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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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Hi Lee, to avoid system incompatibility problems with the higher currents possible with the 25mm2, I would go with the 16mm2 and this will not cause that much of a difference when charging the trailer batteries but the smaller cable will act as a current regulator.
You only need to fit 50 amp circuit breakers and I personally prefer USA made Cole Hersee solenoids and circuit breakers.
Cheers Lee and take lots of pics. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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 7th Apr 2009 3:19 pm |
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Ent
Member Since: 12 Oct 2007
Location: In the cack
Posts: 6485
  
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Cheers Tim
I'll have a bit of time tomorrow to look at running the cable along the chassis rail, have you done it? I'll take quite a few photos as the install goes on. Club Exped trailer
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| 7th Apr 2009 3:56 pm |
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discocuzzy
Member Since: 02 Feb 2008
Location: surrey
Posts: 2752
 
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[quote="Ent"]Paul
I do have a very very limited knowledge
No S  t
Pair of flange couplings and a sky hook is all you need mate  "you cannot teach stupid people to do clever things"
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11 Plate D4 Landmark in Fuji white- Gone
08 Plate D3 Hse in Buckingham Blue- Gone
58 plate D3 HSE Silver- Gone
10 Plate D4 HSE Stornaway Grey
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| 7th Apr 2009 9:37 pm |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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I have not done it but there have been a few threads on it so if I can find a posting on it I’ll send you a link.
Not sure what you might call it over there but we have flooding board called Tongue and Grove and the tongue is a plastic strip.
This plastic strip makes for the perfect tool to push through the chassis rail and then fix the cable to it and pull the cable through to the rear. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 7th Apr 2009 11:15 pm |
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Iona Disko
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: NE
Posts: 286
 
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Hi Ent... I once had the exact same problem as you. It was for a bright orange trailer as I recall. And this is what I did...
I had a Red top for the car
A yellow top as an aux
two bid lead acids set aside for the trailer.
I ran a pair of large cables to the rear Anderson (175A) connector. 25mm sq. dia.
One was earthed to main battery and other connected to a secondary split charge relay and onto the yelolow top positive.
I am able to control the second split charge relay independently of the Rock Solid Technologies split charge system. I get a voltage readout of each battery through the system and can decide manually whether to charge the trailer or not. It also means (CRITICALLY) that I only have a heavy guauge live cable running to the rear of the vehilce when necessary. It can be isolated when not in use.
CABLE ROUTING
Best route for cable I found was two small holes (just the right size) in the recess where your standard towing electrics are. 175A anderson fits in and can be covered when not in use by normal plastice trim (think you've seen mine?) You'll get one cable through each hole and this naturally leads the cables round either side of the spare well (drop spare for better access) then route down the driver's side to engine bay - I managed to tuck the cables right up higher than chasis and they are not noticeable and have no chance of being damaged off road. Then up into the engine bay. Your bay will be slightly different to mine but I do recall it being tricky to avoid moving parts and high temp areas. Leave plenty of slack to get the routing right. I then entered the yellow-top battery box via the obvious hole at the front, top right (iof that makes sense?)
My positive cable was protected by a "mega fuse" can't remember rating - somewhere around 200A. Located around 6 inces from battery box. Everything bar the last run to the rear of the vehicle I had on 35mm welding type cable. or winch cable as the 4x4 places would sell it to you as - copper of course.
Something mentioned already... you have a yellow top already. This is what will supply the bulk of the current (not an inrush current) but similar when you add the load of a drained battery charging - the alternator will experieince a share of the load but you would struggle to produce a current sufficient to start knocking out electronic systems. A low voltage won't cause damage, you might just find yourself having to restart the engine to clear the odd fault.
Dropping a pair of 220Ah batteries to 9V and then charging at 15V will produce less current draw than charging a single yellow top with a voltage of just 3V - something I've done just this morning with no ill effect.
When you are all sorted a nice trick is to have a set of jump leads and a 12v compressor all wired with Anderson connectors so you need not pop the bonnet to give someone a jump or to fan the ailing fire in a remote bothie. _____________
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| 8th Apr 2009 12:06 am |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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Iona Disko wrote:A low voltage won't cause damage, you might just find yourself having to restart the engine to clear the odd fault.
Hi Iona Disko, this is the very reason I suggested using the thinner cable.
While it won’t recharge the batteries as quickly, this in itself is only a problem if you regularly take them down to a very low state, but if you are only wanting to replace the stored capacity used for a weekend away, your wouldn’t notice the difference and you wouldn’t get the faults coming up.
With 16mm2 cable you would only need to use 50 amp circuit breakers and 50 amp anderson plugs because you would rarely exceed 50 amps loads to the trailer batteries. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 9th Apr 2009 11:03 am |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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It doesn't take much to confuse me, but I am confused.... 
As I now have Ent's old trailer, I'm going to put a battery in (probably a single 110Ah) I want a cable to go from my SC-80 FPC connector at the back of the D3, to connect to the trailer and charge the battery up when it's connected and towing.
I'm confused on the cable sizes......
According to http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...dcable.php
then 7mmsq cable would be fine for up to 50amps.
But Tim, you've said 16mmsq which (according to the same site) would be good for 110amps. The connector at the back of the D3 is a 50amp anderson connector.
So what cable do I need to connect from that to the trailer battery? 7mmsq or 16mmsq?
Will it get too hot? ISTR that the rear connection is protected by a 50Amp thermal breaker?
Help Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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| 20th Apr 2009 5:09 pm |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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G’day Bodsy, it’s 16mm2 or 6B&S ( 13.5mm2 ) which ever cable is available.
It’s not the current carrying capacity that is required but the thicker cable means a higher voltage at you rear battery and this in turn means the battery will be able to pull more current and charge quicker.
As to the actual current, it is highly unlikely that you will ever draw more than about 30 to 35 amps by your battery and you can add to this what ever current your fridge will draw.
So you are not likely to get near the 50 amp continuos operating current of your Anderson plugs or the normal operating current of you Circuit Breaker and your existing system you installed in your D3 is already designed to operate with continuos current loads of up to 50 amps with out and problems.
If you do use thinner cable, you must install lower current circuit breakers.
Cheers. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 20th Apr 2009 10:13 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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Thanks Tim, I'll get the 6BS cable. Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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| 20th Apr 2009 11:31 pm |
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TallPaul
Member Since: 03 Jan 2008
Location: Near Reading
Posts: 1214
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Thats the advantage of being so far behind the curve bodsy with installing a split charge system, I can learn from all your mistakes? 
Has anyone run a cable through the chassis rail? I like the idea but I can see the need for protective fittings at the entry exit, and the downside is its not clear what spurs or burrs may be inside the chassis rail waiting for your cable.
I also have the headache that my single bulkhead hole has now been filled with my split charge wiring, and I have a clutch cylinder hose where all you auto boys have an empty grommit 
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| 23rd Apr 2009 3:13 pm |
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Discoeast
Member Since: 19 Feb 2008
Location: Boksburg
Posts: 800
 
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There is a grommet under the drivers seat I have used for other
electrics, applied some sealer and had no leaks so far. D3 bullbar-spots-roof rack with spots-ladder-long range tank-swing out spare wheel carrier- upgraded tow bar-dash console-internal water tank-duel awnings-drawer system & T T.
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| 23rd Apr 2009 4:49 pm |
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TallPaul
Member Since: 03 Jan 2008
Location: Near Reading
Posts: 1214
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thanks for top tip!
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| 23rd Apr 2009 6:19 pm |
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