Member Since: 05 Aug 2015
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 509
Precautionary work whilst body is off?
Afternoon all, I am the proud owner of a nearly 13 year old D4 that is booked in to have the crossover pipe replaced in a couple of weeks time (I shall be passing the hat round shortly - notes only please, no coins) and wonder what precautionary work I should consider getting done at the same time?
Already on the list to check are the chassis brake pipes, EGR bypass pipe(s), CSOV actuator and a review of a dry steering column UJ advised by stealer at last service (but not presenting any tell tale indicators when wheel is turned).
Anything else I should realistically be asking them to look at with a view to replacing while the body is off?
Have owned the car for 7 years and would like to be able to hang on to it for another 7 years, or more, if I can by looking after it now.
Cheers.D4 - Stornoway Grey
D2 V8 - Zambesi Silver (rust free JDM import 😎)
FL2 - Sd4 HSE
110 Td5 DCPU - Bonatti Grey - sold
FL2 Td4 - Zambesi Silver - sold
D2 Td5 - Epsom Green - sold
F1 Td4 - Giverney Green - sold
90 300 Tdi - White – sold BIG mistake should have kept it!
F1 Td4 - written off by a taxi!
D1 300 Tdi - written off by a Fiesta...
D1 200 Tdi - sold
90 Turbo Diesel - sold
Ser 2a SWB - sold and glad I 'got rid'
Ser 2 SWB - sold but wish I still had it!
3rd Feb 2024 1:55 pm
Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 345
Replace your brake lines with Cunifer ones. Have a look at the rear AC pipes if you have them.
3rd Feb 2024 2:21 pm
Fireburst
Member Since: 02 Nov 2017
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 195
Hi
I would consider changing the camshaft and fuel pump timing belts, they should be due at 14 years if the first change was done on time at 7 years. Also possibly worth doing the glow plugs and main body/engine earth strap. I have changed all these parts myself and it would have been so much easier with the body off!
Jim
3rd Feb 2024 2:23 pm
NC500
Member Since: 18 Sep 2017
Location: On the NC500
Posts: 549
Deleted
Last edited by NC500 on 3rd Feb 2024 2:27 pm. Edited 1 time in total
3rd Feb 2024 2:24 pm
NC500
Member Since: 18 Sep 2017
Location: On the NC500
Posts: 549
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Possibly also starter motor too
Also protect vehicle body with suitable coating, particularly from rear crossmember to rear bumper and both sills.
Click image to enlarge
3rd Feb 2024 2:26 pm
NC500
Member Since: 18 Sep 2017
Location: On the NC500
Posts: 549
PS
I have a stainless steel crossover pipe that I ordered incorrectly and left it too late to return. If you are interested, I could exchange this for some beer tokens?
Member Since: 05 Aug 2015
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 509
NC500 - thats some list & must have cost a pretty penny to get all done together - have had a fair amount of the stuff on that list done already over the last few years.
Fireburst - it had cam belt & fuel pump belt last year at 7 year anniversary of new engine fitted by LR at 6 years old (realised its actually coming up 14 years old not 13 and I've had it for 8 years!). Engine earth strap is a good call & something I'd mentally thought of but not written down...
Captain Crosscheck - I'll speak to them about what brake pipes they use but good call
Cheers.D4 - Stornoway Grey
D2 V8 - Zambesi Silver (rust free JDM import 😎)
FL2 - Sd4 HSE
110 Td5 DCPU - Bonatti Grey - sold
FL2 Td4 - Zambesi Silver - sold
D2 Td5 - Epsom Green - sold
F1 Td4 - Giverney Green - sold
90 300 Tdi - White – sold BIG mistake should have kept it!
F1 Td4 - written off by a taxi!
D1 300 Tdi - written off by a Fiesta...
D1 200 Tdi - sold
90 Turbo Diesel - sold
Ser 2a SWB - sold and glad I 'got rid'
Ser 2 SWB - sold but wish I still had it!
3rd Feb 2024 5:53 pm
Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 345
Great list from NC500 there! Also, you could have a swatch at the LR Time videos, when they do a body-off on a D3. They cover a good bit of the items on that list
My list based on one published by DM years ago is:-
Front & Rear Belts
Front & Rear Tensioners plus Bolts (In the Kit)
Two Idlers Pulleys Plus Bolts (In the Kit)
Oil Pump Casing
Oil Seal for Crankshaft
Crankshaft Bolt
Consider replacing water pump - flush & replace coolant.
Inspect all brake pipes & replace rear brake lines
Front + rear upper arms
Consider changing intercooler hoses, particularly the 2 small ones with silicon
Turbo actuator rod
Check EPB cables
Autobox filter
Clean in-tank pump gauze
Carefully inspect the wiring for damage, and repair if required
Check rear air conditioning pipes
Check EGRs & turbo & turbo pipes
Check High Pressure Fuel Pump
Clean intercooler & radiator - consider replacing & upgrading intercooler
Check all suspension bushes & shims - takes around 60 seconds with the body off.
Check cross-over pipe at rear of the engine
Check prop shaft & universal joints
Wash chassis & underside of body, rub down and underseal any rust reapply Waxoil or better where necessary.
Remove the turbo, fit new modified actuator rod. Take out the studs and drill the threads out to 8mm. Use 2x M8 flange bolts to refit. This aids future turbo removal massively, and is also much quicker.
Check fuel injectors & glow plugs
If a manual clean XY sensor and consider fitting new clutch (& flywheel) - 1 hours labour as opposed to 6 to 8 hours.
By 100,000 miles expect to have done:-
Wishbones.
Steering tie rods.
ARB bushes.
Ball joints
Steering Column Universal Joints
Suspension bushes, you can get carried away with these. Most common are the rear uppers and front lowers.
Body off makes no difference to front lowers, but the rear uppers are 5 mins a side, as opposed to 2 hours with the body in place. A perfect excuse to upgrade to the RRS arms.
Check the exhaust system, it rarely gives any issues. But, a perfect excuse to consider replacement or upgrade.
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- have had a fair amount of the stuff on that list done already over the last few years.
