fluid, punching the fitting with chisel and the the 250mm knipex locking pliers. The force these grip with is really something else. I had better luck with these than vise grips
16th Jun 2021 12:47 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1771
If you are replacing pipe and new fittings why not just cut the flexible bit without undoing any connectors. Clips maybe a problem.
17th Jun 2021 2:39 am
oggy_oggy
Member Since: 06 Apr 2019
Location: Gothenburg
Posts: 21
I guess that would have been much easier.. or rather cutting the hard line, remove clip and push the whole joint through the retaining bracket.
I initially intended to just replace the long hard lines, that's why I wanted the fittings undone. Inspecting a bit further i decided to replace the flexibles and short hard lines as well. This is where I should have taken the faster approach of cutting..
You live and learn with these cars I guess.. now i know a bit more about brake lines an can confidently remove a seized fitting at least
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