Mikec1977 wrote:

Hello everyone!

I bought a 2005 disco 3 2.7 v6 yesterday, the car is a manual and supposedly has recently had a new clutch (no proof...yes I know..) which has a fault...now I'm in trouble with the wife if anyone can offer advice I would be very grateful!

So...

Test drove seemed OK but rocked back and forth slightly/juddered and seemed to struggle going uphill - if I'm honest I just thought I was in the wrong gear, engine was sweet and everything worked so I bought the car.

On the way home an amber 'P' light came on which I think is park brake fault (the parking brake works fine goes on and off no probs and 25 mile journey back wheels didn't get hot so I assume nothing is sticking) The car was awful at low speeds and when accelerating juddery and seemed like it was struggling. There were no noises, no clanging or crunching etc however there is a sort of whirring/droning/spinning that increases with acceleration and isn't there at idle or low revs, if you accelerate very slowly it's OK.  Gear changes were fine and when cruising in 6th it was slightly noticeable but pretty much gone.

I followed some Internet advice and reversed, went through the gears, locked and unlocked the car which reset the light (probs what the seller did before I arrived..) bizarrely this has partly resolved the issue and whist it is still there it is much better but definitely not right.

If you have read this far thankyou! Any advice will be gratefully appreciated.

Mike

 New Defender L663 110 SE (known as Noddy!)

Sold Volvo XC90 R-Design (known as Basil)

Sold - D4 HSE (Known as Gerty)

No longer the Old Buses original owner
231,000 miles and counting
05 S manual owned from March 2005
D4 Face lifted
Still original injectors and turbo
V8 Front brakes
BAS Remap, Allisport Intercooler and deCat
EGRs blanked
T-Max split charge
Hanibal Expeedition rack
Prospeed ladder
Duratrac tyres
IID BT
BAS FBH control 

gstuart wrote:

Hi

Welcome to the asylum

Personally would first ensure the battery is ok, with the engine off should be a min of 12.6 Vdc , ensure ur rear brake lights are all working correctly

Then get it plugged into diagnostics , due to the complexity of these vehicles it’s advantageous to have ur own code reader , plus a basic multimeter , there are a couple of scanners which many of us use

An Autel AP200 there are different colours , white one is the best one to get , there very basic but for around £50 are extremely handy to have in ur glove box

For a more detailed in depth scanner there’s the gap iid, alas there around £420 but will do virtually everything that ur need out of a scanner

Like all faults please always begin with the basics otherwise ur start chasing ur tail and not getting anywhere

Lastly hope u don’t mind me adding but have u ensured the timing belts, oil pump etc have been replaced

Hope that helps a little

nigethecat wrote:

Could be turbo actuator rod sticking giving rise to the sluggish acceleration and potentially an issue with the diff giving the droning noise, but as Gary said, get the codes read and would be a good starting point. Do you have a local LR independent who you could get to give the car a once over and point you in the right direction?

Mikec1977 wrote:

nigethecat wrote:

Could be turbo actuator rod sticking giving rise to the sluggish acceleration and potentially an issue with the diff giving the droning noise, but as Gary said, get the codes read and would be a good starting point. Do you have a local LR independent who you could get to give the car a once over and point you in the right direction?

I think this may be the route I'll have to go down, just looking to see who's around Mansfield way.