Member Since: 20 Jun 2019
Location: Düsseldorf
Posts: 51
Rear 3/4ths rusted Chassis
As in the title , I'm currently looking at purchasing a 2005 HSE Disco.
So early models then , obviously a bit of rust is expected.
I'm given to understand these vehicles have a super sturdy frame.
Went to have a look at one yesterday, everything looks good for a first glance.
Other than the rust on the frame and on the body that is.
Now, i know some of it will be surface rust which can be scrubbed away, so i'm OK there.
I've found companies offering the underbody coating for €300 ish.
But what was a little bit disconcerting was that there looked to be some shadowy parts in the rear 3/4th of the chassis, where the cross member joins. Even more odd was the location of the supposed crack , i'd imagine that if a crack were to form, it'd form from the top as that'd be the loading pattern.
I'd like your opinions on IF this is a crack at all or some dirt-ish thing, and secondly if they do tend to crack. Keep in mind that it has passed TÜV (Equivalent of being MoT here in Germany) in July 2018.
I'm pretty sure it would not have passed inspection if there were a crack, but surely an advisory for initial signs of rust.
Will follow up in paralell with seller to get a copy of the last check to scan for advisories.
Outline of said offending area on chassis (look at the rusted body too)
Left bit of said offending area as below
Right bit of said offending area as below
9th Sep 2019 6:27 pm
Landybandy
Member Since: 10 Jul 2013
Location: Neath
Posts: 178
Been to check mine & I have not got them. I would say they are cracks. I’m sure someone with better knowledge of the chassis will give their opinion on this. As said mine has not got these, but it has got a thick layer of wax oil so who know what could be underneath. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help.
19th Sep 2019 6:28 pm
shravanjk86
Member Since: 20 Jun 2019
Location: Düsseldorf
Posts: 51
Appreciate your opinion all the same.
The seller is being sketchy ,follows ups for the biannual testing certificate have yielded no response.
Since it’s dirt cheap I thought I’d put in the work, seeing as how most require some work at least , but a crack is simply not worth my time even if it were gifted to me. Run is all I can think 🤔.
Pictures aren't the best but lines are neat and look same both sides. Could it have had repair plates welded on?
With no good input from seller ... run. Fast..
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
19th Sep 2019 9:58 pm
M3bobby
Member Since: 21 May 2018
Location: Sleaford, LINCS.
Posts: 857
They look like bead welds casting a shadow and you can see the shadow as a black line.
20th Sep 2019 5:35 am
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72740
Last edited by DSL on 20th Sep 2019 6:51 am. Edited 1 time in total
20th Sep 2019 6:50 am
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72740
Taking the NORMAL_ out the pic code might help sharpen up a tad.
They look like bead welds casting a shadow and you can see the shadow as a black line.
last pic as re-posted by DSL ... i don't think there would be a shadow of the weld-bead from that angle. assume it's a crack ... run.
starting to spot a trend btw ... DSL gets involved, and "normal" goes out the window.
20th Sep 2019 7:02 am
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72740
What is this normal you speak of?
20th Sep 2019 7:06 am
andy27
Member Since: 07 Oct 2018
Location: Chesterfield
Posts: 82
Looks like poor welding trying to hide cracks to me, how fast can you run and it sounds like the seller knows it. This is why i put mine through the test before thinking of selling it, piece of mind for everyone.
20th Sep 2019 7:58 am
M3bobby
Member Since: 21 May 2018
Location: Sleaford, LINCS.
Posts: 857
Hardware17 wrote:
M3bobby wrote:
They look like bead welds casting a shadow and you can see the shadow as a black line.
last pic as re-posted by DSL ... i don't think there would be a shadow of the weld-bead from that angle. assume it's a crack ... run.
starting to spot a trend btw ... DSL gets involved, and "normal" goes out the window.
Now I see that last photo it does look like a crack, but why would it crack there? If it’s confirmed as a crack it would be a handy thread as a sticky for reference.
20th Sep 2019 8:29 am
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26682
Really we need better pictures, but it looks normal to me. I don’t think the weld goes around the corner of the chassis main leg. It’s welded on the flat faces only.
20th Sep 2019 8:32 am
shravanjk86
Member Since: 20 Jun 2019
Location: Düsseldorf
Posts: 51
Recieved the MoT papers
I've finally got some feedback from the seller and copies of MoTs.
They've passed the car in July 2018 for Emissions and general MoT inspection.
Albeit with an advisory for Rust on the monocoque/floor pan as well as rust on chassis.
Rust is entered as :
1."Strong traces of surface rust" , Advisory in March 2016 MoT
2. Advisory for "surface rust in mid Chassis area" July 2018 MoT.
I also notice that the EPB forces in 2016 are 400daN & 300daN in 2016.
This was commented upon and passed anyway as they were within deviation limits.
In 2018 however , it's 200daN and 260daN as EPB forces recorded. Still passed.
I'm thinking i'll give it a go and pick the vehicle up considering it's 6Axxxxxx HSE spec with working everything for 3,700quid .
Besides every car i've seen so far needs some work on rust , even 9Axxxxxx vehicles , though admittedly very light rust. might as well buy cheap and have money for the eventuality.
20th Sep 2019 11:26 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Unlike land rovers of time gone past, the D3 chassis is proper meaty and will weld nicely, why it cracked would be of more interest.
20th Sep 2019 7:14 pm
Alphamale
Member Since: 28 May 2014
Location: Belfast
Posts: 496
Re: Rear 3/4ths rusted Chassis
shravanjk86 wrote:
As in the title , I'm currently looking at purchasing a 2005 HSE Disco.
So early models then , obviously a bit of rust is expected.
I'm given to understand these vehicles have a super sturdy frame.
Went to have a look at one yesterday, everything looks good for a first glance.
Other than the rust on the frame and on the body that is.
Now, i know some of it will be surface rust which can be scrubbed away, so i'm OK there.
I've found companies offering the underbody coating for €300 ish.
But what was a little bit disconcerting was that there looked to be some shadowy parts in the rear 3/4th of the chassis, where the cross member joins. Even more odd was the location of the supposed crack , i'd imagine that if a crack were to form, it'd form from the top as that'd be the loading pattern.
I'd like your opinions on IF this is a crack at all or some dirt-ish thing, and secondly if they do tend to crack. Keep in mind that it has passed TÜV (Equivalent of being MoT here in Germany) in July 2018.
I'm pretty sure it would not have passed inspection if there were a crack, but surely an advisory for initial signs of rust.
Will follow up in paralell with seller to get a copy of the last check to scan for advisories.
Outline of said offending area on chassis (look at the rusted body too)
Left bit of said offending area as below
Right bit of said offending area as below
Hi, while I can't run out and check mine right now, (on holiday in Canada, Niagra, right now) I think I can reassure you that those are not cracks. The bottom corners that you have circled were never and never were intended, to be welded. They're deliberately left as you see them to avoid stress cracking/metal fatigue in those areas and allow water to drain when deep waiding. The bottom, top and sides of the cross member are secured just as you see them. If you look carefully at the areas you circled you'll see that the steel of the cross member doesn't reach the side frame and because it's a designed feature and the gaps are symmetrical.
Cleaning the areas shoulded help see the joints better.
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