Member Since: 28 Feb 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 301
True, but I couldn't find a schematic of a right hand drive MY16 car to show which cable/connector to cut into. Had to rely on wiring colours to select the right one (blue/black).
This picture shows the wiring and connectors on the right hand side outside panel, under carpet, adjacent to driver's door.
31st Jan 2020 9:26 am
NC500
Member Since: 18 Sep 2017
Location: On the NC500
Posts: 549
When I wired mine (MY14.5 with Bi xenons) I had to use the canbus to pick up the trigger feed to activate the high beam. I didn’t want to splice into the canbus loom so I used one of these:
The instructions that come with the canm8 unit were not correct though. It identified the incorrect wire to affix the contactless reader but it didn’t take too much brain power to figure out the correct one.
That was almost 2 years ago now so they may have rectified the instructions!
31st Jan 2020 10:16 am
Ceekay
Member Since: 17 May 2009
Location: Bury
Posts: 2089
Is it possible to have them both working on the cars high beam and switched separately for permanently switched on without the disco’s fitted high beam on as such if that makes any sense D4 HSE Lux MY16 Club Waitomo
D3 HSE MY06 missing her still…
31st Jan 2020 12:34 pm
Avalon
Member Since: 01 Apr 2013
Location: Bavaria
Posts: 83
Quote:
Is it possible to have them both working on the cars high beam and switched separately for permanently switched on without the disco’s fitted high beam on as such if that makes any sense
Yes, that is possible - just depends on the circuit / electronics used. My setup works the way you want it and has the following possibilities:
- high beam only (Lazer lamps off)
- high beam and Lazer lamps working together
- manually activate the Lazer lamps - just hold the switch for 5 seconds.Disco4 V6 SC HSE (MY2014)
31st Jan 2020 4:13 pm
Ceekay
Member Since: 17 May 2009
Location: Bury
Posts: 2089
Sounds perfect when I get around to installing mine hopefully in the spring I shall be in touch for some help D4 HSE Lux MY16 Club Waitomo
D3 HSE MY06 missing her still…
31st Jan 2020 5:13 pm
Bertie15
Member Since: 22 Dec 2017
Location: Perthshire
Posts: 30
A brief guide to wiring
My vehicle is a MY14 with the bixenon headlights, which use an impulse signal transmitted through the CANbus for switching between high and low beam. There is no permanent high signal when in full beam like on earlier D3 & D4s. As such we require a Canm8 Cannect Highbeam unit, as below. This is available from Lazer Lamps website, but I found it cheaper elsewhere so shop around.
I will assume that you have managed to physically install the lights into your grill, connected up the wiring harness directly to the battery leaving just the red signal wire in the black protective sheath to be connected. The Lazer Lamps website, video and instructions make it pretty clear up to this point.
I managed to fit the relay inside the battery box on the inboard side of the battery which was quite a neat and pleasing solution albeit a tight fit.
You will need to feed the signal wire across the engine bay inside the plastic conduit above the back of the engine just beneath the scuttle, until you get it to the second battery box on the driver's side like so.
Now working from inside the vehicle, I removed the cover beneath the steering wheel (the one with the little vent in it) and the cover in the footwell above the pedals in order to access the OBD port.
Unclip the OBD port from the frame it sits in so that you can pull it through the top to give you more room to work on it.
The wiring instructions for the Canm8 Highbeam are available from the downloads tab beneath the photo of the unit on this page of the Lazer website: https://www.lazerlamps.com/canm8-highbeam
They are well worth reading in conjunction with this guide.
Click image to enlarge
The two wires we are looking for on the OBD port are CAN Hi which is pin 3 and CAN lo which is pin 13. They are twisted together; yellow/white and yellow/blue wires respectively.
If you carefully lift the little flaps on the side of the plug and then push a very small screw driver into the bottom of the plug you can actually release the pins from the OBD plug.
This then allows you to solder tag the Canm8 wires to the CAN pins without cutting any of your CAN wires, which understandably is a concern for many people. Should you want to remove the Canm8 in the future, then this way of wiring is completely reversible as with a little heat from the soldering iron the two will separate again. The best thing though it that it saves spending a further £60 on a contactless CAN reader (available on Lazer website if you really want it).
If you have been neat with your soldering then the pins with the newly soldered Canm8 wires should click straight back into the plug. Make sure they go back into the correct slots!
I have previously made the permanent live 12V outlet modification to my car, so I used the right hand cigarette lighter socket as the source of my permanent 12V supply. Very simple to run a wire from the back of it with a 5A inline fuse to the red wire of the Canm8 harness.
For the black wire 'chassis ground' I used one of the bolts on the metal housing above the ODB port. If you look closely you will see the wire in the photo below.
All that is left is to bring the red 'signal' wire through from the engine bay and connect it up to the purple wire of the Canm8. I used the grommet which the steering linkage passes through because my hands are too big to reach any other!
Make sure your Canm8 LED is green and give your left hand stalk a quick tug and voila 8)
Warning: do not look directly at the lights to see how bright they are!
Dipped:
Full beam with Triple-R 750s (I have aimed mine quite low otherwise the glare from road signs is pretty savage)
Hope this guide is of some use to someone, someday.
The integration kit from Lazer with the twin Triple-R 750s, plus the need to then buy the Canm8 Highbeam makes for a seriously pricey set-up, but they are just awesome! I think everyone who has fitted them will agree the price is justified.
15th Feb 2020 8:27 pm
Avalon
Member Since: 01 Apr 2013
Location: Bavaria
Posts: 83
Quote:
My vehicle is a MY14 with the bixenon headlights, which use an impulse signal transmitted through the CANbus for switching between high and low beam. There is no permanent high signal when in full beam like on earlier D3 & D4s.
I am wondering where this information comes from ?
I myself have a MY14 with bixenon and it has an analog signal for the high beam which I tapped into to trigger my pair of Elite 750 using the kit from OEM Plus which is also compatible with newer models.
If you look at the schematic of a MY14 you will see the following related signals from the CJB:
C0580-3: FET RH main beam
C0586L-17: FET LH main beam
I have placed the corresponding sheet in my gallery (Thanks to DGARDEL):
Click image to enlarge
Disco4 V6 SC HSE (MY2014)
15th Feb 2020 9:42 pm
Bogwert
Member Since: 26 Feb 2019
Location: Dundee
Posts: 28
Thought I would throw in my two cents for fitting a set of Lazer Triple R's!
Discovery 4.5 HSE MY14 - however I believe the wiring loom would be the same.. ish!
So as per the instructions - fit the lights into the grill using the guides and brackets provided.
I used the stop/start battery for the 12v supply as it was the same side as the grommet I found at the back of the engine bay.
Thread the purple and green wires through and then with the appropriate amount of swearing and luck they should feed into the back of the drivers foot well... Like so!
(I found adding a wee block of wood to hold the sound deadening off the bulkhead allowed enough space for gravity to do the work)
Then for the controversial splice! Spent hours (until it was dark and then the next morning) trying to understand where was best to splice the system for the high beam - turns out its dead simple.
Remove the panel at the right of the drivers footwell.
Locate the middle connector and unwrap some of the black binding tape.
Cut the blue/black wire (RH full beam), splice the purple into the system!
Easy!
I then added the switch into the system by popping out the light switch and drilling an 18mm hole though.
I would have preferred it to be over to the left more, however there is a circuit board behind.
Sit back and marvel at how you managed to fit that without destroying your Land Rover!
Or act like a big kid and show off your new 'only £60' toy to the better half.
Shame that 0 fell off the end when she asked how much there were.
Chris
Member Since: 01 Feb 2010
Location: scotland
Posts: 5
Bogwert
That's pretty much the same way as i fitted mine. But I ran a positive from the main battery to the driver side aux battery box and fitted the relay there.
I took the highbeam signal as per Bogwert, through a switch and back through the grommet in to the Aux battery box where the relay etc is located.
The Triple-R 750 Elite are bigger than i thought and the light out of them is great.
11th Dec 2020 9:53 am
Slangen
Member Since: 03 Aug 2014
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 9
Hi
I did a test installation of a Led light bar on my 2015 D4 (that has halogen lights) using the blue/black cable on RH driving lights as a trigger. It works but when measuring the cable it has a connstant 1.4V when high beams are off. Is this a problem?
ON
14th Feb 2021 4:22 am
mjom89
Member Since: 13 Sep 2011
Location: Essex
Posts: 595
NC500 wrote:
When I wired mine (MY14.5 with Bi xenons) I had to use the canbus to pick up the trigger feed to activate the high beam. I didn’t want to splice into the canbus loom so I used one of these:
I have one of these sitting in the workshop waiting to be fitted. Can I please ask where you picked up the CANBUS? Did you still use the contactless reader behind the OBD port or did you get it from elsewhere?
I am hoping to keep my whole setup in the box with the second battery in.
25th Feb 2021 8:48 pm
notyalc
Member Since: 07 Mar 2020
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 75
You need to go to the ODB port to get a good signal.
There is a grommet in behind the brake servo that you can get through, then tun the cable across to the battery box.
Plenty of room in there for the relay.
26th Feb 2021 6:21 pm
mjom89
Member Since: 13 Sep 2011
Location: Essex
Posts: 595
Thank you. I’ve got my relay setup in the second battery box already and have a trigger wire going through the grommet you mentioned so I’m most of the way there! I’ll get the reader setup on the OBD port
26th Feb 2021 7:36 pm
nickhodgson
Member Since: 23 Jul 2020
Location: Lusaka
Posts: 25
Avalon wrote:
I have just added some pictures taken while mounting my Tripple R-750 Elite 2 Lazer lamps earlier this year on my MY14 using a kit supplied by OEM Plus (https://oem-plus-webshop.de/) from Germany:
The kit includes mounting brackets, an electronic relay, switch, cable loom, etc.
It does require tapping into the main beam signal and provides full control of ther spot lamps:
- Lamps enabled together with full beam
- Lamps switched independantly
- Lamps off
Hope this helps you finding a solution for your set-up.
Greetings,
Olaf
Has anyone ordered this kit from Germany since Brexit or is there a UK supplier who has the OEM Plus metal mounting brackets? Any complications with customs and taxes?
4th Mar 2021 4:05 pm
NikBrown27
Member Since: 09 Feb 2021
Location: Earls Colne
Posts: 175
Looks amazing!
NC500 wrote:
Gary- I see you have the bi xenon lights. How are your Lazer spots wired up?
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