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axe1
Member Since: 06 Oct 2020
Location: Axminster
Posts: 19
  
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has anyone used this before?
what is your experience with it in comparison with wax oil?
Last like i looked under my d4 i can see rust which i dont like with a late 2014 / 46,000 mile vehicle.
Im either going to fully underseal with Raptor or wax oil (much cheaper)
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 7th Oct 2020 6:10 am |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20869
  
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Don't use Waxoyl. Its old technology and very outdated
Raptor is OK, but as with any underseal/rust prevention, preparation is the key. If you apply over rust, it will eventually fall off as the rust grows underneath
Ideally, you want to remove any loose rust, and wire brush/scrape the rusty part and surrounding area, then use a product with a rust neutraliser, to prevent it coming back again  My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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| 7th Oct 2020 6:44 am |
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Gareth
Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26782
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Wax oil is horrible. My son has a 1985 camper van that has been smothered in black waxoil underneath.
Yes it has stopped it rusting to a reasonable extent, but the big problem is that every job is a messy chore because the stuff gets everywhere.
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| 7th Oct 2020 8:12 am |
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G_Cam
Member Since: 12 Aug 2010
Location: Fife
Posts: 2061
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I have used both .. I prefer Dinatrol to Waxoil these days.. however they are kind of different products from Raptor/
Traditional Waxoil can be quite useful in things like inner sills where you need some creeping gunk to find the bare bits that the water will find and sit in.. (just remember its there if you ever need to weld in that area!!)
raptor is a very tough polyurethane (iirc) coating. it is very tough. Way better than the likes of Hammerite paint for instance. It is great for underbody, sills and suspension components.
As Mike says the key is to make sure you prep the surfaces. clean, de-grease etc..
The other option is to use a simple stone chip or rust inhibitor coating and to apply it on a more regular basis.
With any of these options a shutz type gun is really the only way to get good coverage at a decent cost as the spray cans are expensive.
If you google you will find some long term tests on the various offerings that there are out there.. 'Project Farm' might have done a few iirc.. 1 TR6 Rusting away quietly
1 FARR UTV SOLD
1 International Harvester SOLD
7 x D3 all SOLD
2 x D4 both SOLD
1 x Mrs D4 'Panther' SOLD
1 x Outlander van SOLD
1 continual stream of car parts and me living in the garage...
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| 7th Oct 2020 8:47 am |
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Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1790
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Have a look at Dinitrol, I'd avoid Waxoyl for reasons above
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| 7th Oct 2020 8:57 am |
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axe1
Member Since: 06 Oct 2020
Location: Axminster
Posts: 19
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many thanks for your help and advice guys
yes i will go with raptor, a local chap who works near to me and good with welding has said it will take a good 2 full days to make a proper job of the underside of D4, cleaning all surfaces free of rust and dirt / then treat with rust convertor , then prime with raptor primer, then finally coat with raptor
Cost of £400 for labor
Raptor about £90
then some consumables
I guess its going to be best part of £600 but i feel there is no replacement for the D4 so worth it imo?
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| 7th Oct 2020 9:48 pm |
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LT
Member Since: 31 Dec 2005
Location: South West
Posts: 23876
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There is no direct replacement for the D4. If you intend to keep it for at least another 5 years plus, I’d say it was worth the expense. Not so sure if you think you might get rid of it before then. 2006 D3 HSE (Original & still the best)-GONE
2010 D4 HSE (A bit bling)-GONE
2014 D4 HSE (Almost too bling)-GONE
2015 D4 HSE (A heated what?)-GONE
2016 D4 Landmark (Written Off)-GONE
2016 D4 Landmark (Surely the last!) PD1881 rims-GONE
2017 FFRR SDV8 Autobiography (now semi-retired)
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| 7th Oct 2020 10:48 pm |
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axe1
Member Since: 06 Oct 2020
Location: Axminster
Posts: 19
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yes i hear you, im at the same thinking myself. I think with the depreciation and its such a good vehicle we will keep it, for when massive cargo is required and use the leaf for everything else! One extreme to another
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| 10th Oct 2020 1:56 am |
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pagoda
Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1929
  
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How about using a rust treatment on rust, then painting?
The key to keeping rust away is to wash the underbody frequently. Waxoyl and other non-paint brands could be affected by frequent underbody washes.
My plan has always been to treat rust when I see it using (some stuff that's really pricey but good and which I can't recall the name of) and then overpaint with a rust inhibiting paint. PAGODA
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| 10th Oct 2020 2:27 am |
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