Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5093
There is a procedure for refitting or replacing the tie bar. I'll dig it out of the manual when I get a chance but it's nothing complicated. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
20th Apr 2024 6:52 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5093
It's important the height of the the bottom of the boot rubber is set to 12mm from the frame!
The rod adjustment needs to be done with a (competent) 4 wheel alignment centre, but you can set it approximately until you get to them. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
20th Apr 2024 7:17 pm
itsmywheelhouse
Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
Thank you. Is this not adjustable while fully connected? That is, where you loosen the middle locking nut and put a pliers on the rod just before the boot and rotate clockwise or counterclockwise depending on the desired adjustment direction?
21st Apr 2024 3:29 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5093
Yes. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
21st Apr 2024 12:09 pm
itsmywheelhouse
Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
Alright, sir. Since you've stuck patiently by throughout this whole diagnosis process, I'll update. With both wheels up off the ground I can see the position of that knuckle is "skewed" about the same as the one I just reinstalled.
As for the tie rod? I wish that was the culprit. But the real issue here, and the cause of the tire wear, is the wheel bearing. It is absolutely toasted in there. I'm not sure if it's possible, but the two metal "nuggets" stuck inside the drum assembly look an awful lot like maimed bearing rollers. Anyway, the excess movement became super clear after I got the knuckle back in place and bolted on.
I think there's a YouTube video I can reference for the job. Would you recommend a new hub and bearing, or is just the bearing enough?
22nd Apr 2024 2:36 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5093
Just the bearing, the knuckle is fine. I'm surprised you didn't notice what must have been an incredible racket coming from that wheel for a very long time.
Anyway, you'll need the wheel back on to crack the hub nut. Then remove everything until you're down to the bare knuckle and backplate. Sometimes the drive shaft can be seized inside the hub and if that's the case you'll need a large hydraulic puller to push the shaft back. Once off a 30 ton press will push out the bearing shell and the backplate looks good enough to reuse.
Do not strike the drive shaft end with anything or you'll destroy (crush) the threads. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
22nd Apr 2024 11:38 am
itsmywheelhouse
Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
I didn't notice because I wasn't able to test drive before buying it as the EAS was on bump stops and I had it delivered. Previous owner neglected to mention the obvious, that the wheel bearing was toast, before the sale. I take full responsibility for buying, but there's no way he didn't know what was going on back there.
Thanks again. I'll dig into it when I have ample time.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
