Member Since: 13 Apr 2008
Location: Princeton
Posts: 1
Need help with rotor change...
I purchase a set of front and rear replacement rotors. They are the same size as the originals. I got the caliper piston off easily, but am having difficulty getting the carrier off. I noticed the bolt looks to be a 20mm 12pt star shape for the fronts and similar but smaller in the back. Does anyone know what kind of socket I need to get these bolts off? I tried using a 20mm 12pt socket for spark plugs but am scared to strip them since the bolt is very hard to loosen. And if anyone has any better suggests for loosening the bolt than WD40, that would be great!
Thanks.
14th Apr 2008 12:10 am
mobyone
Member Since: 23 Dec 2005
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 394
You will need a good quality TORX set of drivers to get just about all bolts off the LR3..What's the point.... it all comes out in the wash anyway!
85 Range Rover
01 Disco Series II
05 D3 V6SE, Bonatti Grey, 19"alloys
14th Apr 2008 5:33 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
Its a 21mm 12point socket you need. Get a good quality one and a decent breaker bar, because those bolts will be very tight to come out
14th Apr 2008 7:15 am
jzk
Member Since: 15 Mar 2005
Location: Chicago
Posts: 99
I just changed my front Rotors. You need a #50 Torx bit for that star shaped set screw. For the bolts on the remainder of the caliper carrier, I just used a socket that has the star shape inside of it. It was an english socket, and the rest of the bolts were metric.LR3 HSE
http://www.pbase.com/jzk/lr3
When you put your new rotors on,the caliper carrier bolts should have some form of locking fluid applied.
The factory fit have a microencapsulated locking patch, some for of loctite should do.
They can come undone, the L322 carrier is more known for it as it is fitted with BMW spec M12 thread rather than the M14 on larger centers on the T5 platform.
"I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant"
31st Jul 2008 10:38 pm
fakesnake
Member Since: 30 Mar 2006
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 281
Can anyone confirm whether I need Torx bits, star shaped sockets or both to do the disc rotors please. I want to be sure I've got all the kit I need before starting the job. ThanksRichard
5th Sep 2008 9:52 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
To do the job you need:
13mm spanner/socket and ratchet
17mm open ended spanner (front) or 15mm (rear)
21mm double hex socket
Breaker bar or ratchet with something to give extra leverage
Torx 50 bit
Caliper piston wind back tool, or big water pump pliers
And obviously either a toolkit or 22mm socket to get the wheels off
5th Sep 2008 5:45 pm
ronald.soak
Member Since: 29 Apr 2008
Location: London
Posts: 516
Fakesnake, Disco_Mikey and shiny moose have provided good advice.
The 12 point socket is a type known as bihexagonal. This used to be pretty standard and still is for better quality sockets. It is not a Torx or star type, although I also found it difficult to identify before reading advice on the forum and doing it myself.
As Disco-Mikey advised, the bolts are difficult to shift and I needed an extension bar and a wobble joint for one of the 2 bolts.
I clean the remains of the thread locking material off the bolts with a wire brush as otherwise they are just as difficult to put back.
If you do this and use thread locking fluid the bolts go in easily and will be safe. They should be torqued up but I do not have the figure to hand.
3 other points, if you will allow;
It is essential that you do not inadvertantly seperate the two halves of each caliper, by undoing the wrong (smaller bolts)
I believe that the parking brake operates on drums which are integral with the rear discs (rotors). This means that the discs will be difficult / impossible to remove without releasing the parking brake.
10forcash posted a procedure under the topic EPB, 25 Jun 2007, http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic11971.h...p;start=15 should get you close.
A brake wear sensor is fitted to 1 rear pad and will need either replacement, if worn down to the point of indicating, or transfer to the new pad. Details available on this forum
I have to come clean and have to admit that although I have removed calipers and pads I have not yet had to change discs. Nevertheless I hope that you find the above helpful.
Good luck
John
5th Sep 2008 6:31 pm
mobyone
Member Since: 23 Dec 2005
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 394
I stand corrected....
12 point = Double hex and
6 point = TORX
Question is how do you not confuse Double Hex with Spline drive or Triple Square
85 Range Rover
01 Disco Series II
05 D3 V6SE, Bonatti Grey, 19"alloys
8th Sep 2008 9:45 am
ronald.soak
Member Since: 29 Apr 2008
Location: London
Posts: 516
Mobyone,
Practically, it is difficult, particularly in the dark under a vehicle.
The Wiki reference you provided was very interesting. My understanding is that Torx bolts have circular heads with a 6 (or5) pointed star shaped recess. The bolts shown all seem to be examples of types with internal recesses.
The difference between the 12 pointed recesses shown is down to the sharpness of the points: Bihex are at the same angle as a hexagon, ie. 120 degrees, triple square as for a square, 90 degrees and Splines (quadra triangle), 60 degrees.
Torx are not simple double triangle but a more complex concave outline.
The bolts involved on the disco brakes have external points, rather than internal recesses, and are either simple hex, on which you could fit an open ended spanner, or the 12 point double hex which needs a 12 point ring or socket.
Regards
8th Sep 2008 12:40 pm
fakesnake
Member Since: 30 Mar 2006
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 281
Ok, so that's cleared that up thanks very much. Just need a sunny weekend with nothing to do now!Richard
10th Sep 2008 5:05 pm
azeg
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Cologne
Posts: 26
Something in addition, has not been mentioned yet, but is IMO one of the absolutely necessary informations:
the torque tune.
You need a torque -wrench that is capable of handling 270 Nm, this is what the front bolts have to be tightended with.
And it is NO Torx Bit, but a bihexagonal Bit, Size 21 mm.
And you need a manual wrench to losen the screws, an impact-wrench won´t do. (Tried mine with 330 Nm, did not manage to turn the srews).
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