Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
I need help. Car won’t run
Driving home from down west wales car started to develop a misfire every single often but otherwise drove ok. Went to go to Tesco last night and as soon as it got to 2000rpm it goes into limp mode.
Noticed fuel rail pressure sensor reads N/A on the iid tool.
Changed that for a new denso sensor today now the car won’t run. It starts and idles like crap lumpy as hell and throws the full hdc fault system unavailable, transmission fault, special programmes off, parking brake fault at me and has the following codes...
P0193-17 (2F) fuel rail pressure sensor high input - general electrical failure - circuit voltage above threshold.
Other codes are U codes.
Anyone got any ideas ?
I’m stuckJarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
14th Jul 2020 7:36 pm
gearmuncher
Member Since: 30 Oct 2018
Location: Woodley
Posts: 143
check battery/charging voltage.
14th Jul 2020 7:41 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Battery reading 12.1 engine off 14.2 running. Changed the sensor back over and it’s idling ok now. It still reading N/A on the iid tool.Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
14th Jul 2020 7:45 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
Check wiring between the PCM and rail pressure sensor
Had one much the same a few years back, found a broken wire. Repaired, and been fine ever since My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 30 Oct 2018
Location: Woodley
Posts: 143
12.1V sounds a bit low to me, how old is the battery, think you may have multiple faults.
14th Jul 2020 7:51 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Disco_Mikey wrote:
Check wiring between the PCM and rail pressure sensor
Had one much the same a few years back, found a broken wire. Repaired, and been fine ever since
My thoughts too because I swapped injectors for another set and have the fact same readings on the live data.
I swapped the sensor back and the car runs fairly well except for a little miss every so often under load which I think is one of the replacement injectors. I’ll swap them back and try it. Where is the PCM buddy ?
What’s the best a continuity check is it ?Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
14th Jul 2020 8:30 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
gearmuncher wrote:
12.1V sounds a bit low to me, how old is the battery, think you may have multiple faults.
Luckily my dad just bought an exide 019 for his jeep and I’ve pinched that.Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
14th Jul 2020 8:50 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Checked for continuity between the fuel rail pressure sensor and pcm plug, all ok. Bit stumped now. One thing I did notice was the middle and rear injectors on the battery side wires are black/orange and green/red on the middle and then green/orange and black/red on the rear as where all the others traces are the same so why would these be different ?
Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
14th Jul 2020 10:13 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Anyone able to shed some light on this ?Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
15th Jul 2020 6:22 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Just done some road testing with the iid on live data. Nothing obvious shows for injectors or fuel pressure. Under heavy load but the misfire or hesitation it feels like the car loses power for a split second.
I’ve checked for continuity between the fuel rail pressure sensor and the ecu plugs and all was ok even when tugging and moving the harness.
On road test I’ve noticed the exhaust gas temperature sensor reads 100.0c no matter how hard or soft I drive.
Don’t know what to look for next. Totally stumped.Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
16th Jul 2020 9:35 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
I don’t think these have a eg temp sensor
Or the iid is incorrectly programmed
16th Jul 2020 10:14 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Hi Pete.
That explains why I can’t find one for sale then.
Would plugging it into my laptop for an update sort that out ?Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
17th Jul 2020 1:20 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4655
Alternator is kaput
There's no exh temp sensor!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
17th Jul 2020 2:16 am
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Alternator ?
Can I ask as I’m not the best with the electronic side but what made you say alternator ?Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
17th Jul 2020 4:16 am
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
Its a very common fault on these power greedy vehicles i would be looking at the battery voltage when you have the issues.
I would also check the earth wire or run a temp one to the engine and check the power cable from the battery to the starter they have been known to rub through
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