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landyrow
Member Since: 16 Jul 2024
Location: Klagenfurt
Posts: 4
  
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| Left front Door superlocked and stuck |
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Hello, this time I'm so desperate that I even post 
While sitting in the car I locked it on the inside and then pressed the lock button on the key ... Superlock?
Then I had the issue that it does not unlock anymore, not from the inside, not from the outside, not with the key on the hidden underneath plastic cover... and the lock mechanism inside has this hard spring feeling... 
Any suggestions how I can ever open the door again? without destroying my vehicle completely?
All the best?
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 22nd Jul 2024 3:09 pm |
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Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 406
 
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At times like that I would try a hard reset. Disconnect the battery, leave it for 20 minutes, touch the two battery leads together, then connect it all up again. It can't do any harm, but might... just might, re-set whatever ECU has thrown a wobbly. Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
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| 22nd Jul 2024 3:22 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6308
 
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Its a pain to do with the door shut. But can be done, remove the door panel, what I found the easiest way to get it open was, through the window winder mechanism panel { has to be moved out of the way} to get hold the door lock and pull it upwards and twist it, get it to break, this always unlocked the door to open it.
It needs a new lock anyway and this one has the two cables attached to it.
Flack 
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| 23rd Jul 2024 7:58 am |
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landyrow
Member Since: 16 Jul 2024
Location: Klagenfurt
Posts: 4
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| Sometimes a lot of tools are needed |
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Hi, thanks
Tools needed:
Endoscopic camera
2mm steel wire 1m
double cup window holder
old door closing mechanism
all tools which needed for removing the lock
metal ruler 50cm
I ended up removing the window by ripping/separating the door panel as much as I could from the metal door. This gave me some space to insert the endoscopic camera to look to the window holding mechanism. I lowered the window for 15cm and from the outside I slided down the metal ruler until the clip which keeps the window in place was bend outward. This can only be done with a metal ruler  ... BTW I heard that this piece of metal is used to open cars.
I put the suction cups on the window and slid the front holder out of position. Same applied to the rear one, only a little trickier. Whenever you think you have patience, then you will be challenged. After doing so I tilted the window a little to slide it out. Now I had free sight, at least with the endoscopic camera to the lock.
The question was, how, where and what to address to manually open the lock. I was lucky that I had an old one laying around. I had to play around about 30min to find out that there is somewhat of an emergency unlock which I could engage. It was time to bend and modifiy the wire so that it exactly by sliding it in from the top it works its way to this
position. I can tell you another story about patience here. Fortunately the guesswork was minimized by having the camera in position and knowing all times where I am and which direction I had to change.
Not to mention how many times I almost made it  . But finally as the lock unlatched I was stunned not to use the plasma cutter or drill holes in the door to open it up.
What I have to say:
Take a full evening, be in your middle where nothing can aggravate you, whilst consuming a big mug of patience before starting that project. I was once in a state to just sell the car since it brought me into a deep state of desperation with cascaded failure events. Anyways but after it was all sorted out the disco 3 is a grateful car and pays back whatever you put in.
All the best and you where a great assistence
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| 10th Oct 2024 9:37 am |
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