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AzzaD
Member Since: 20 Nov 2013
Location: London
Posts: 83
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ianm27 wrote:AzzaD wrote:didn't realise that - the spare is just a space saver wheel & tyre ? Not another alloy full size wheel
so not worth nicking in any way ?
The will still try and steal it, then realise its only a space saver but by then they will have ruined the winch which you will then need to replace.
The detachable tow bar should be fine for a bike rack
As she is a HSE I would imagine it already has the tow bar electrics enabled. If you know a friendly electrician he can test if there is power to the plug.
Penny dropped now, understood.
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20th May 2019 2:34 pm |
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AzzaD
Member Since: 20 Nov 2013
Location: London
Posts: 83
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Scott #55 wrote:+1 for the spare wheel protector - look on here for RLD. As has been said, the scrotes do not know it's a space saver when they cut the winch to release the wheel.
Don't leave the detachable towbar on the car or the scrotes will also relieve you of that.
You ought to look into a full-size spare if you can afford it - the Disco is a big beast and I wouldn't like to be running on a space saver for any longer than absolutely essential.
If you have a lighting board for an existing bike rack, plugging that in will let you know. If not, a trip to a stealer might let you find one in a good mood who can check it. Just let them think they'll get the gig to activate if it's not live already.
Cheers, a Full size spare, won't that hit ramps etc ?
The Thule bike rack has an inbuilt light board, so have all the connectors etc. Are the tow bar electrics pre-installed as standard on the car ?
If they are that's impressive
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20th May 2019 2:40 pm |
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Scott #55
Member Since: 15 Apr 2015
Location: UK
Posts: 1683
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The full-size spare (on mine, anyway), only sits about 2-3" proud of the housing and is well clear of the road. There are lots of other bits under the car that would hit a ramp first.... I've never heard of any issues.
Get a coin or screwdriver, remove the panel on the back bumper (do it carefully as the grommets which hold the cover on can be fickle) and see if your board fits the connection. I don't know if they are activated as standard across all models, but think that might be the case for the HSE spec.
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20th May 2019 2:54 pm |
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ianm27
Member Since: 02 Jun 2016
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 2154
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The Uncle Ray (RLD) spare wheel protector is from a forum member and is easy to fit and great for peace of mind; I have one fitted:
https://www.disco4.com/forum/spare-wheel-protector-31159.html
The full sized spare won't hit ramps, it does fit up quite snuggly underneath the car.
+1 for not leaving the detachable tow bar in-situ, the will steal it! When not on the car the detachable tow bar sits in a holder in the nearside interior cubby hole.
Yes, the tow bar electrics are pre-installed and the Thule connector should fit without any problems. Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
Limo Tint
Blackvue front & rear dashcam
Cruise control switch pack
Bodsy's remote for FBH
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20th May 2019 2:56 pm |
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ronp
Member Since: 29 Nov 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 15265
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AzzaD wrote:Kelvo wrote:This is the only way I know to get Apple CarPlay on the factory screen https://www.naviplus.com.au/online-store/L...-p96658106
wow ! How much !!
1200 AU$, or GBP 642.
I don't love Apple Car play that much
Is that not $1 200 [therefore 200 Australian dollars]?
Tried to set up Carplay today and disappointingly Land Rover are one of the few manufacturers that don't support it !!! ...... always on the road less travelled 🚧
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20th May 2019 4:37 pm |
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Andym01207
Member Since: 01 Mar 2012
Location: County Durham
Posts: 412
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Re: Just bought a D4 :) and need some advice on bits for it |
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AzzaD wrote:so I bought this from here :
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/sale-2014-6...80984.html
and am after some bits for it, so thought I'd ask the collective experts here what's good / bad / avoid
*already got my name down for the cubby fridge group buy
*Roof bars (so I can put the Thule bike racks on) - there are loads of aftermarket ones on Fleabay, quite like the look of the Thule Wingbar, but have only ever had LR OEM before. What's recommended ?
*Detachable tow bar (this will be ok to put a bike rack on ?)
*Tow bar Single Electrics (only ever taking a bike rack on the car)
*Apple Carplay - had this in my D2, loved it, is there a way to get Apple Carplay with the OEM display / head unit in the D4 ? As it's quite good and I'd rather not replace it.
Do you need the full length roof rails for a roofbox ?
Already bought the faraday cage pouches for the keyfobs, is there any other security that is recommended ?[/list]
Mine is for sale and if it sells this week I will have official LR roofbars (with keys and storage bag) and detachable towbar (with keys) for sale
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20th May 2019 4:37 pm |
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AzzaD
Member Since: 20 Nov 2013
Location: London
Posts: 83
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Andy, PM sent.
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20th May 2019 6:42 pm |
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AzzaD
Member Since: 20 Nov 2013
Location: London
Posts: 83
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ronp wrote:AzzaD wrote:Kelvo wrote:This is the only way I know to get Apple CarPlay on the factory screen https://www.naviplus.com.au/online-store/L...-p96658106
wow ! How much !!
1200 AU$, or GBP 642.
I don't love Apple Car play that much
Is that not $1 200 [therefore 200 Australian dollars]?
Tried to set up Carplay today and disappointingly Land Rover are one of the few manufacturers that don't support it !!!
just taken that site through to checkout - definitely AU$1200, the weird spacing makes you think its 1 for 200, but no. With international postage its AU$ 1274.
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20th May 2019 6:48 pm |
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Pedros
Member Since: 25 Jun 2011
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 454
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I expect you actually do have a full sized spare wheel, but it'll not in all probability be an alloy but pressed steel jobbie. That's what's with my 2010MY.
Yes, the removable tow bar should be more than enough for a bike rack. The removable tow bar is good for most jobs, although if you are towing lots and/or heavy trailers, it's best to get a permanent one. If you haven't got one, keep a look out on here or ebay.
To check if the electrics are enabled, simply plug in a trailer and check if the lights work on it. Mine were enabled, although enabling the towing electrics should mute the proximity alarm when reversing (because otherwise the car thinks the trailer is something you are about to bump into) but it doesn't on mine. But that's not the end of the world, you can always push the button on the dash for the amount of times you are likely to be reversing with a trailer on.
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26th May 2019 9:41 pm |
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Kelvo
Member Since: 07 Aug 2015
Location: Perth WA
Posts: 264
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Pedros wrote:Mine were enabled, although enabling the towing electrics should mute the proximity alarm when reversing (because otherwise the car thinks the trailer is something you are about to bump into) but it doesn't on mine.
If your trailer has LED lights the D4 will not recognise that a trailer is attached. The D4 is looking for a 6-7ohm resistance (IE a 21 watt incandescent globe).
I’ve wired two 6.8ohm resistors via a switch into the towing indicator circuit. If I use a trailer with LED lights I switch the switch so the resistors are then seen by the D4. No more reverse sensors, rear D4 fog lights, Terrain Response will not automatically select a raised height (You can do this manually with the suspension buttons) and the green trailer symbol will now flash when indicating. MY14 TDV6
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26th May 2019 10:56 pm |
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denny crane
Member Since: 29 Mar 2008
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 147
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Land Rover Roof bars are Thule units anyway.
What I have done, is bought the feet and aero bars from EBay, then just bought the fitting kit (around £39)
I then can use the same bars on a multitude of cars, from Skoda Octavia estate, Discovery, Mitsubishi Outlander, Ford S max.
Only difference is the fitting kit in the feet.
Another big thumbs up for the Spare wheel protector.
The other thing I did after advice from the sister site RRS, is that I have used a special Torx screws to replace the screws in the rear light clusters and to screw the number Plates on. Not sure it’s an issue for discoveries?
Finally, led interior lights, mostly W5Ws for better visibility. Many use cheaper bulbs, but after 3 years in the Sport without any failures, I stick to Osrams.
I also replaced the rear number plate lamps with led units from Powerful UK, again,m3 years and still bright Owner of a 2010 Discovery 4 XS.
Plus a Mitsubishi Outlander (don’t ask...)
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27th May 2019 8:54 am |
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AzzaD
Member Since: 20 Nov 2013
Location: London
Posts: 83
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Pedros wrote:I expect you actually do have a full sized spare wheel, but it'll not in all probability be an alloy but pressed steel jobbie. That's what's with my 2010MY.
Yes, the removable tow bar should be more than enough for a bike rack. The removable tow bar is good for most jobs, although if you are towing lots and/or heavy trailers, it's best to get a permanent one. If you haven't got one, keep a look out on here or ebay.
To check if the electrics are enabled, simply plug in a trailer and check if the lights work on it. Mine were enabled, although enabling the towing electrics should mute the proximity alarm when reversing (because otherwise the car thinks the trailer is something you are about to bump into) but it doesn't on mine. But that's not the end of the world, you can always push the button on the dash for the amount of times you are likely to be reversing with a trailer on.
sometimes the simplest things pass us by, I never thought to check the spare to see if its a space saver - did buyers have the choice to spec a full size wheel over a space saver ?
Will check the electrics too - thanks.
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27th May 2019 11:23 am |
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AzzaD
Member Since: 20 Nov 2013
Location: London
Posts: 83
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denny crane wrote:Land Rover Roof bars are Thule units anyway.
What I have done, is bought the feet and aero bars from EBay, then just bought the fitting kit (around £39)
I then can use the same bars on a multitude of cars, from Skoda Octavia estate, Discovery, Mitsubishi Outlander, Ford S max.
Only difference is the fitting kit in the feet.
Another big thumbs up for the Spare wheel protector.
The other thing I did after advice from the sister site RRS, is that I have used a special Torx screws to replace the screws in the rear light clusters and to screw the number Plates on. Not sure it’s an issue for discoveries?
Finally, led interior lights, mostly W5Ws for better visibility. Many use cheaper bulbs, but after 3 years in the Sport without any failures, I stick to Osrams.
I also replaced the rear number plate lamps with led units from Powerful UK, again,m3 years and still bright
I did look at Thule roof bars, particularly the Thule WingBar Edge Black https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thule-WingBar-E...3025440425 and thought they look remarkably similar and can carry more weight over OEM. Compared to the roof bars on my D2, the loadable width of the D4 bars doesn't look as wide so unlikely I'll get as much up there. The D2 OEM LR roof box was a monster - 460 litres and massive.
Will take a look at the aero roof bars. All I'll stick on the roof, is 1-2 mtb's and very rarely a small roof box.
There are so many roof bars for sale, "genuine" OEM new & used, some black and some silver & black and aftermarket Chinese copies, Thule and more....
I'll take a look at the LED interior lights, but TBH so far the entire car has been a revelation just as it is, from our late D2. (apart from the stereo, as I had fitted a PIoneer AVH-Z7100DAB DAB with carplay in the D2, which was an absolutely fantastic bit of kit.)
Will google on here re torx screws for the light clusters, not heard of that so far.
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27th May 2019 2:51 pm |
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AzzaD
Member Since: 20 Nov 2013
Location: London
Posts: 83
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Scott #55 wrote:You might find that the towbar electrics are enabled already. My MY 2010 HSE has them active, and I don't think that the previous owners did it.
went to fit the detacheble tow bar today and removed the cover for the towing electrics and nada, absolutely no electrics. Clearly not every HSE has the towing electrics as standard.
Wanted post about to go up here.
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15th Jun 2019 8:52 pm |
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