Member Since: 19 Jul 2005
Location: Walkabout
Posts: 628
Thorgal
Have you checked your spares wheel is tight?2007 D3 HSE Artic Frost Silverish
Wandering Aussie-Looking for SUN
Growing Old is Mandatory, Growing Up is Optional.
3rd Apr 2012 10:33 pm
DaveT
Member Since: 01 Aug 2005
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2573
A nasty job made so much easier by this guide!
Just to add... I found it possible to remove all four bolts using the (halfords) 3/8drive 13mm socket. I used a long extension tube, and kept a constant downward pressure on the bolt by levering against a bit of wood between the body and the ratchet - this avoids slipping and rounding the nut. New bolts definitely required!! £1.44 for four.
The bolts are exposed underneath the bracket, and as Stay Frosty says, direct some WD40 up here.
Also, when installing the new bush, lining up & getting the first bite of the thread is a bit tricky, poke a screwdriver up through the hole from below to align the bracket.
This plus discs & pads completed in 5 hrs including cleaning everything!
Whilst I was at it, I noticed that the handbrake cable rubs against the pipe that comes from the rear of the compressor - it's about half way through the pipe
Can anyone confirm that this IS an airline ... and where it goes / how to repair / replace?
...Are they all like this??
Centre-left on this photo:
Click image to enlarge
Long succession of Disco's since 2001...
SIII Lightweight - neglected & rusting. Bulkhead, A panels, vent panel & outriggers now disintegrated - Next years project!
8th Jul 2012 8:38 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20797
The pipe that the handbrake cable rubs through is either the exhaust or inlet for the compressor, I forget...
If its the inlet, you want to get it sorted pretty sharp, so the compressor doesnt suck in any water...
Normally, I just cut the pipe and extend it with some airpipe fittings, which keeps it off the handbrake cableMy D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 01 Aug 2005
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2573
Brilliant, thanks Mikey.
Presume it's 8mm ? I have some pipe & connectors that i carry just in case Long succession of Disco's since 2001...
SIII Lightweight - neglected & rusting. Bulkhead, A panels, vent panel & outriggers now disintegrated - Next years project!
8th Jul 2012 9:17 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20797
Member Since: 08 Oct 2011
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 47
Nice post. Help me a lot doing mine yesterday.
cheers
15th Jul 2012 2:25 pm
er1c
Member Since: 24 Jan 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 183
Does anyone know the torque value for the ARB bush bracket 's (2) bolts? I haven't seen them mentioned anywhere. Long Ranger aux fuel tank, Traxide w/ yellow top battery, Sasquatch rods, G4 tail guards, GVIF 6.2, CarPC (Dual-Core Atom D525, 64GB SSD, 4GB DDR3 & M3-ATX 125W PSU, Win7 Pro 64 w/ Centrafuse 3.5), Yaesu FT-8900R ham radio w/ Comet CA-2x4SR, reverse CCD camera, RLD laptop seat mount, RLD roof antenna mount, Viair 400P compressor, 3K xenons, 2.5K halogen fogs, Series 3 mudflaps, 1.25" Wheel Spacers (Motorsport Tech), Baja Roof Rack
18th Jul 2012 2:53 pm
DaveT
Member Since: 01 Aug 2005
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2573
To undo: about 600NM
To do up again: i just did the 'tight' Long succession of Disco's since 2001...
SIII Lightweight - neglected & rusting. Bulkhead, A panels, vent panel & outriggers now disintegrated - Next years project!
18th Jul 2012 7:48 pm
mjom89
Member Since: 13 Sep 2011
Location: Essex
Posts: 587
Thanks a lot for write up - I changed mine on Sunday with ease thanks to this. I didn't think about replacing the bolts until i read this and Lookers was closed so I just ran the bolts through a die and cleaned the rust off the threads. A bit of washing up liquid helped slip them and the brackets on too!
3rd Sep 2012 9:04 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
er1c wrote:
Does anyone know the torque value for the ARB bush bracket 's (2) bolts? I haven't seen them mentioned anywhere.
From the manual
Quote:
Tighten the nuts to 115 Nm (85 lb.ft)
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 20 Oct 2009
Location: Germany
Posts: 55
Also did the rear bushes last weekend with the great help of this guide. The main problem was finding the right tools that could do the job. I ended up creating a special tool by sticking a 13mm ratchet spanner into the handle of the car jack (also had to stick a short 3/4 extension in as well, so it would sit tight and didn't move). It was the only tool that would fit and was able to create enough leverage. Here are some pics:
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
The only thing I noticed was that I couldn't quite tighten the bolt facing the front of the car all the way. I tried to tighten it to 115nm, but then it would just become loose again. The bolt is fairly tight now, but if I try to tighten it more, it will just get loose. At first I thought I had snapped off the head of the bolt, but I guess the thread is just worn out. Used some threadlock so hopefully it won't come loose, since there is no way to cut a new thread in that area. The only solution would probably to try to use a slightly smaller bolt and another nut on the bottom.
Regards
Lars
5th Sep 2012 1:28 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Lars,
I'm pretty impressed with a ratchet spanner that can take that abuse!! What make is it as I am sure my Gearwrench ratchet spanners would fail with such force?Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 01 Dec 2011
Location: cornwall
Posts: 10146
Just done mine But I took the body of to do it -------------------------------------------------
if you cant hold on dont let go , it ill come in handy for something even if you never use it.
D3 SE 05,
110 s wagon 300 tdi SOLD
h top transit
crew cab transit
transit connect
ausa dumper, muck truck .
peljob 2.5 digger
06 L 200 crew cab
5th Sep 2012 8:09 pm
sirdeck
Member Since: 20 Oct 2009
Location: Germany
Posts: 55
Hi Robbie,
the ratchet spanner is a CAROLUS (cheaper sub brand of GEDORE). Probably not made in Germany any longer but quality seems fairly good. Sprayed the bolts with WD40 the day before so that might have helped as well.
Cheers
6th Sep 2012 1:31 pm
chesters
Member Since: 03 Oct 2005
Location: The Toon
Posts: 698
Thanks for the Guide job done
Did mine today took about 2 hours but had a general clean under and put some waxoyl on some bits.
Great guide, had to cut an old 13mm ring spanner to fit in a bit of pipe to crack the nuts off and tighten them up.
A good job done.Arctic Frost Discovery 3 TDV6 SE, Active Rear Diff, Adaptive Head Lights, Tow Pack, Ebony Leather, Roof Rails, Mantec Guard. Tasmod Stainless Sill plates. Grabber AT's. Home made mud flaps. Side Steps back on until the next time.
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